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#1
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Voltage regulator screws stuck! 1978 300D
I've tried pb blaster. Don't really know what else to do to get this voltage regulator off. I tried a vise clamp, a few different screwdrivers but it won't budge. Any recommendations?
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1980 300D, 128K |
#2
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Try getting the an appropriate sized bit placing it in a 1/4 size socket and using a socket wrench. That might give you some additional torque you might not have with a screwdriver.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#3
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The bit in a socket is a great idea. You should also place the bit by itself on the screw head, and if you can get a hammer in there, tap on the bit to see if it will loosen it up any. It might also help to better seat the bit if the screw head has rounded any.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#4
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These are great ideas but there's so little space in there! I think I need a different size screw bit. Mine aren't fitting in there just right.
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1980 300D, 128K |
#5
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Answer
Remove the alternator from the car.
Use one of these with the correct bit. https://www.google.com/search?q=manual+impact+driver&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#6
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oh, man, easier said than done. i've been reading thread on how to remove the alternator and maybe mine has a different design? it's a 78. or maybe i'm just confused. i removed the lower bolt and removed the nut from the upper bolt. can't seem to figure out what to do past that to get this thing out!
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1980 300D, 128K |
#7
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here's a pic of the other side of the bolt - the upper one that i removed the nut from. can i attempt to hammer (if i can get in there) the other side of the bolt to get it out?
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1980 300D, 128K |
#8
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that pic should be turned to the left
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1980 300D, 128K |
#9
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Once the main bolts are loose, adjust the tensioner to slacken the belts then remove them. Pull the main bolts and the alternator and tension bracket comes out as a combined unit. Then the tension bracket can be removed from the alternator.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#10
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finally got it off! not easy. i had to remove all three bolts. impact driver worked for the voltage regulator. i hope that's the problem and not the alternator because i do not want to have to take this thing out again! I've attached a pic of the old and new regulators.
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1980 300D, 128K |
#11
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Your 1978 300D has that kind of bracket? That is odd... I didn't even know that type would fit.
__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES! 1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles |
#12
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Well, I hooked it all back up and turned on the car and the brake light and that light with the circle and 6 triangles (what is that light?) stayed on, even when the brakes were off. That's what it was doing before. I touched a voltmeter to the battery and it read 12.3.
Does this mean that I need a new alternator? Should I drive it around first or will that not do anything?
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1980 300D, 128K |
#13
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12.3v is NOT charging enough...what happens when you increase rpm with the voltmeter attached. Maybe turn the headlights on. Bring it up to 1700 rpms. I think with some regulators/alts. the rpm has to be over a certain amount/range before it kicks in and charges. I think that circle with triangles is low brake pad warning light.( front brakes) The light that says brakes could be the e- brake on or low brake fluid in reservoir indication.
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#14
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wait for another member more experienced in electrical to weigh in before giving up on that alternator. There could be more you could do to fix this. I am also not positive about 12.3 being too low, but pretty sure it is suppossed to be at least above 12.8 to be o.k. I wonder if your battery was fully charged before you hooked it back up to the new regulator?
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#15
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There is a metal springy strap inside the cavity that pushes on part of the regulator - make sure its not rusty and is actually contacting the regulator - also make sure the mounting screw boss where the regulator is grounded on is good and clean and smooth.
12.8 is too low - ideally you should see 13.8 or something.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
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