Axel CV boots - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #46 05-03-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Perhaps Whunter can clarify, but I think he was referring to JUST adding oil into an old boot. I assume that if you start fresh with a new boot, clean axle shaft, and inject oil, the results would have to be better. So I don't think it was exactly what the OP was planning to do.

Right, I think he was just adding oil but I would think that would have a better success rate, guess not.

Diesel911 · #47 05-03-2013, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Perhaps Whunter can clarify, but I think he was referring to JUST adding oil into an old boot. I assume that if you start fresh with a new boot, clean axle shaft, and inject oil, the results would have to be better. So I don't think it was exactly what the OP was planning to do.

I think it also depends on how long the Hunter's Customer drove without lube.

Whiskeydan · #48 05-04-2013, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

not really, the shims are differential specific, but some cheapo axles require modification to get them to fit.
all axles from MB have the exact dimentions from axle hub to snap ring. but the diff gearing can be in various places due to preload settings. the shims need to stay with the differential, not the axle.

MB axle dimensions vary greatly! Shims are specific to each axle/diff combination.

Measuring 'snap ring groove' to 'flat where spacer sits' and you will find no two axles the same. This has been discussed, verified before.

NoSparkNeeded · #49 05-05-2013, 05:51 PM

This turned into a long thread. I will wait until I see seepage on either of our diesels.( I see surface cracks on the SD, however I poked at them gently with a toothpick and the aren't deep and not leaking. The TD is better.) At that point I'll buy a FexxGun. Looks like I can get one for 200 bucks. Then I'll get Astoria 3001 boots, and a meat injection syringe.
I'll try to do the boots on the car, injecting synthetic gear oil. Not sure
how much gear oil should go into the boot though, yet. If the first car lasts for months, then I'll do the next car when it needs it. If not I'll do CVJ on both the cars and chalk up the Flexx to learning.
I will take pics and post when I do it. Thanks Ya'll. If anyone thinks of anything else please post.

barry12345 · #50 05-05-2013, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Perhaps Whunter can clarify, but I think he was referring to JUST adding oil into an old boot. I assume that if you start fresh with a new boot, clean axle shaft, and inject oil, the results would have to be better. So I don't think it was exactly what the OP was planning to do.

You have to catch the cv joint early if it is going dry. Once it is clunking all the time is too late. First symtoms probably are experienced after miles on the highway. Ignor them at your expense.

Better even to add oil to old non clunking joints as a preventative function. Large syringe with a small plastic tube better perhaps at reduction of stretching the small end of the boot.

Stevo · #51 05-05-2013, 11:39 PM

For getting under the boot I soldered a small diameter,12 inch long, piece of copper tubing to a grease gun. I haven't tried it yet but it should work fine,

whunter · #52 05-06-2013, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Perhaps Whunter can clarify, but I think he was referring to JUST adding oil into an old boot. I assume that if you start fresh with a new boot, clean axle shaft, and inject oil, the results would have to be better. So I don't think it was exactly what the OP was planning to do.

Disturbing an old boot in the seal / clamping frequently causes problems.

.