I do NOT recommend this.

A forum member was explaining his method to me on the phone last month:
* Clean the shield (brake clean).
* A lag screw run in enough to catch.
* JB weld around the base of the screw - heat shield.
* Wait for it to fully cure.
* Close the hood.
* Crank the engine.

I have several serious concerns with this method:
* Glue entering the pre-chamber.
* Glue on the injector ring threads.
* Glue wicking = bonding between heat shield and the pre-chamber.
* The assembly explosively exiting the pre-chamber denting the hood, and if the hood is open doing great bodily harm or killing someone.

He now has a pair of unique dents in his hood.


Please be wise and consider safety before, during, and while cleaning up every repair.
Health & Safety


Have a great day.
.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

best technique I saw was a guy made a small bent fork at a shaft end. then tempered it - stacked some washers and put a big engine piston pin as a slide hammer.

I have removed them from VW diesels with a lag screw - worked everytime. - the lag screw was just rocked sideways and out it came.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

...and don't forget to be thankful that it is not a Dodge Van...

__________________
On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif

Ha ha! Pictures please!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

LOL I can see how that could be an issue

Not a chance.
He did not take pictures, and it is already back from the body shop.


.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Now that gave me a good laugh this morning.

Ya i understand the seriousness of doing this procedure.

Iam sure no one is going to own up to this, I was thinking there will be someone in the want to by section looking for a hood for XXX model MB.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I've always just bent a sturdy nail at a 90 degree angle, put it in under it, and yanked. Never seen one in tight enough to not come out with that treatment. Most I've removed I just lifted out with a pick.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Sears used to sell a screw driver tool with a tapered thread on the business end and probably still do. I use that to get a grip on the shield and then like others, rock it back and forth and kind of around in a circle in the direction of threading the head into the hole. One the shield moves slightly I can yank it out by hand.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

But, the VW Rabbits like My Volvo use the Heat Shields with a 5mm Hole. The Heat Sheilds with a 10mm Hole have less Metal to grab onto.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Where I used to work one of the so called Mechanics removed a Chevy 3.5 liter Diesel Engine Injector (stanadyne Pencil Injector) by removing the Injector Clamp an starting the Engine.

When it came out it missed the Hood but it broke and took part of the Fuel Injection Hard Line with it and shot over a 6 foot Fence into the yard of the Business next door.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Help… I’m at my wits end.

Can’t get the last injector heat shield out of my 91 300D. All four others came out perfectly easily. This one I’ve effectively destroyed and will not budge.

What do I do?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Help… I’m at my wits end.

Can’t get the last injector heat shield out of my 91 300D. All four others came out perfectly easily. This one I’ve effectively destroyed and will not budge.

What do I do?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

How do you destroy these things or cut them to get them out? There is too much prechamber underneath them to be able to cut too far with a small saw blade.

So frustrated. Hoping for some help.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Can’t even destroy it. Punch, lag bolt, all the ways recommended here.

Even tried to drill it to split it, and also use a cold chisel to split it. No luck whatsoever.

Looks like I’m going to have to invest in prechamber tools. Ugh….

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)