Axel CV boots - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

martureo · #31 05-02-2013, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded

Since VSTech stated that you can doo them without axel removal, I'll
likely buy a boot gun and 3001 boots and do both cars that way when the time comes. 2 choice CVJ axels.

I might add that I bought the cone from Astoria (because I didn't want to buy the gun) and I've done at least four sets of shafts. It's pretty easy, especially if you use your weight to put the boots on.

Secondly, removing the shafts (they aren't axles btw) isn't that bad. The only hard parts are removing the c-rings and rethreading the bolt through the hub. Plus, you're forced to renew the fluid in your diff and inspect it. Something which isn't that bad to HAVE to do.

Stretch · #32 05-02-2013, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

I might add that I bought the cone from Astoria (because I didn't want to buy the gun) and I've done at least four sets of shafts. It's pretty easy, especially if you use your weight to put the boots on.

...

I'm amazed you can do that - I guess the secret is in the boots rather than the weight because =>

I'm six feet one
weigh two hundred and ten
A long hair, real fair skin
A long legs and I'm-a out-a sight...

...and I still couldn't do it with the so called flexx split before you can spit boots I could get over here...

martureo · #33 05-02-2013, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I'm amazed you can do that - I guess the secret is in the boots rather than the weight because =>

I'm six feet one
weigh two hundred and ten
A long hair, real fair skin
A long legs and I'm-a out-a sight...

...and I still couldn't do it with the so called flexx split before you can spit boots I could get over here...

I'm 5'11" and ~240.
I put the boot in hot water to soak for 10 minutes prior to installing. Then I put one end of the half shaft into a hole in a work table so it's standing upright. The work table surface is just about at my waist. I dry the boot off really quickly with a towel, lube up the funnel with gear oil and flip the boot inside out. Then with two shop towels or clean rags I grab the boot with my hands and tuck my fingertips inside. While making sure both flexible portions of the shaft are straight as possible I squat, letting my weight do the work.

The only boot I've ever failed to do this with was a Astoria 3000. I've since used 3001's and haven't had a problem since.

The first time I tried I was using half Astoria 3000 and half Dormans. I ripped three Dormans and had to make a second attempt on one of the Astoria 3000.

Diesel911 · #34 05-02-2013, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

I might add that I bought the cone from Astoria (because I didn't want to buy the gun) and I've done at least four sets of shafts. It's pretty easy, especially if you use your weight to put the boots on.

Secondly, removing the shafts (they aren't axles btw) isn't that bad. The only hard parts are removing the c-rings and rethreading the bolt through the hub. Plus, you're forced to renew the fluid in your diff and inspect it. Something which isn't that bad to HAVE to do.

From what I haver read having a Cone made for the job is much better than the ATF Funnel; especially if you do the job by Yourself.
And, then not all ATF Funnels are the same; one type might work OK and another not.

Diesel911 · #35 05-02-2013, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded

Since VSTech stated that you can doo them without axel removal, I'll
likely buy a boot gun and 3001 boots and do both cars that way when the time comes. 2 choice CVJ axels.

If you plan to fill them with Oil that could work OK.

However, if you pan to use Grease I think it will be harder to pack it in ther with the Axle on the Car.

NoSparkNeeded · #36 05-02-2013, 09:17 PM

I was going to attempt to squirt synthetic gear oil with a turkey baster syringe, Think that might work? Slip it under the boot.

Diesel911 · #37 05-02-2013, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded

I was going to attempt to squirt synthetic gear oil with a turkey baster syringe, Think that might work? Slip it under the boot.

I don't remember who but someone has done that. But I don't think it was on the Car.
The Big Syringes that people use to Inject Flavoring into Meat would slide under the Boot easier. The one I have has a needle with a hole on each side of the needle near the tip. It might be helpful to blunt the Point.

I bought the Syringe at one of the 99 Cent stores but have not seen any there lately.

Shortsguy1 · #38 05-03-2013, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

...(they aren't axles btw) ...

The MB Electronics Parts Catalog calls them axle shafts, so I think the OP has chosen an acceptable term.

