Still trying to figure this all out. Am I correct in that if I rotate the engine camshaft to 15degrees ATDC and assuming the timing chain has no stretch, then I could anticipate the IP cam would essentially be at or very near its lockable position?

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"Still trying to figure this all out. Am I correct in that if I rotate the engine camshaft to 15degrees ATDC and assuming the timing chain has no stretch, then I could anticipate the IP cam would essentially be at or very near its lockable position?"

My understand is - yes. When I rotated the engine to 15 deg ATDC - the locking blade was very near the center of the service hole.

-John

You are correct in your analysis however it also shows a problem.

at 15 ATDC the pointer should be exactly in the middle of the port. If not then the chain is bad or the pump was mistimed or if your car has a moveable TDC pointer on the block - it has been incorrectly installed.

Simple question: When removing the chain tensioner, do you wrench on the hex nut/bolt on the end of the tensioner, or the inner larger nut/bolt?

You unscrew the large hex, its 32mm I believe.

Thanks Z. Is there anything I need to know before removing it? Does it just simply unscrew and come out as one unit (no springs, parts, etc flying everywhere)? Anything to know or consider when it comes to time to reinstall it?

I need help. Instruction #7 states "withdraw locking pin (arrow) and remove mounting basket" How do you remove the locking pin? I've removed the chain tensioner and cam sprocket and have plenty of slack in the chain, but I can't remove the timing device until I remove the locking pin to allow the chain to fully slack off. Please help ASAP. Thanks

OK, got the locking pin and was able to install the new IP timing device. I've put everything back together. It will start, but not after 5-7 seconds of cranking (and it sounds like it is trying to start, but just takes time until it fires up). The car has been parked for 3-4 months. I have to give it some gas pedal to keep it running and let it run for 30 minutes or so. At 1000rpm and above (revving to 2-3k rpm), the engine sounds very smooth, but once it gets down below about 700-800rpm it will quickly dies and shuts off. Again, each time this happens it takes 5-7 of cranking to get it to fire up. It won't idle on its own without some pedal, so I haven't tried to run it around the block or anything, just running in park in the driveway.

QUESTION - Either 1) the timing got screwed up during my novice work or 2) it has just been sitting too long and needs some more running time to flush out any gunk or get the injectors back in good working order. I'm guessing #1. I'm assuming I haven't missed reassembling any vacuum lines...could this be a vacuum issue?

Please let me know what you think??????????

During the course of all this work did you remove the injection pump?

If so, did you purge the injection lines properly by cracking all of the fittings at the injectors until the air was bled out? If not, it can be difficult or impossible to "self purge" the injectors due to the cushion of air in the lines.

Update - I started it up again a little while ago and now it will at least hold idle on its own. It is not a smooth idle, it kinda goes rhythmically up and down, but at least will idle without shutting off.

KarTek - No, I didn't remove the injection pump. I removed/replaced the injection pump timing device and vacuum pump, but I didn't mess with the injection pump itself. Thanks for your thoughts.