Ok. Low maintenance....I still don't need it. I have a mitivac but have not very often found a way to use it productively. Not something needed IMHO by most hobbiests, very useful for a professional like yourself of course.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have run into trouble with the two man system on older mc's as previously discussed. When bleeding brakes I use the mighty vac or I do the pumping and keep the pedal in normal operating range.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

nah, I still don't buy it. ANYBODY who does their own maintenance needs a power bleeder.

everybody puts off bleeding their brakes. it's time consuming, requires a helper to push the pedal, and can often result in a damaged master cylinder from the full travel...
a power bleeder is a simple one man setup, and it's a no brainer to use. literally, FULLY flush the entire brake system in 10 minutes. TEN!

$40 WELL spent for a motive bleeder, or $20 and some elbow grease to build your own from a garden sprayer...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Yes sir,

nothing beats the power bleed, specially in our cars which have ABS too, if air gets into the ABS motor - you are going to have a real bad time bleeding via the two man method.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I use a mityvac. Others have had problems with them, but I haven't. I suspect it's because I close the bleed screw while still pulling vacuum.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

New master cylinder was the ticket. Guess the old one was tore up inside from the bleeding process I used. I'm guessing a power bleed would have prevented that failure, but honestly I'd rather find that the MC was failure prone during hyperextension of the shaft during a traditional bleed then during a panic stop.

Brakes are still different feeling, a little softer than before but they'll stop the car with authority if asked. Probably this is how it should normally feel. I feel the bias is too heavy to the front though.

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Own:
1970 Mercedes 250c, 1976 International Scout II, 1982 Mercedes 240d, 1997 Honda Accord Wagon, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 2009 Mazda5.
Owned:
1974 International 100 pickup, 1975 International Scout II, 1981 Mercedes 240d, 1985 Mercedes 300SD, 1988 Honda Accord, 1988 Ford Thunderbird, 1991 Honda Accord, 1996 Geo Metro, 1996 Ford F150, 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, 1997 Honda Accord, 2003 Acura TL-S, 2003 Yamaha V-star.

The brakes on these cars do feel different, the pedal is a bit softer than american and japanese cars but the car stops like you just threw an anchor on the road if you hit the pedal hard.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

fill master cyl up and bleed master cyl first crack open the two lines and top off fluid , now go to rt rear wheel and bleed, then go to left rear, rt front, then left front keeping fluid in the master all the time. you should not have any air in the system if you do master cyl is bad.