Beware! The hinge at the top of my accelerator pedal broke while driving. It appears the "living hinge" separated and consequently, the pedal barely increased engine speed above idle. Fortunately I wasn't in heavy traffic and could pull over without incident.
How is the bottom of the pedal attached to the floor? Does anyone know if a new pedal assembly is available?

Greg

Common failure if it's a 126 chassis. Yes, replacements are available. Couple of screws to the floor if I remember right.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Not sure if there all the same or not but mine was just attached with a plastic clip to the bottom hinge. Pull out the clip and out comes the pedal.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

He mentioned that it was the top of the pedal so I'm guessing that this was the plastic connector that attaches to the metal bar. Nothing to do but replace the whole pedal. I've had to do it twice before.

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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."

I once replaced the rubber cover & upper hinge with a "new" aftermarket
product and it started to fail after a year. While I was driving this new pedal
stuck to the floor and I had to reach down and pull it up by hand
while stepping on the break The plastic of the upper hinge was just too stiff.

Pulled one off of a low mileage car at PNP and it was very obvious that the
quality of rubber and plastic was superior to the new one. I have had
no problems after replacing this part with the used one.

Be careful out there,
Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

That portion of my go pedal was broken when I got my car in 08. IIRC the replacement was under $10. You remove the floor mat and then you'll see the one clip that holds the pedal in.

It was a tad stiff initially, but it seems to have worn in nicely.

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Thanks guys for your input. I'll take a closer look and report back.

It's also possible to simply remove the pedal altogether and just use the metal rod. Aesthetically displeasing but totally functional.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Went to the Pick-n-Pull this morning and found a '90 420SEL with the go pedal intact. Removal was not as difficult as originally thought. I didn't realize that the floor pad has an open slot that facilitates access to the bottom of the pedal by sliding the pad to the left. The bottom horse shoe clip was easily removed with pliers. The other trick once the clip is out is rotating the pedal to align the funky keyhole slot to separate the top of the pedal from the actuator rod. Installation is the reverse of removal. A five minute job once you know what you're up against. A clever design actually...