Oil Change and Rinse With Clean Diesel - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Benz Kid · #1 05-07-2013, 06:16 AM

I have a 300d 1983 and had a ? about what i can do with the engine. I need to know if it will hurt to run diesel in the actual engine as a replacement for oil just for a couple minutes while idling. I just want to clean all the gum and gunk out of it because the previous owner lacked knowledge to do maintenance on it.
Thanks in advance.

We do it on the farm with our gas engines but i don't know about my diesel car i don't see why it would be different though

layback40 · #2 05-07-2013, 07:27 AM

Dont bother. The detergent in diesel engine oil will remove any build up.

Air&Road · #3 05-07-2013, 08:03 AM

The detergent in a diesel oil will take care of it IF you change oil frequently enough.

If it is gunked up, get the engine to operating temperature before draining the oil. Pull the plug while it is still hot. Remove the oil filter. Give it about five minuetes to drain and make sure you have enough room in the drain pan for another gallon, or change drain pans. Take a gallon of diesel fuel and pour it rapidly in the oil filler hole. This will flood the rocker area and take out a good bit of crud.

Then let the crankcase drain overnight, replace the filter and drain plug and fill it with a diesel blended oil such as Delo, Rotella or Delvac.

Draining the oil frequently enough, pulling the plug while the engine is hot and letting it drain overnight will help clean it out even without the diesel rinse.

DO NOT run the engine even for two seconds with diesel or any other solvent as a replacement for oil. The dead engine rinse is as much as the crankcase should see of diesel fuel. You should not do this with gas engines either, but a diesel is even more susceptible to damage due to the much higher compression ratio which will put much more load on the bearings even at idle.

Hope this helps.

pawoSD · #4 05-07-2013, 08:27 AM

I would not do ANY of that. I would change the oil with a high quality synthetic, drive it 3,000 miles, change again, then return to normal changes. It will clean up on its own with a good oil.

LNGfish · #5 05-07-2013, 08:48 AM

I'd not flush it with anything either. My Daughter had a car with allot of crud in it and regular oil changes got rid of most of it but doubt you will get it pristine.

Air&Road · #6 05-07-2013, 11:30 AM

My post has to do with oil change procedure. You can take it as far as you want. Even if you don't do the dead engine rinse, doing hot, overnight oil changes will help tremendously if the engine is crudded up inside. The rinse as I described will give your cleaning project a jump start. As long as you drain overnight afterward, there will not be enough residue from the diesel fuel to cause any harm of any kind.

You don't need a synthetic for adequate cleaning properties. The diesel blended oils have additional detergents that will get the job done as long as you are changing it frequently.

ROLLGUY · #7 05-07-2013, 11:54 AM

Agreed about letting the oil drain overnight. You would be surprised how much MORE oil will be in the drain pan if left to drain overnight versus only allowing to drain for a few minutes (like most all "Quick Lube" oil change establishments).

Jadavis · #8 05-07-2013, 12:31 PM

The issue with the diesel for engine oil trick is that if you have unintended fueling of the engine from the lubrication system you will have a bad day. In other words, you may get a runaway engine.

Jim

Diesel911 · #9 05-07-2013, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benz Kid

I have a 300d 1983 and had a ? about what i can do with the engine. I need to know if it will hurt to run diesel in the actual engine as a replacement for oil just for a couple minutes while idling. I just want to clean all the gum and gunk out of it because the previous owner lacked knowledge to do maintenance on it.
Thanks in advance.

We do it on the farm with our gas engines but i don't know about my diesel car i don't see why it would be different though

Yes it can.
If you read the Technical Manual it take a extra Liter of Oil to fill a new 617.952 Engine. What that means is there is a Liter of dirty Oil left inside of the Engine during an Oil Change. Likely mostly inside of the Fuel Injection Pump and the Oil Cooler.

