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  #241  
Old 08-21-2014, 09:38 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Looks very good!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #242  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:07 PM
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Big breakthru today but not picture-worthy:

My buddy Dick (5.0 Ford-powered Volvo station wagon) came over and we set to bleeding the brakes and my kluged S-10/Mercedes clutch set-up.

The brakes were pretty straightforward as expected. Even after breaking the lines to switch from the power master cylinder to the manual cylinder I still had a decent pedal even before bleeding. So they came out great.

The clutch hydraulics were, of course, a different story. I had tried back bleeding (pushing fluid from the slave to the master under pressure), vacuum bleeding (sucking fluid from the master to the slave) and even gravity bleeding (leaving the bleed screw open for long periods so that the fluid could find it's way out the bleeder) all to no avail. Being all alone I couldn't try the old "pump - hold - release" method until I Shanghai'd Dick. While he had never done this type of stuff before he was a quick study and after about 10 refills of the master (the S-10 master has a very small capacity) WE GOT IT!!!!! Great feel, nice pedal travel, and about 1 to 1 1/2" of freeplay at the top. So the S-10 master seems to be compatible with the M-B slave - something to keep in mind for all you guys considering a manual trans swap. That Benz master set-up doesn't look like a good system to me.

I'm not too far from firing this devil up and hearing it run. Mostly I need to add all the fluids and see what stays in. Also need to fill and purge the air out of the fuel which I hope will be pretty easy as the tank is right up front and the lines are really short. I also need to have the battery load tested and see if there's anything left of it or if I'll need a new one.

Getting Closer. I'm a happy guy!

Dan
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  #243  
Old 09-09-2014, 11:02 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
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Bodywork. For those not familiar - YES, you CAN do it.

1) There were dents on both sides of the bed (no clue why). This one was not TOO bad. The stud gun pulled it right out. Here it's ready for the first block sanding to flatten it.

2) Same dent, other side. In filler and ready for sanding.

3) I found a dent in the tailgate (maybe a trailer hitch SNAFU?) and it's been a stinker to pull. I used the stud gun which helped but I finally drilled a hole in the inner panel and used a punch from the back to get it close to the right shape.

4) The bed rails had about 1K holes in them, some from the screwed-down tonneau cover and some from maybe a camper top or some such that was fitted at some point. I welded them in, ground the welds, set the welds below the surface (I use the ball end of a ball pein hammer and smack it with my copper hammer), followed by filler and lots of straight line sanding (see last pic for the sander). So now they're nice and flat and here are in primer as I take out the final scratches, etc.

5) Tailgate in filler. Note that it's all sanded up and ready for primer. The truck had had stripes of flat black rattle-can painted all around the truck and I've been sanding all of that off (180 grit on a DA sander) as I don't trust it as an underlayment to real paint.


I should mention: So far pretty much everything I've done could be done without a compressor though I do have one. The DA (dual action sander) is available in an electric model and some are fairly cheap. The straight line sanding can be done by hand and a manual holder for straight line paper is pretty cheap. Most auto parts stores have adhesive-backed straight line paper that will grip on a manual board. The grinder (used for heavy removal and roughing the surface for filler) can be borrowed or rented - and you could do most of this with a 36 grit disc (course) on the DA sander. I did weld in the holes I found but that could be farmed out to a buddy or a welding shop. Mostly this takes time and patience!

Dan
Attached Thumbnails
I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0892.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0893.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0894.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0897.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0898.jpg  


Last edited by Dan Stokes; 09-09-2014 at 11:28 AM.
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  #244  
Old 09-09-2014, 11:23 AM
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Second entry of the day:

When my buddy came over to help bleed the brakes and clutch he thought that the shifter location was pretty much unusable. So here's what I came up with:

Those who have been following the build may remember that this is a stock 240D manual shifter assembly grafted into the S-10. It wanted to be next to the seat and a bit further back than might be optimal.

I slipped a length of shrink tubing over the new offset handle but it didn't follow the curves very well so I might have it powder coated.

Remember that the longer the distance from the pivot to the knob, the longer the throw. I kept it as short as I could but we'll have to see how it works at the track.

Interesting note far all you M-B folks - the shift handle thread is a 10mm 1.00 pitch, which is the metric equivalent of ultra fine. There is no such thing as a 10/1.0 coupling nut as seen at the base of the extension. But - if you drill out a 3/8" coupling nut with a .344 drill bit (a standard size) you can CAREFULLY retap it to a 10/1.0. The 3/8 rod as seen can be threaded to 10/1.0 though the threads aren't full depth. To be safe, I welded the coupling nut to the rod.

