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  #1  
Old 04-19-2013, 04:17 AM
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air in hydraulic clutch

I have problem with air in hidraulic clutch (cylinders,pipes).
I can not get it out. What is the way to do it?

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Old 04-19-2013, 07:29 AM
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As I've got an automatic I can't say for sure but I think some people here say to bleed from the bottom up.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:48 AM
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I have got instructions to connect hose from right front brake cylinder bleed screw and the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw. Then to act as bleeding the brake.

At first the hose has to be filled with oil from brake.

At the end i have to remember to close front brake cylinder bleed screw also.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:50 AM
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It would be advisable to do a good flush of the old Brake fluid from the brake system so you are not adding dirty contaminated fluid into your new Clutch components.

It would then be good to do a power flush from the top down to flush out the Clutch system.

The FSM mentiones to bleed the Clutch from the bottom up, and to connect a hose from the R/F Brake Bleed Nipple up to the Clutch Bleed Nipple. then open both Nipples and pump the Brake peddle.
This will push the trapped air up to the Reservor.

Be sure to purge the air from the hose before connecting it to the Slave Cylinder, or you will be adding more air to the system.

This Youtube Video is a good explination of how to bleed the system using a pump oil can.

BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube


Charlie
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:36 AM
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With connection between from the R/F Brake Bleed Nipple up to the Clutch Bleed Nipple
I did no noticed improvement. So I took longer hose and connected Brake Bleed Nipple to pipe on main clutch cylinder and did bleeding. And then i got oil from slave Clutch Bleed Nipple.

Then I connected pipe back to main cylinder. But I could get air from it.
So I took cylinder down from chassis, bend the pipe that I could turn cylinder in up, took cylinder piston out , put oil into cylinder and turn piston back in. I did rotate piston while pushing it in to avoid damage on front gum. While i had it down i did inspection of piston and i have suspect that i have problem on valve on the top of piston. It is not moving. So oil does not move from center of cylinder to front side of cylinder when piston is turning back.

Then after hundreds of pushes on pedal i can put in gear but pedal is not returning back from down position itch time.
I have problems with main clutch cylinder as i had it before.
I have intention to by new one today.
( I have already got new slave cylinder)
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Last edited by pr2501; 04-22-2013 at 09:07 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-22-2013, 10:52 AM
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I dont quite understand what your situation is now but read this thread and get yourself a squirt can and forget about using the brake slave also the video that Charlie recommended is very helpful.

Note on clutch bleeding
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Old 04-22-2013, 12:36 PM
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easy method.

This is an easy method I came up with.
Fit a lengthy clear tube tightly around the slave bleeder. Make a loop with the tubing around something like exhaust or transmission bracket. The loop should resemble a very loose knot so it doesn't slip off. Loosen the bleeder. I usually have a box wrench on the bleeder before I attach the tube.
Fill the brake res. and pump clutch until no air can be seen in the clear tube. Make sure to not run the res. dry. Once all the air is gone leave the clutch in the up position. You should see no bubbles in the clear tube. Close the bleeder screw with the tubing still attached. make sure not to disrupt tube or air will go back up the bleeder. Once it is closed check your pedal for pressure. You may have to pump rapidly for a minute to build pressure.
This works like a charm every time for me. It takes very little time. The tube with the loop makes it so the brake fluid stays in the tube and keeps the air from coming up the tube when it drains. That way when the clutch pulls the fluid back into the system when you pull it up before closing the bleeder there is no air.
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2013, 02:30 PM
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Thank you.
I apreciate your help.
My main clutch cylinder is bad. I am sure.
I will buy new one. Give me one week.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2013, 07:14 AM
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C.Doner thank you for the loop metode. I did it in a minute because i had oil in pipe from before. So i had just to make bleeding of the new cylinder.

Thank you.
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2013, 07:34 AM
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I use a reservoir pressurizing type Power Brake bleeder to bleed Mercedes clutches. Since the clutch shares the reservoir with the brakes it works.


Just put the pressure bleeder on the reservoir, pump it up, jump under the car and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder.


The last two mb clutches I did, we got bled in under 5 minutes.

I'm on my phone so I can't post a link but power bleeders are pretty reasonably priced, or you can make one yourself. Worth having around.
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  #11  
Old 05-01-2013, 09:58 AM
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The procedure for bleeding the clutch on an MB van is considerably easier than in the sedan, given the more standard location of the MC on the firewall. Simply pump the clutch, hold it down and loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Close the bleed screw and repeat until the air is gone. This is easiest with an assistant pumping and holding the clutch while you work below at the slave cylinder.

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