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Axle shafts W126
I am FINALLY getting around to addressing the issues on my '82 300SD. One of the issues is the rear axles. Currently on the car are the original ones. No noises, but boots are deeply cracked, but not leaking. I have discussed with a member here to reboot the axles, but Advance shows NEW axles for $70:
Buy ToughOne New CV Axle Shaft Assembly NCV72055 at Advance Auto Parts I would like new as opposed to rebooted, BUT.... The description never really says they fit, or what information is needed to get the ones that do fit. Does anyone have experience with these axles. I remember something about some running changes to the axles, but can't remember the details. I "thought" all the changes were compatible with each other. "Fit of this part varies by vehicle & equipment specs" is the note that causes me to wonder---what does this axle fit? Do I need other parts to make this axle work on my car? |
... search chinese axles... you will find that they do not fit well, and once you get them in, they fail quickly...
NOTHING beats the quality and longevity of the original MB axles. best to pull yours, mark which side is which, clean them and reboot and reoil them. then install them on opposite sides from whence they came. easy good for another 300K or until the boots begin to age again... |
Fowler, they will either fit or not fit. There is no change or adjustment the user can do with them. There are the two types of axles used. The one type uses a ring of bolts and bolts up with those (I think) six bolts just to the outside of the differential. I think Mercedes calls that style "homokenetic". The other style, more generally in use, the axle shaft slides into the differential and is held in place with a "snap ring". So if you see the ring of bolts just out side of the differential, (behind the inner boot), that is what you need. The picture in the ad shows the other style, held in place by the snap ring or circlet. With that style, you should replace the two differential seals, and of course differential lube. Not a difficult job, anyone can do it.
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I also think VSTECH is correct. For $99.00 you get $99.00 of junk, or at least inferior parts. I would make every attempt to get someone to overhaul your axles with new lube and new boots, and if they look good reverse the side they are on and use your own. At the same time I would like to see some forum member put these "new ones on" and give us a good report.
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many users here have tried the "new" cheap axles... and all have had failures in under 2K miles...
like I said, do a search for CHINESE axles... |
Here is a wonderful write up by D Morrison on how to do the job.
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Axles |
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If you don't want to try rebooting them, send them to CVJ in Denver and just have them rebooted. You'll get your original axles back and then you can reverse them as vstech suggested.
I wouldn't trade in good cores for another axle of unknown quality. Once they're gone, they're gone. |
... I rent the rebooting tool, I reboot your axles, and I sell rebooted axles that I pull myself from parts cars.
so... either way there! |
Some of the failures as I remember were the 6 bolts got loose after a few thousand miles. removing the bolts and adding loc-tite should solve the problem.
Some of the guys had trouble getting the splines into the Hub. There are two type of axles, Annular and Homokenetic. Annular is a two piece axle. there is a stubb piece that stays in the axle when ever another Annular axle is replaced. remove the 6 bolts on the out side of the Differential at the flange and remove. the stubb is held in the differential with a "C" clip Homokenetic is a one piece axle. the Differential cover has to be removed to remove the "C" clip before removing the axle. Both type of axles are held into the hub with a 13mm bolt. Annular and Homokenetic can be used together. There are a lot of of good axles on W126`s in the PNP yards. Charlie |
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The Axles that look similar on each end and have what I call Cans on both ends are Homokinetic Axles. |
another problem with the cheapo repops is the diff end is not machined well, fitment of the spacers isn't correct, and they are made of substandard metals...
yes, the diff end hub bolts are also poorly fastened, some have cleaned and used the hub with loctite to prevent the bolts from coming out... |
Sounds like rebooting is the best way to go.
Thanks, all. |
"Annular and Homokenetic can be used together.
There are a lot of of good axles on W126`s in the PNP yards." This is interesting since my 83 SD also has deep cracks on the axle boots. The axles are of the Homokenetic type. I found very little information for the interchangeability of axles between different years of W126. There are plenty newer gasser W126 in the PNP yards which has the annular type. Is it OK to put a late 80 or early 90 W126 gasser axle on 83 SD? Can I change from Homokenetic to Annular axel type if I also pull the annular stub parts from inside the diff? Thanks, Shane |
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