616.916 vs. 616.912
 

Thinking about swapping the engine from my parts car (616.912) into my w115 (has a 616.916) and was wondering if I'm gonna encounter any big issues. I know the oil filter setups are different, not sure about anything with the oil pans or not, which is where I suspect there might be issues

Thanks!

Hey Kid, anything can be done. Mostly just takes time. Sometimes money is helpful. But I'd say they are switchable. Here is the listing from the Russian EPC. It is easy to use and has everything Mercedes Benz built. Does not show all part numbers, but has drawings of everything. You will love it.

Index to Mercedes EPC Parts Info and Diagrams | Everything Benz

the oil filter might end-up in the middle of your heater valves .

lots of small things
power steering pump diff location , not sure if easy swap mounts on the blocks or not ..
oil pressure line is different end on it ..

you prob want to swap manifolds to save having to reweld the pipe ...

you will need to swap motor mounts as the 123 and 115 are different ..

Bump to revive this head as I have a few more questions.

Thinking about adding a turbo to the w115 to get it a little more peppy, so what I'm thinking about doing is getting an extra head and have it rebuilt with turbo exhaust valves, turbo prechambers/injectors, and also getting an injection pump from a later model 616. Anyway, I'm wondering if there's any major differences between the earlier and later heads that would prevent me from getting a later one and putting it on? Also curious if there's any major pump differences, since I know the early ones are very different in design? I have a set of exhaust flanges and several mandrel bent pieces of tubing I'll be using to make a custom exhaust manifold to enable mounting the turbo, and I plan on keeping boost low, around 8 psi or so, and not really running WOT for long periods of time, so I'll be monitoring boost and egt to make sure I don't get it hot enough to cause problems down the road.

Any additional input is appreciated folks!

For the heads you may encounter different camshafts, prechambers, etc as engines post 8/78 (I think) had all those bits changed

"Turbo" prechambers may punch your pistons, not sure.

I believe there's some machining involved with fitting turbo prechambers but they should fit, I think another member on here (47dodge) put them in his turbo 240D build

The later "turbo" pre-chambers need to match the later pistons see =>

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/615/05-117.pdf

Kid, this is a bad idea and you need to do a lot more studying before you start it... the fact that you do not know that the turbo setup of the engine .. .like the pistons which are cooled by oil squirters from the engine block... means you need to get a lot more familiar with MB diesels in general before you make a big decision on this car.

I'm literally doing the exact same thing as 47dodge did in this thread, with no ill affects, except on an older 616 than he used

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/310196-new-engine-build-616-a.html

All of the performance things on the turbo engines like the oil squirters and oil cooled pistons are there to help increase their life over hundreds of thousands of miles of driving WOT on the autobahn, whereas I probably won't be taking the car over 70, maybe 75 max, for short periods (such as passing and merging on the freeway), and I'll be monitoring exhaust temperatures to make sure they don't exceed 1000-1100*F max (I seriously doubt I could get it up to 1100 though, and if I did I wouldn't let it stay there for more than a few seconds)

Where did you get that idea ?

If you look at this in the bigger picture... you could transplant a NA 617 into your car... still not fun due to the oil filter placement problem.... but get that twenty horses in a form which you could expect very long life from it....
One type of thing you are overlooking ... is that the size of the bearings on things like the rod to crank were increased ....and the assumption that you can watch the EGT close enough to keep from melting the top of a piston... unnecessarily puts your entire project at risk after a lot of work and money is invested...
I do not care what you do with your car... it is your car... so these comments are for others in case they wonder why I think it is a bad idea...

Well the extra power will only be used during acceleration, which is what, maybe 5% of actual driving time? I think it shouldn't be much of a problem as long as there's proper maintenance and everything is taken care of. And seeing as how later 616 engines made 72hp with the same block, and only minor head differences than the early ~60ish hp one, and I'm aiming for around 80hp, that's only about an 11% increase in power over what we know stock 616 engines in good running shape make without any issues

I'm calling BS on this one. Once you feel the power, you're going to be running hammer down all day :P

You will be fine, watch your piston/prechamber mixes to get the right clearance & fit. You can take measurements with clay and turn the crank by hand.

If the head comes off, smooth your transitions near the valve seat-that's the choke point.

If you're worried about bearing deformation and bending rods, don't fuel too hard on the low end. With stock elements you won't have enough diesel to break anything.

I do know a guy who blew up a NA 617 by turboing it, but he didn't monitor anything-just slapped it together and drove around.

I'd put money on the 616 block holding up to 120hp no problem. You're on your own for fueling to that point though :)

Yup, I'm living proof of that.

I would ask where in the OP's query was the request for anyone whos opinion of the proposal that was 'why they personally think it is a bad idea'.