New 240D (with 617 swap) owner checking in - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

nakedfrog · #31 03-08-2013, 02:50 PM

Oh, one other thing--I'm looking at going with a W126 gauge since it seems that should work with an electric oil pressure sender. If I happen to get a whole W126 cluster, would a tach from that be compatible as well? I believe I read a thread where someone had gotten the economy gauge from a W126 to act as a boost gauge.

Partscarver · #32 03-08-2013, 03:12 PM

Did the boost gauge conversion, easy to do, fun to watch, not really useful unless your a tightwad like me and use it as an economy gauge.
I think the tach sensors are different between gassers and Diesels. would like to learn different

nakedfrog · #33 03-08-2013, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Partscarver

Did the boost gauge conversion, easy to do, fun to watch, not really useful unless your a tightwad like me and use it as an economy gauge.
I think the tach sensors are different between gassers and Diesels. would like to learn different

I can never have too much information about what the engine is doing

My driving is split between economy and fun.

cooljjay · #34 03-08-2013, 03:44 PM

I have 2 aluminum rims and 2 steel rims on my 300d.....haven't had a problem....of course I have them paired up.....technically I should have garbed the other 2 aluminum rims from the pick n pull....but they had bad tires and I wasn't in my right mind I suppose lol

nakedfrog · #35 03-08-2013, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

I have 2 aluminum rims and 2 steel rims on my 300d.....haven't had a problem....of course I have them paired up.....technically I should have garbed the other 2 aluminum rims from the pick n pull....but they had bad tires and I wasn't in my right mind I suppose lol

From the checking I've been able to do, it seems they might be a bit scarce in junkyards in my area. I need to either find a good seat or do some kind of repair on my driver's seat. If I can find something else to fashion the collar from, I like what I read on the dieselgiant site for that (seeing as I don't have any old injector lines laying around).

Another thing, I seem to be missing one of the rubber feet on the driver's side hood support(?) (two screws at the front of the hood that have indentations they sit in, the passenger side one is still intact, rubber circle maybe 1/2" thick). Anyone know a good substitute?

nakedfrog · #36 03-08-2013, 11:06 PM

Okay, I figured I'd get started on the shocks tonight since I didn't have anything else going on. Got it undone from the mount easily enough. Then I couldn't figure any way to get the 10mm socket on one of the bolts... turns out someone apparently lost it last time they changed shocks, and used a 13mm (well, I used a 13mm universal to get it off, it's a 6 sided bolt). Barely enough room for my socket to get it off, it was rubbing against the shock pretty good. The threading seems the same, but as much as I loathe to, I'm going to put the same bolt in the same spot just to be safe.
And the other surprise was that there's a wood block jammed in between the spring coils. Any idea what the idea is there? There isn't one on the other side.
But yes, having the shock out allows me to see just how bad off it is in comparison to the new one. It takes minimal effort to compress the old one by hand, and I can see oil leakage. The new one... I anticipate a little more effort involved to get it put in than the old one was to take out

nakedfrog · #37 03-10-2013, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nakedfrog

Got my fuel sender out and cleaned up, but I'm going to have to take it back out. When I put it back in last night, at first it was giving some kind of inaccurate reading, but now I've got nothing. Going to re-clean the contacts and spend longer trying to re-solder the copper wire.
Also got a vacuum hose that should reach into the car, I already have a gauge in the toolbox that should work as a boost gauge to let me know how well things are working in that department.

I got this done yesterday. Looks like on the fuel sender, somehow during my cleaning and soldering, the silver wire came out from between the contacts. I hadn't actually noticed them the first time. I cleaned them up some on both sides, and got the one back in place. Did a better job of soldering the copper wire this time too, I think it should be good for a while.
Based on my gauge, I'm maxing out at 8PSI of boost. I'm not dissatisfied with the performance currently, so I'm not even going to worry about that until I've done the valve adjustment, a purge, and changed the oil and fuel filters, then I test again.
I also noticed that there's no black cover on my ALDA screw, so I'm thinking it's possible someone already fiddled with that.

charmalu · #38 03-10-2013, 05:49 PM

Im think you were refering to these Hood Stop buffers?

part# 201 988 05 11 $4.25 on this site.

Just about any will fit from 123, 126, 124, 201. there is usually a flat washer, 10mm nut and the buffer screws into the body. the nut is to lock it after it is adjusted.

the instrument cluster and or the gauges will not fit into the 123 cluster housing.

Charlie

nakedfrog · #39 03-13-2013, 04:07 PM

That looks like exactly the part I was thinking of, thanks!

On another note, I'm not sure how I can get my current cluster out without disconnecting the speedometer cable from the transmission, I spent a while last night on it. Could not get the end to unscrew from the speedo itself by hand, and couldn't pull it out far enough to get a good grip with pliers or anything. Planning on getting underneath it soon anyway, so I'll plan on unscrewing it then and doing what I have to do (adding a new ground to the fuel/temp gauge to address the remaining gauge flutter, and seeing about the dash light situation).

Picked up a reconditioned group 49 battery over lunch, too, after two days of having to get a jump so I could go to work in the morning--the battery that had been in it was a 36R, rated at 650 CCA. My 14mm straight wrenches should show up in the mail today, I already have a torch and a buddy lined up to bend them with me. Two gallons of Rotella also waiting in the wings along with a filter. Don't have the new fuel filters yet, but that should be in the near future.

charmalu · #40 03-13-2013, 11:46 PM

Remove the spedo cable from the trans. 10mm bolt.
Remove the 2 clips a little farther up the cable.

Pull the cluster out and give the spedo cable a tug under the dash, this will give you the room you need to remove the cable from the spedo. Use a pair of pliers to loosen it if it is tight.

