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  #1  
Old 04-09-2013, 01:05 AM
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Normal operating temperature of an OM602 NA

The temp gauge in my 190 is usually reading around 100C (212F) when its fully warmed up and I'm sitting in traffic. It is starting to get hot out now so I am a bit concerned that this is way to high seeing as our Sprinter (OM612) stays around 185F-190F when fully warmed. Any clue on what the actual temp should be? Any ideas on why it would be so high? Coolant levels look fine but its hard to tell with the tank because its no longer translucent. Oil level is correct also. Could I be getting a bad reading from the sensor?
I have had some issues lately with electronics because the PO seemed to wire things backwards (had the heat blowing through the side vents with AC blowing through the center vents) or had incorrect components installed (had a blue top relay intended for Euro-only option of intake heaters where the auxiliary fan relay (multipurpose metal top relay) was supposed to be).

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  #2  
Old 04-09-2013, 02:02 AM
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I would say that something odd is going on with your 190D. On my OM602 the temperature gauge pegs at 80C reliably every day that I drive it. Now, your issue could still be something electrical: the major problem that my W201 had was bad solder joints on the instrument/speedo panel. This caused no end of weirdness, from gauge needles flipping around to alternator light intermittency to turn signals affecting other electrical functions. I eventually pulled it out and re-soldered all the dodgy connections and that put an end to my electrical troubles. You may indeed have something similar going on.

Kurt
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2013, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastropodus View Post
I would say that something odd is going on with your 190D. On my OM602 the temperature gauge pegs at 80C reliably every day that I drive it. Now, your issue could still be something electrical: the major problem that my W201 had was bad solder joints on the instrument/speedo panel. This caused no end of weirdness, from gauge needles flipping around to alternator light intermittency to turn signals affecting other electrical functions. I eventually pulled it out and re-soldered all the dodgy connections and that put an end to my electrical troubles. You may indeed have something similar going on.

Kurt
Once I get around to pulling the instrument cluster and fixing the odometer and glow plug light I will look into that. Reading other threads about overheating diesels makes me think it could be the water pump or the radiator but I would doubt its the radiator because that was recently replaced. Will check that water pump tomorrow though.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2013, 07:53 PM
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Still not sure what is wrong

The car still gets hot and we can't figure out why. The clutch fan is good, we tested it today. The auxiliary fan runs off of the AC but did not engage at full speed (which we know it will) when we forced the car to get up to 105C today (blocked off radiator, it took forever to get up there so we don't think its the thermostat) so that 3 pin temp sensor might be bad. Any ideas on why the engine would run so hot (around 100 when idling)?
I am probably going to do an acid flush soon but I don't know how that will affect engine temp.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2013, 08:36 PM
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"Thinking" that it's not the thermostat is not the same as KNOWING it's not the thermostat. Pull it out and test it. In fact just replace it anyway, it's a cheap part and you've at least ruled that out. Plus with doing an acid flush you have the perfect opportunity to do so.

Your AC problem is due to the monovalve. When it leaks it lets heat in through the sides all the time. I would replace this too when the system is dry.

Other than that check for proper coolant levels and inspect your radiator to make sure it doesn't have any leaks. I discovered that my E320 had a pinhole leak that caused it to run hot quite regularly. You can get the system pressure tested at most shops.
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:50 AM
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Doesn't the OM602 has an electric fan clutch? It is either off or on, so the temperature fluctuates: it rises until the temperature rises until the fan is switched on, then it drops about 10 degrees C.
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:05 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
The car still gets hot and we can't figure out why. The clutch fan is good, we tested it today. The auxiliary fan runs off of the AC but did not engage at full speed (which we know it will) when we forced the car to get up to 105C today (blocked off radiator, it took forever to get up there so we don't think its the thermostat) so that 3 pin temp sensor might be bad. Any ideas on why the engine would run so hot (around 100 when idling)?
I am probably going to do an acid flush soon but I don't know how that will affect engine temp.
Replace the thermostat.

If the issue persists = it is probably a bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head.


.
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  #8  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:49 AM
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Search the forum really well as I recall a somewhat recent thread about the running temp of 190d's where most appeared to operate closer to 90C-100C than 80C. I don't think the fans are set up to kick in at 80C. Mine has always run in the 85-90C range without any signs of head gasket failure.
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2013, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
Search the forum really well as I recall a somewhat recent thread about the running temp of 190d's where most appeared to operate closer to 90C-100C than 80C. I don't think the fans are set up to kick in at 80C. Mine has always run in the 85-90C range without any signs of head gasket failure.
The fans ARE set up to kick in at 100 and 110. In spite of that, in cooler weather my 601 runs at 80 most of the time until weather gets warm near 90, and then it runs at 100 most of the time. I've test both fans. They both work as intended. I've NEVER seen nor heard my fans run, unless I short them out to test.
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  #10  
Old 04-11-2013, 10:51 AM
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I've noticed, across all the MB's that I've worked on and owned, 80C is where the temp is most of the time. Only under extremely warm conditions or considerable AC usage/heat will the temp climb above that. Anything else...you've probably got something wrong.

my vote is for a coolant flush and thermostat replacement. How long ago was the radiator replaced?
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2013, 12:36 PM
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My 601 runs around 82C normally (new radiator), haven't driven it in much warm weather yet....I guess I will find out
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
I've noticed, across all the MB's that I've worked on and owned, 80C is where the temp is most of the time. Only under extremely warm conditions or considerable AC usage/heat will the temp climb above that. Anything else...you've probably got something wrong.

my vote is for a coolant flush and thermostat replacement. How long ago was the radiator replaced?
It was replaced by the PO in 09 but the car sat for a year when the transmission went, but was regularly started and warmed up during that time so I assume its still good. But yes, assuming is not knowing.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
It was replaced by the PO in 09 but the car sat for a year when the transmission went, but was regularly started and warmed up during that time so I assume its still good. But yes, assuming is not knowing.
Was it replaced with a new radiator? Does it have a brand on it? Not that I've had a run in with bad radiators or have heard of such thing. I've only ever bought Behr or Nissens but I am aware that there are other brands out there and don't know of their quality.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
Was it replaced with a new radiator? Does it have a brand on it? Not that I've had a run in with bad radiators or have heard of such thing. I've only ever bought Behr or Nissens but I am aware that there are other brands out there and don't know of their quality.
It was replaced with a new radiator, I can't find any details on the brand in the receipt or on the radiator itself, all I can tell you it was a $358 part and was done at a reputable indy Mercedes garage in Gainsville, FL so I would hope they used a quality one but that is anyone's guess.
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2013, 12:09 PM
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FYI

There are two radiator choices, Behr and Nissens.
Both are good quality.


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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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