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Climate Control Servo removal Auto Temp II AC 1980 300D
I know this topic is off-topic to the purest who wants their car original.
But I finally dove in and removed the under hood servo, the amplifier behind the glove box, and disconnected the vacuum line harness going to the servo. Behind the panel in the dash disconnected the 4 vacuum operated electrical switches and the 4 electrically operated vacuum switches. My goal: 1. Control the fan manually, Off 1 2 3 speeds. 2. Activate heat (open hot water line, turn on pump, activate needed vacuum pods). 3. Activate AC (turn on compressor, activate vacuum pods). My original design was to create three fused circuits with three electrical switches. The fan was simple enough, control the fan manually. The heat and AC involve electricity and vacuum, so these each needed a electrically controlled vacuum switch that would control the required vent pods. The original idea was going to completely bypass the center console panel and interact with the various fan, heating , cooling parts directly. Like any cheap manually operated car. It turned out that I was able to use the original panel to control my vacuum pods and fan speed and AC compressor. So it is much cleaner then I had thought it would be. Where it is now: After starting the car I need a switch to cut all power to the cabin fan/blower. If I turn this switch on the fan blows on low (even in the off position). Lo is the same speed. Hi and bi-level move to a higher speed. So I basically have a two speed fan. Testing the backside of the climate control panel I determined which buttons activate which vacuum lines and connected the pods directly to get floor on bi-level and dash air on Lo and Hi. Defrost override still works (it always bypassed amp and servo). I took my power for the fan from the blue wire on the back of the climate control panel. Using the AC Compressor switch I simply ran 12v to it and ran that to the compressor. My center vents were already clamped open permanently so I can control vent air by simply closing or opening dash vents. So far I have set the stage to now connect or disconnect pods as needed to get the airflow I want. My next goal is to find a 12 volt water valve to replace the manual one where the servo was removed. Right now I have the manually operated valve that is well documented on this forum for doing wintertime heat. BACKGROUND: I have owned this car since 1984 (second owner) and have always kept it factory original and working 100 percent. Two Auto Temp II servos (this one is the aluminum one), two amplifiers, two AC compressors. Recently replaced the climate control panel after the old one leaked vacuum. I owned (and sold) the very rare Climate Control test equipment shown in the Mercedes Benz service manual for diagnosing the climate control system. Still have the original MB manuals on the complete climate control system. And have the Chrysler version provided by the Imperial group. I would rather purchase a 1981 or newer MB without the ACC Servo than own one of these. Seriously. NOTE TO THE PUREST: After owning this car 29 years and getting too old for some of this my changing out the factory system is a last ditch effort before most likely getting rid of this car. Where I live it gets below 40 in the winter, and over 100 in the summer. We like our cars to heat and cool when needed. For years I had thought about what it would take to simplify the system to provide basic comfort and finally tried it. The other $500 option was the replacement system for the servo but it still relied on so much of the original design I just did not want another short term solution. Flame suit on, sure you folks think I have broken some cardinal rule or am too lazy. But this was a lot of work and it just might end up being a solution.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
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I am not sure why anyone would criticize you. On top of the fact that it's your car and you can do as you please, you certainly seem to have paid your due diligence dues over the years with both your equipment purchases and your running repairs.
I, for one, view purity as a relative virtue, both in women and in automotive repairs. You seem to have a handle on what you are doing. In the past, I have seen people snapped at for whining about not being able to make the system work with a manual control valve they pulled off a Toyota and a long piece of string. Hardly the case with what you have written so far. I owned a '79 300sd for eight years and only had to do two minor repairs on the Type II, and never the servo. This lulled me into a false sense of confidence in the system. Having bought a 1980 300td many years later has taken care of that. If you do come up with a replicable solution that at least provides basic airflow and temperature controls at less hassle than doing a complete manual control system (240d) transplant, I will be standing at the head of the line of those who wish to copy it. I do encourage you to take photographs where practical, if you are able, and if you want to share this later.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
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Hey I am on board too! I would love to find a way to have the original purpose of the acc II work with out having to buy the 750$ kit which doesn't use the fresh air flap. My system was working great...I have a new servo/amp/sensor tube/unfroze aux pump and working vac pods....but last night I got in the car and couldn't get the system to work...even the deforst didn't work...so I am lost at where to look now....but I like the system....just wish there was a cheap way to upgrade the system.,
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Quote:
works like a champ!
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
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@OP: i'm stuck with the autotemp II on my '79 SD as well. i found a working servo and amp at the wrecking yard. so far (3 months) it's been working like it's supposed to. i actually went ahead and coated the plastic portion of the servo in epoxy in hopes to prevent any cracking; only time will tell if it holds up. i'm still planning on doing a manual climate control swap once i source all the parts.
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1983 300SD (daily driver) 1991 420SEL (work in progress) 1979 300SD (future replacement for 83 SD) RIP: 1983 300SD (totalled) 1986 420SEL |
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I inherited my 1979 280CE from my grandparents, its been in the family since 1990-1991, looking through the old records it looks like between 1990-2013 it has had 3 servos installed, two vacuum pods, and one cracked vacuum line near the battery tray replaced in that time span.
As for now i plan to keep my original system to keep it original, i do not ever plan to sell this car.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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PHILLYTWOTANK !! That valve is excellent. But it is rated for 195 degrees F - is that a problem ??
The vacuum ones I mention below are rated to 270 F and are automotive applications. Searching vacuum operated water valves I found several that are cheap like that electric one. But So far the two I looked at are open all the time and need to be vacuum operated to close. I am looking for a water valve that is closed all the time, and open when activated/needed. A part number from Everco / Murray / 4 seasons 74612 or 74802 or 74803 which I got from cross ref of D4AZ-18495-A . You all can look these up as possible valves but they are all open by default. I investigated vacuum operated as it seems to be in line with the Mercedes method of using vacuum for things and thought that would be cool. I worked out the simplest single switch for heat that I could. One 12 volt switch to activate the water valve and electric water pump. That is all it will do. The local auto parts store folks are not too familiar with these valves so I am left asking to see one and having to open each box. I could not find a reference guide on line that explained each valves operation. That would have helped.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
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