Remove the oil line. 13mm and a 10mm box wrench. 13 takes the stress of the gauge fitting as you loosen the 10mm.

Charlie

nakedfrog · #41 03-16-2013, 12:06 AM

Got it. Oil gauge isn't actually hooked up to anything in the engine bay since the engine has an electrical sending unit. Instead of soldering a jumper for the dash lights, I just made one out of a short length of wire, and re-installed the rheostat over it (planning on rebuilding the rheostat based on a DIY here eventually). It works, you guys weren't kidding when you said it's not that bright

Looks like my first full tank was 22MPG, not bad considering, but I think I can do better since I rarely get over 60MPH. It does turn out that I have three aluminum wheels and one steel, I'm checking a few places to get the 5.5" I need, then get some new, matched tires (planning on 195/70).
Looks like my wiper fluid reservoir is leaking, I took it out and cleaned it, I suspect it's either leaking from the grommet or where the hose hooks onto the pump, going to check that tomorrow.
I pulled the driver's side window switches to open them up and take a look, since the driver's side isn't doing anything right now. The passenger side wasn't going up all the way, I pulled the door panel and pushed it all the way up since it's likely to start raining soon.
I got the larger allen wrench set to I can change the transmission and differential fluid, by the looks of the drain/fill plugs, it's been quite a long time since they were done. I really didn't see where I should be checking for the part number on the diff, it's pretty grimy. I gather that I probably ought to check the number on the transmission too? Currently I'm planning to put Redline D4 ATF in if it's appropriate for the one that's in there.

nakedfrog · #42 04-19-2013, 03:51 PM

Okay, wasn't sure if I should start a new thread on this or not.
I'm quite fond of air conditioning. I believe I see where the belt for the compressor would go, but looking around, I'm really not sure where the compressor itself could be mounted. It's entirely plausible that this is the reason the AC was deleted when the engine was swapped, but does anyone that's had familiarity with a 300D engine put into a 240D have any input on how the AC could be restored? If there's no good option, I can just finish fixing the sunroof/windows and drive one of my newer cars when it's ridiculously hot out. I wouldn't mind putting some money into it if need be, I may take it to Star Class Motors and ask what he thinks some time in the next few weeks.

If anyone's curious, the car has been treating me well over the last month. Happy with the new shocks so far, did an oil change with Rotella dino (did use an STP filter, bought it before I knew better), just adjusted the valves last Sunday. Handy since the temperature dipped back down into the 30s, starts like a champ now. 25MPG on the last two tanks, that's adequate by my standards. Still a lot of little things to take care of, but the important bits seem pretty solid.

mach4 · #43 04-19-2013, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nakedfrog

I'm quite fond of air conditioning. I believe I see where the belt for the compressor would go, but looking around, I'm really not sure where the compressor itself could be mounted. It's entirely plausible that this is the reason the AC was deleted when the engine was swapped, but does anyone that's had familiarity with a 300D engine put into a 240D have any input on how the AC could be restored?

The first question would be does the chassis have all the A/C stuff in there - condensor, evaporator, expansion valve, dryer, etc. If so, then it's probably a pretty simple matter to mount a Sanden in there using one of Rollguys brackets and fabbing up a few hoses. If not, then you're looking at a pretty huge undertaking to install all the A/C components.

While the compressor will mount to the engine, the other consideration is whether you will have the clearance to make it fit with the chassis. That was my situation with the 617 I installed in the 107. It now fits, but it was really touch and go and lots of mods were needed. No way to know until you try, or someone else chimes in with their first person experience.

charmalu · #44 04-19-2013, 11:57 PM

I just re-read 3 pages to get back up to speed here.

Since you have an 82 240D, then this year had an EGR. behind the pass side kick panel is a small black box, that has several inputs into it, but it is for controling the EGR.

Funola, a member here, used that box and jumping some wires and adding a Tack from a 300D, he made it work. you won`t have to jury rig a 126 tach or cluster in your 123 which won`t fit anyway.

DIY tach for 240D w EGR- easy!

As far as the electric sending unit for the oil gauge, (which the W126 uses) I would R&R the Oil Filter Housing and get one off a 300D which had the fitting for the oil line. also grab the oil supply line to the Turbo. they might be bent a little different.
The two filter housing are not the same even though they look the same except for the sending unit. they are angled a little different and the plate at the rear is different, so that can`t be swaped over.

X2 going with the Sanden Compressor.
Be a good time to pull the dash and clean the heat/AC box and Evaporator. check what daw-two is doing.
1984 300D Light Ivory unique car

Charlie

Ndralle · #45 06-17-2013, 07:40 PM

How did the new shocks work out? if you are concerned about the height, i believe the 240d had different springs to account for the lighter engine and manual trans. you can pull springs out of a 300d but that might give too much lift because the auto trans is heavier.

the cluster between the w123 and w126 are pretty different. the w126 has much smaller (diameter) gauges. I second the fact that you can pull a mechanical oil sending unit from a 300d and swap it in place of the electrical. (just make sure you hook that line up to your cluster b4 you test it out or you will have black carpets

as for the tach. you can hook it up to the EGR "computer", if it is in fact hooked up (i have done this on my 240d) but my thought is that your engine should be equipped with a tooth that senses the RPMs. you will likely just need a tach and tach amp from a 300d and it should swap right in.

if you have the stock rear differential a tach may be a terrifying notion at highway speeds. It took me a while to get over those high RPMs and shift points. Personally i would keep the stock differential but that is only because I like to pretend my 240d is a G-wagon and the lower gear ratio is great if you don't want to get stuck on those Cali beaches. ha.

In short...it sounds like you need a 300d parts car. (more Mercs is always better

P.S. Good luck on a good find. If it wasn't for the extra weight i was drop 617 in my 240d in a heart beat.