Partially stuck glow plug -606

[WINGAS]

Folks, finsihing up the GPs on a 235K mile 606. Did the easy ones before 3-4-5, now doing 1-2-6. 2-6 are "unbolted" but wont come out due to swelled tips and carbon, I guess.

Have soaked them down pretty good with PB blaster. The trick I used on #`1, continuing to "unscrew" while applying outward pressure with a screwdriver, isnt budging #2 or # 6.

Cranked it over a few times to blow debris out #1 ( reamed the hole) before I put the new GP in. The craking did nothing to move 2 or 6. Now I am thinking of firing the engine up and see if the combustion blows these two plugs out. But I prefer not to put a hole in the fender ( although 6 is right behind the oil filter can).

Anyone BTDT and can offer some tips?

If not firing the enigne ( which puckers me), I can try and cut a nut in half, collar the GP and see if it can be further unscrewed. Have already broken the inner from outer on #6 and dont really want to break the plug while its in the head.

[KarTek]

If you fire the engine up, those stuck cylinders will only run until the plug pops out since it'll lose all compression the instant the plug is loosened.

It's not like fire will start jetting out of the hole.

[WINGAS]

Oh, as long as a GP comes out the hole, I'll be happy!

Kind of at wits end here, that's why I was thinking of warming everything thing up again.

[pimpernell]

Originally Posted by WINGAS

Folks, finsihing up the GPs on a 235K mile 606. Did the easy ones before 3-4-5, now doing 1-2-6. 2-6 are "unbolted" but wont come out due to swelled tips and carbon, I guess.

Have soaked them down pretty good with PB blaster. The trick I used on #`1, continuing to "unscrew" while applying outward pressure with a screwdriver, isnt budging #2 or # 6.

Cranked it over a few times to blow debris out #1 ( reamed the hole) before I put the new GP in. The craking did nothing to move 2 or 6. Now I am thinking of firing the engine up and see if the combustion blows these two plugs out. But I prefer not to put a hole in the fender ( although 6 is right behind the oil filter can).

Anyone BTDT and can offer some tips?

If not firing the enigne ( which puckers me), I can try and cut a nut in half, collar the GP and see if it can be further unscrewed. Have already broken the inner from outer on #6 and dont really want to break the plug while its in the head.

When I did my glow plugs, I used PB Blaster in conjunction with a product called Freeze Off. Took me over two days to get the #6 plug out, but it did come out. It along with another plug was carbon bound, and both would squeak when moved in any direction. I continued to spray both products on the plugs,would wait 30-40 minutes, and then tried to mover them in either direction. I also used a torque wrench to insure that I did not apply too much force, and break off the plug in the head. Good luck!!


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[WINGAS]

Again, to be very clear, these are no longer "sqeaking", spin pretty freely, but aint coming out! The "squeaker" was #1 and it came out easily.

[chazola]

If spinning freely, are you sure they're not broken? If hopefully not, and they're screwed all the way out, try wiggling gently & some more penetrating fluid of your choice down the plugs, then pull hard with a pair of grips/pliers... they're probably carbon-ed up pretty badly- but they should pull out with a bit of brute force

[Zulfiqar]

I saw a video of a guy undoing the gps on a 606 whilst the engine was started and running, the engine temp needle registered 100C and they came out pretty easily for him, to aid he used aerokroil.

[Diesel911]

You could pull the Injectors and with a strong light look down inside and see if the Glow Plug tips are actually swollen.
If the Glow Plug tips are swollen and they are Bosch or Beru Glow Plugs you are having Injector or Fuel Injection Timing issues.

This would allow you to squirt PB Blaster on the tip side of the GP.

Some members have said Kreen works better that PB Blaster and in some of the Stuck Piston Ring threads they have suggested some other Chemicals that loosen up the Carbon.

[connerm]

OTC 6005A Glow Plug Remover Tool Set : Amazon.com : Automotive

I used this tool and could not have done the job without it. This was about as cheap as I've seen it.

[WINGAS]

Ya, I made a set of split nuts from a fine thread M12, but its too thick to slip behind the GP hex heads. They're just out of the threads and barely sticking out. R&R'd the water pump today, while spraying a bit more Thrust into the wiggling glow plugs. Might have to get a set of those thingamajigies, whittle the nut in half( or find a thinner nut to saw), or make a custom fit crow bar. Before I simply fire the beast and hope it spits 'em out.

Bet this is someone R&R'in the plugs prior and not reaming the carbon out.

Chaozla, I donnow man, they "gave way" easy, spun out a bit on the threads and then stopped coming out but continued spinning. #1 sqeeked its way out, with some help with a screwdriver pushing from behind. That trick isnt working with 2 and 6. They have to be wet from penetrant by now.

Tomorrow i'll R&R the vaccum pump, spray some more, and craft up a custom fit pry bar.

Thanks for the replies!


EDIT: Thats odd, I cliked another set at he bottom of the posted by connerm and it appears to be the same set at $20 less. ?


http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2820-Diesel-Remover/dp/B006Z58W4K/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2

[chazola]

When changing plugs on my 606's I've had squeakers, ones that have come out with hardly any hassle, stubborn carboned and broken-off ones- if they've sheared they'll really spin with no resistance 'cause that's just the broken hex collar going round and round. If you can see all the thread on the plug clear of the hole then it'll just be carbon build up holding them in, that's hopefully what you've got and a good yank after soaking should do the trick.

[WINGAS]

Thankfully chazola, the whole body is spinning. The extractor split nuts ought be here by the weekend.

For now the temps are ranging from 0 to 10 F or -15 or so C. So I'm driving the gas hungry winter beastie truck.

[WINGAS]

Well the "Jesus" nuts arent going to do a thing, as there is no room yet to either slip the nut in , or grab any threads. ( "Jesus" clips hold shft rods to Muncie boxes - and you gotta pray they stay on - in this case - pray the new tool works).

Going to r&r the vacuum pump while the fan's off, put the fan back on etc, and maybe get some heat in the thing before I get a slide hammer out.

Or punt and find a real mechanic to help out!

ARRRGGGHH! the one thing about these "odd" cars. Now the evaporator will STB this summer.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by WINGAS

Well the "Jesus" nuts arent going to do a thing, as there is no room yet to either slip the nut in , or grab any threads. ( "Jesus" clips hold shft rods to Muncie boxes - and you gotta pray they stay on - in this case - pray the new tool works).

Going to r&r the vacuum pump while the fan's off, put the fan back on etc, and maybe get some heat in the thing before I get a slide hammer out.

Or punt and find a real mechanic to help out!

ARRRGGGHH! the one thing about these "odd" cars. Now the evaporator will STB this summer.

The Mechanic would have to do the same thing.

Is it possible to post a pic?

[Zulfiqar]

dont install the engine fan, spray some carbon eater like Marvel oil and start the engine with manifold removed and wait it to heat up when its about 100C on the gauge, coax it out - it might shoot out on its own too - place some padding or rubber to take the impact of the ejecting plug - the cylinder will immediately go dead as it ejects.