Shortsguy1 · #39 05-03-2013, 12:48 AM

In post 17 of this thread, Vstech said that you would only be able to use grease, not oil, if you did the boots while still on the car. But Diesel911 suggests the opposite might be true in post 35. Would either of you be willing to clarify, as I am in a similar general situation to the OP? Thanks.

Stretch · #40 05-03-2013, 02:23 AM

I get the impression that the key to using flexx boots is in the boot itself. These Astoria 3001 boots seem to be the best choice.

Whether you use a cone or a boot gun seems to be personal choice; though the cone needs lubrication. Though trust me with the wrong type of boots you are going to have a nightmare.

Filling an axle can with the correct amount and grade of oil ensures that parts within get lubricated. I personally wouldn't trust no stinking flexx boot to hold oil - however, packing grease into an assembled axle can isn't easy if you want grease to get to the back of the mechanism. You need to push it really hard into the back of the can - way past the spider and the ball bearings of a homokinetic axle. This is messy - really messy.

Filling a boot fitted to the axle with a syringe seems to me to be a plausible method so long as you can gain access to the highest point. I must say, however, that if the cans are corroded and your boots are not too flexible this method may not be as easy as suggested.

My personal feeling - and reaction to flexx boots - is that they are not really an appropriate fix. I've gone through the extra effort to cut cans and replace the conventional boots. I've also decided to go for grease instead of oil. I'm hoping that this intensive full on fix gives the longest life and least amount of trouble in the future. It has been a pain in the arse getting them this far though...

whunter · #41 05-03-2013, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded

I was going to attempt to squirt synthetic gear oil with a turkey baster syringe, Think that might work? Slip it under the boot.

I have done this many times, at customer request.

IMO: It can be done, BUT my experience:
* Cut the small band.
* Refill the boot with oil.
* Replace the small band.

Expect 90% of customers back within hours - three months.

The return / come back issue will be:
# Leaking boot.
# Shredded boot.
# Failed or howling / clunking CV joint.

.

Diesel911 · #42 05-03-2013, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

In post 17 of this thread, Vstech said that you would only be able to use grease, not oil, if you did the boots while still on the car. But Diesel911 suggests the opposite might be true in post 35. Would either of you be willing to clarify, as I am in a similar general situation to the OP? Thanks.

I ask the OP what if He planned to used Grease or Oil and He made his choice. I suggested the Syringe to add the Oil because I thought the Needle would fit better under the Boot.
Something I did not mention is the Syringe I believe will have measuerments on.
I did not recommend that He do the Boot Job with the Axles on the Car.

If it was Me I would pull the Axles off and use Grease; and that is what I did when I re-booted mine.

Putting a Boot on while the CV Axle is still on the Car is not something I would do unless I was stuck on the Road somewhere and there was one Boot ripped.

Vstech will have to comment on His reason only Grease should be used.

I can remmember in one of the Threads Astoria was unsure if their Boots would hold Oil because they are thinner than the Stock Boots where the Clamps go. Less Rubber to compress and seal.
But, I believe some have used Oil anyway with no issues I have read of.

vstech · #43 05-03-2013, 10:30 AM

The reason I said rebooting on the car is due to the oil running out when filling things. with grease, you could pack it all in, then slide on the boot, and clamp it in place.

Astoria boots hold up very nicely to oil in them. 90% of the axles I reboot I refill with synthetic gear oil. zero leakers so far.

Stevo · #44 05-03-2013, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

I have done this many times, at customer request.

IMO: It can be done, BUT my experience:
* Cut the small band.
* Refill the boot with oil.
* Replace the small band.

Expect 90% of customers back within hours - three months.

The return / come back issue will be:
# Leaking boot.
# Shredded boot.
# Failed or howling / clunking CV joint.

.

EXCEPT....90% of customers back within hours - three months., Wow, thats not a very good recommendation for squirting up under the boot.

Shortsguy1 · #45 05-03-2013, 05:33 PM

Perhaps Whunter can clarify, but I think he was referring to JUST adding oil into an old boot. I assume that if you start fresh with a new boot, clean axle shaft, and inject oil, the results would have to be better. So I don't think it was exactly what the OP was planning to do.