That means if you added Diesel Fuel to the Crankcase Oil there is still going to be a Liter of mixed Dirty Oil and Diesel Fuel that will mix with the new Oil.

Personally I don't want anthing in My Oil that will thin it out and reduce the chance of good lubrication.

If your Engine really needs cleaning out switch to Synthetic Oil. Synthetic Oil has been even been known to free up sticky Piston Rings after 200-300 Miles of driving (so other Members have said).

Skid Row Joe · #10 05-07-2013, 01:02 PM

If you're going to add anything to the crankcase other than engine oil, I'd advise you to consider using kerosene rather than diesel fuel. The kerosene is a much more refined to clean solvent.

The introduction of a full synthetic fluid as your engine lubricating agent may improve the operation of your engine's innards as well.

cmac2012 · #11 05-11-2013, 11:35 PM

I just met a fine young woman who owns an '82 300D. She told me she just had an oil change after about 9K. Oops. She's not real savvy - the car still runs, not sure if she's out of the woods. At any rate, I was wondering if the right synthetic would give her a longer spell between changes. I use Castrol Syntec 5W-50 on my bimmer in part because the PO used it for about 125K miles. I like the 7-8 K space between oil changes.

But I can't seem to find a straight answer on what type of synthetic is acceptable for the 617. I'm going to have my 300SD running soon enough and I'll need to know for my sake as well.

Anyone know?

*EDIT*

Castrol site recommends 0W-30. 0W-30?

SAE 0W-30:

Quote:

Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low-temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40°F. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=8320010&contentId=6008016

duxthe1 · #12 05-12-2013, 12:47 AM

BG makes a product that you add to the engine oil and run for a few minutes before the oil change. Pretty good stuff, though it smells strongly of coconut. It would likely be better for the engine and work better towards the intended results too.

Diesel911 · #13 05-12-2013, 12:56 AM

"BG makes a product that you add to the engine oil."

The question is if you can't drain all of it out of the Engine is what is left to mix with the New Oil a good thing?

People who go for the extended Oil Change intervals often go through the expense of having a Oil Analysis done to help determine how long of an interval the can extend the Oil Change.
Once they know how long they can go they don't do any more Oil Analysis unless they want to.
The People wo do the abover are People most often using Synthetic Oil; partly because to Synthetic Oil costs more and they don't want to change it too soon.

.

Diesel911 · #14 05-12-2013, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

I just met a fine young woman who owns an '82 300D. She told me she just had an oil change after about 9K. Oops. She's not real savvy - the car still runs, not sure if she's out of the woods. At any rate, I was wondering if the right synthetic would give her a longer spell between changes. I use Castrol Syntec 5W-50 on my bimmer in part because the PO used it for about 125K miles. I like the 7-8 K space between oil changes.

But I can't seem to find a straight answer on what type of synthetic is acceptable for the 607. I'm going to have my 300SD running soon enough and I'll need to know for my sake as well.

Anyone know?

*EDIT*

Castrol site recommends 0W-30. 0W-30?

SAE 0W-30:

Castrol Canada - Grades

"SAE 0W-30:

Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low-temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40°F. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils."

Sounds like a strictly Winter Oil to Me.

No matter what Oil you use in general is the Engine that contaminates the Oil. If the Valve Adjustments are not kept up, Injectors not in good condition, Fuel Injection Timing, Engine Compression and so on are not within specs a different type or Company's Oil does not guarantee you can do the extended Oil Change.

I think the easiest way to extend the life of the Oil and increase Engine protection is to add on a suitable Bypass Oil Filter. If you do that the type of Oil and the Oil change time are less critical.
The Bypass Oil Filter reduces the amount and size of particles that cause Engine wear but most do not deal with the depletion of the Additives in the Oil.

Zulfiqar · #15 05-12-2013, 01:22 AM

as diesel911 says - you can almost never drain the engine 100% when its bolted to the car - so whatever you put in there as additive never gets fully removed on draining.