You could certainly use this method to move your shifter in your Mercedes.


Dan
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I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0896.jpg  
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  #245  
Old 09-20-2014, 09:34 AM
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A bit more body work, this time "customizing" stuff (well, sorta).

Remember, this is a race truck so some of the "normal" fittings simply are not needed. Like the antenna hole and the door locks.

1) Here's the plug for the antenna hole. Note the "handle" which is a stud from the stud gun (see previous posts).

2) The door lock hole. I think these are similar on a M-B.

3) The plug cut to fit and in place for welding. I use a big magnet to hold it in place as I start the welding. The center bolt makes a good ground.

4) Welded in. I use the "connect the dots" method so I can skip around and minimize warpage.

5) Ground, filled, smoothed, and primed. No one need ever know.


Remember, these techniques can be used on any vehicle including your Mercedes. For example, if you have a rust spot that's confined to a particular area you can cut it out, make the patch out of sheet metal like I did, then weld it in place. The patch for the antenna hole is a good example of that type of patch. Use a low setting on the welder, take your time, hop around the perimeter to minimize distortion, take the time to grind the weld flush, and you're ready to fill and finish. Use a gas-shielded MIG as a flux-core is just too coarse to yield a nice result.

You can DO this!

Dan
Attached Thumbnails
I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0909.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0919.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0921.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0922.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0925.jpg  


Last edited by Dan Stokes; 09-20-2014 at 12:02 PM.
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  #246  
Old 09-23-2014, 10:17 PM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
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FYI the bolts that hold the intermediate plate to the block are M10x1.5 (same size/pitch as the exhaust manifold studs)
This also applies to the om603
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
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No merc at the moment
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  #247  
Old 10-30-2014, 08:46 PM
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The paint is in progress. This hit a couple of snags but I got the green on today The truck will be green down to the body accent line and black on the bottom. These pics are actually of the first color but the paint guy and I altered the color a bit to match my big Dodge truck's color better. So I reshot it today and all is drying in the shop (heat is a good thing!).

With any luck I'll be shooting black tomorrow, then on to reassembly and detailing. I should be able to fire the old Benz up in a week or two.

Notice that the shop is converted to a spray booth. Seems to work pretty well. I have a row of box fans and spacers that I install along the floor under the door and close the door onto the fans and spacers. It really sucks (as you would want it to).

Who trains skeeter's to alight on my fresh paint (last pic)?

Dan
Attached Thumbnails
I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0936.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0938.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0935.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0940.jpg  
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  #248  
Old 10-31-2014, 07:18 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,611
Looks very good Dan!
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #249  
Old 11-06-2014, 09:13 PM
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The S-10 is in color!!!!

All of this took a LOT longer than it should have - 1 step forward and 2 steps back. But here it is:

I took many more pics but these sort of cover the finished product. I have a tape stripe to apply and lots of body bits to reinstall (door handles, front splash pan, etc.) but there's a light at the end of the tunnel now.

Notice that one can see the engine again. It's all dusty but a little detailing and I'll be home free. There's also a bit more fabbing and installation remaining - radiator overflow tank (I may get a sexy aluminum one), the final fuel lines - stuff like that.

Feelin' pretty pleased with myself tonight!

Dan
Attached Thumbnails
I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0952.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0953.jpg   I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project-img_0954.jpg  
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  #250  
Old 11-07-2014, 12:44 AM
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Looks great!
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  #251  
Old 11-07-2014, 08:10 PM
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Thanks. That was a lot of work but I've painted a LOT of cars over the years so I know the drill. I changed both brands of paint a couple of times and my paint supplier but I finally found my good paint guy after he changed jobs. All is settled down now to a new "normal".

It did come out nicely using PPG's cheaper line of paint.

Dan
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  #252  
Old 11-07-2014, 10:17 PM
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NICE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #253  
Old 11-08-2014, 12:17 AM
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Thanks Mark! Hopefully I'll be testing out those new injectors in a few weeks.

I still haven't been over to check out the aluminum stocks. Why don't come this way and we can take a run over there?

Dan
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  #254  
Old 11-08-2014, 09:22 AM
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Maybe. If you want, shoot me a PM and I could do a swing by and install the injectors, et cet. Not sure on time or ability for free time, but it's a possibility.
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  #255  
Old 11-08-2014, 11:25 AM
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'Jectors are in! I hope I got those goofy steel plug wires in the right place. But I'd still like you to swing by. I hope to be ready for initial start-up in a couple of weeks and I'd love a more experienced guy to look it over.

Dan

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