Does anyone know what diameter the port in the injection pump for installing the timing AB indicator is? I have access to a bosch AB light but fear it is too large. Before I go to the trouble of removing the plug and making a mess, I would like to know if it will fit.

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

Well, didnt fit or I had the wrong port. One thing I noticed was that the picture of the pump in the startek manual is totaly different than my pump. The picture shows a larger port and it appears to be bolted to the side of the pump. Mine is cast into the pump and the port is quite small. Only 8-10mm, any thoughts on this? Has anyone timed their pump with an AB light?

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

I think there is a description of how to use the A&B Light in the Links:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The Timing Pin shown at Pelican Parts is made for the Fuel Injection Pumps with the Small cast in Port.
Pelican Parts.com - Diesel Injection Pump Lock Pin, Early Model

The Large Port Fuel Injection Pumps also have a locking Pin but of course it looks different. Due to the design of the large holed locking Pin you can use it to time your Fuel Injection Pump by rotating the IP until it locks.

Howeve, the Eraly Style Locking Pin is made differently I don't know if it is possible to rotate the IP while it is on the Engine and have the Pin lock properly. I have not read of any of our Members using one of these. Also there is no instructions in the Mercedes Service Manual on the CDs that shows how to use it.

I as Hunter if it was used the same as the newer larger holed Locking Pin and He said yess. That means when you use it; just like the A&B light it times at 15 degrees After Top Dead Center not at 24 degrees BTDC.

Both pins are made for locking the IP before Removal and keeping it locked while you insert the IP.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Would it be possible to use a drill bit with a bushing to lock the pump? Does it fit into a hole on the inside of the pump or fit over a point?

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

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.... you have to be..... careful

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Attached Thumbnails

 

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Look at the Pic of the Pelican Tool; it has a slot, it is not pointed.

Someone way back in 2007-2008 said you couls use a 7/16" Bolt with a slot down the Center acrossed the diameter. However, He was ridiculed for that as at that time few People knew there was a Timint Tool for the older Pumps and did not believe his instructions.

It is an obscure thread and I am not sure 7/16" was the size.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I could see it working if fabricated accurately. Drip timing seems to be open to interpretation. I have never done it myself but grasp the concept. If you watch youtube videos on it, the drip rate differs greatly depending on who is doing it. Lining up points to degrees is exact, also easier.

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.

There is a plus or minus concerning the Timing degrees.

As far as the Drip timing being open to interpretation that is not true. The Manual has X amount of drops pre an amount of time.
From what I have read 4 thing screw people up.

The don't mark the block and IP Flange so they can return the Pump to where it was if they have a problem.

They try to rotate the IP with the Fuel Injection Hard Lines attached.

They rotate the Pump too much; it only needs to be slightly nudged a bit at a time.

They don't keep the Fuel Pressure even and that creates faster or slower drips. If you nudge/move the IP a bit and then start pumping on the Hand Primer a lot and then keep pumping you will be able to keep the pressure even as you watch the drips you get an accurate amount of drips.

When I used to work in a Fuel Injection Shop you put a Degree Wheel on the Drive End of the Fuel Injection Pump and each of the IP Element is drip timed at specific degrees. That times each Element to the IP Camshaft.
That is the most common method on may makes of inline Fuel Injection Pump.

A less common method was dimensional using a Dial Indicator setup on the Element Plungers or a Depth Micrometer. Catipillar is one of the Companies that likes to use the Indicator. (For timing on the Engine they often use an timing Pin.)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel