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I have really enjoyed this car. Good size, very comfortable, good fuel economy for the size. I just don't have the space for it while repairing, much less the space for a donor. I guess my insurer sees good potential in the wrecked car. My buyback is close to $2000. I would throw in my spare odds and ends, too (front brake disks, a couple of fuel lines and o-rings, center link, manuals). Tom |
Never heard of one that high on a 10+ year old car. Makes you wonder if somethings up with the insurance guy as I couldn't see that car going for any more than $1,000 at a salvage auction, probalby less.
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Surely an insurance adjuster wouldn't manipulate the price of the wreck to make it more likely that they would get to keep a donor car with lots of good sheet metal and a strong diesel motor. Right? Tom |
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With AAA in CA, they provided me the comparable sales data for cars in similar condition to my vehicle prior to a major accident. And they provided me the salvage sales for totaled vehicles of similar condition. Actually seeing the data for both options help alleviate my concerns that they were gaming the system. I would check with your insurance company to get the actual sales data used in pricing both the market value prior to the accident, and the salvage value afterwards. Good luck.
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Mine had a perfect front clip and driveline. Doors and such were still good.
Much stuff that had good value, yet salvage was 1,000. Perhaps the geographic area makes a difference, or maybe they have a diesel centric buyer that puts a high value on totaled diesels. Jim |
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I plan on replacing my E300 diesel with a 2006 or so W211 turbo diesel. There are three in our immediate family and the W211 is as big a jump from the W124 as the W124 was from the W123. If I didn't have three girls in college draining me, I'd probably be looking casually. This might be a good reason for you to go to the next level of diesel nirvana. Jim |
I personally have fixed two cars with as much or more damage...
in addition to the metal and radiators, you are looking at motor mounts, and pulleys. shift arms, and several minor things you'll discover as you get closer to fixed. it's easily doable, but don't think you'll be done with it in a weekend (or 3 even...) I'll start the bidding on the car at $500 |
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Insurance company is making it tough for a Mercedes lover to keep this car on the road. If I keep the wreck, it will cost me just shy of $2000. Weasels! Regards, Tom |
I bought my 84SD for ~$300 and still received almost $3,000 for it. Your car should pay you a little more and be not much more to buy it back. Then you can repair or sell as you choose.
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If you're not going to do the work yourself and you don't know the extent of the damage, it's probably not a good cost proposition for you. That is, unless, you start parting it out on Ebay but that's alot of work. |
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Regards, Tom |
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Look at the estimate and see if they wrote new OEM parts or used. Some adjusters are lazy and will write OEM because it's easy and usually just a click on their estimating software. In order to write used, they need to actually search for them and call to verify availability and insurance quality. Is the car at a shop, or at your home? |
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When I hit a deer with my 83 SD, insurance adjuster could not believe that the car didn't total out. (300k on the clock) Ended up getting a check for $1500 (had $300 deductible too), which was more than I paid for the car. |
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