95 e300 diesel. Looking at this car. What should I look for? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Clemson88 · #1 03-18-2013, 08:48 AM

It is a 1992 diesel non turbo e300. It has 200k on it. The seller tells me nothing but the interior is 95% good and the clear coat is coming off on the top and trunk. Which is nothing.
I would like to know what to look for mechanically when looking at this car. I want to make sure I am not getting a lemon.
Thank you in advance.

Stuiie · #2 03-18-2013, 10:04 AM

From past experiance, I would open the hood remove the oil filler cap and look for signs of coolant in the oil it would look like a gray color with consistance of mud, also remove the oil dip stick and check for the same thing.
Then check the coolant overflow resivor and see if it has the same signs of oil in the coolant.
If the engine is at operating temp check the trans oil level and see what color it is and if it smells like burnt popcorn.
Drive the car and pay close attention to the way the engine sounds and how the tranny shifts through the gears. Im sure others will chime in.

vstech · #3 03-18-2013, 10:40 AM

look at the covers where the glow plugs are, see if there are signs of ham fisted mechanics... the GP's are a bear and expensive it messed up.
look over the engine wiring harness, actually grab it and wiggle on it. if it's all cracked and brittle... expect to pay a grand or more to replace it...

the a/c evaporator is expensive and time consuming to replace, check the drip hose for signs of UV dye leaking out...

Jeremy5848 · #4 03-18-2013, 11:25 AM

Your title says it's a '95, the text says 1992. Which?

Check the shocks. If you see a large number, usually between "1" and "5" and stenciled in white or yellow, that indicates a factory original rear shock or front strut. At 200K these will need replacing; $500 for Bilsteins (mail order parts store) and do all the work yourself.

Check the motor mounts. These are hydraulic and have a typical lifetime of 100,000 miles. Easy DIY job and less than $200 in parts.

Ditto the engine wiring harnesses as previously mentioned. Mid-90s MBs got harnesses with "environmentally friendly" wire insulation; after 10 years or so it turns to plastic, cracks, and falls off. Worse in a hot area like an engine bay. Harnesses are expensive and a lot of disassembly is required to replace them. Can be very expensive.

While you're under the hood check the rubber and plastic vacuum lines. Many operate the EGR system and can be ignored unless your state smogs diesels. Other lines (in a '95 E300) operate the flaps that "tune" the intake manifold. Failure of this system will affect performance.

Check the suspension, front and back. There are a lot of rubber bushings in the various links that support the wheels; after 200,000 miles most of these should already have been replaced but it is a rare car that has actually had the work done. If you find one definitely bad it's likely that most of the others are getting ready to go. This work is DIY-possible, the various links are $30 -- $75 each.

All of the above work will cost a lot more to have done in a shop and the parts will probably be more expensive too. These items do not make the car "bad" because they are all fixable but they give you specific things to point out during negotiations.

Jeremy