Good call - I recall seeing such a syringe at Princess Auto - aka Harbor Freight in the US. I will pick one of those up until I get myself one of those $80 reverse bleeders by Pheonix.

A bit of an update. I got home after work today and it seems to be a bit better. No more grinding, bit more resistance in the pedal. And engagement point slightly higher. I guess some air worked its way up on its own. I will keep an eye on it , and maybe I'll have the guts to bring it down from the jack stands and take it on the road soon!

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

A pressure bleeder is a great tool for single handed flushing your brakes and clutch but not for bleeding the air from the clutch, you need to PUSH the brake fluid and air bubbles UP from the slave. You can bleed/flush the brakes but the pressure bleeder is not the tool to bleed the air from the clutch.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I just dealt with 1982 240d clutch juice this week.
I was getting some sporadic action, finally would not de-clutch one morning to put in 1st gear. Found the reservoir low -there appears to be a divider for the clutch fluid, the feed hose enters the reservoir fairly high, I think probably to prevent putting in gear and driving if you were out of brakes.
Anyway, I topped it off, pumped the pedal, saw bubbles up through the reservoir fluid. Operation returned to normal and was ok for a few days. Then I lost the clutch coming home from work and could not pull away at a light (doh). I put the rest of the can of fluid in and was able to drive off.

Now, I gets serious and under the car.
The master and every thing under the dashboard looked ok. I could see a fresh leak, and traced it to the weep hole in the bottom of the bell housing.
The new slave arrived today from PP, all good again, drove the car an hour and turned over 358,000 miles.
There is not much room to work, I got it using rust bust, a 12mm open end on the hydraulic line and my electrician's hammer (klein lineman plier) to tap the wrench handle and work gently back and forth.
Anyway, I think this set up bleeds itself just filling and pumping the pedal until normal de-clutching is obtained, you might want to get your car off the jackstands and drive.

Double check that the shifter arm on the transmission isn't loose.

I replaced the clutch master and I finally got some results. And I didn't even have to reverse bleed.

With the new master cylinder in, using my hand, I pushed in the shaft further than it normally would with the pedal pushed, "jiggled" it back and fourth within the last 1cm of travel until it stopped bubbling in the reservoir. Pedal is nice and stiff and no grinding going into reverse.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

I have kept a pump-type oiler for brake bleeding. Works great when I do a clutch, too.

However, I keep it for brake fluid only. I am not sure I'd want to mix oil, or some other mystery fluid in my brake system....but thats just me.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

I tried to build one of those but the oiler I got was so crude and already dirty inside (princess auto/harbor freight) that no matter how much I pumped, it was pumping out little pieces of crud that I didn't want to introduce into any system.

I have since dumped the brake fluid out of it and now it's just oil.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

Thats interesting, gota try that next clutch master I do. The air doesn't have far to go to escape from the reservoir .

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"