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  #16  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:00 PM
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Thanks for the input cooljay. I'll mark you down in the "definitely not interested in WVO" category. I jest...
For me it was mostly an economic experiment with a little bit of good ol 'merican fuel independence. It has turned out to be more of a hassle than it's worth and I stopped filtering my own WVO a long time ago. I'm with you about keeping cars on the road although I feel I've probably worn this one out. It has about 330k on it now and it may be the 2nd engine(previous owner).

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  #17  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:32 PM
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Actually I think its a great idea....remember when Mr diesel started to build diesel engines....his intent was to have then run on peanut oil....still a great concept! The problem is our engines and newer diesels aren't built to run in this fuel. It would be great if a company would build a modern engine with this concept but no one is and probably no one will. I just don't recommend people run alternative fuel in vehicles no meant to run it....now propane is a great alternative to gas....and most newer diesels are built on the principle that they can run on Bio...personally I would love to import a compressed air vehicle!

I would not call your car done for.....but it would take a number of man hours and a few pats to get it running properly again plus a nice long road trip!
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  #18  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:44 PM
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If the 330k is original there is no reason to suspect the car is done yet. If you can still do over a thousand miles on one quart of engine base oil it still has life left usually. This is without the engine not leaking oil. The bio diesel may have loosened up a lot of stuff remember as well.
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  #19  
Old 05-15-2013, 10:51 PM
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I tried a few things tonight. Mostly on the smaller tank and electric pump. Changed the filter but the filter never filled with fuel when the pump turned on. I tried unhooking the hose to see if fuel would squirt out, nothing. Swapped with another pump of the same model that I though worked and it did the same thing, nothing comes out. I even tried a hose to the pump intake sticking directly in the top of the little tank and still nothing. Next I tried putting a hose directly from the top of the little tank into the injection pump but my batter is getting low now and it doesn't have enough umph to give it a fair shot. Tomorrow I'll try jumping it and see it the direct method yields anything. I assume the IP can pull strong enough to get fuel without a pump if it's a short run like that?
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  #20  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:35 PM
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The injection pump itself has no ability to pull fuel at all. The lift pump is what pumps the fuel to flow.
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2013, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
The injection pump itself has no ability to pull fuel at all. The lift pump is what pumps the fuel to flow.
He is using some kind of electric pump. What hose did he unhook and no fuel came out? for him to get any meaningful help he will need to provide a system diagram since he does not have a stock fuel system anymore.
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2013, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronnash View Post
A lot to check on here. I spoke with vstech on the phone just a bit ago and he seemed to think it was a bad injection pump.

The primer is the newer button style. Are those not biodiesel approved?

I can't even get it to start when connected to the smaller tank with it's own pump. I changed that filter ~2 weeks ago and it shouldn't be clogged since it's a plastic 1 gallon tank. Will connecting a bottle to it be much different than this small tank?

I'll look up the kettle test and try that. I assume it needs to be running for that as well as some of the other diagnostics. Gotta get it running first.

If I have the fuel cap open, does that negate a clogged fuel vent?
A Filter can get plugged up in a matter of Minutes if the Fuel is contaminated.
If you troubleshooting is producing no rseults and it turns out to be the Spin-on Filter you are going to be kicking youself for not changing it.

You could change the Spin-on Filter and put it in a Zip-lock Bag. If it turns out to be OK you can reuse it later.

Despite the fact that the Bosch Hand Primers have Viton Seals I think they cover thier A** and say not for SVO, WVO or Biodiesel. That being said Members are using them with those Fuels with no issues.
Bosch Hand Primer has Dual edge Viton® seal:
http://www.boschautoparts.com/DieselParts/Pages/HandPrimers.aspx

It is unknow what is inside the copies of the Bosch Hand Primers.
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  #23  
Old 05-20-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
you must do oil changes more regularly....probably 1500 miles....gotta get the carbon, gunk and wvo out....it will also plug your oil filter...you must also do valve adjustments more regularly as the valves get caked in carbon....causing tight valves....or burning off causing lose valves....

The world will end rather you are burning wvo or diesel....just sit back and enjoy the ride! By 2030....the bay bridge will be under water...
Every 1500 miles? Seriously?

Gotta love the upbeat ending!

Byronnash -- I have a used IP that was running well when pulled from a non-WVO/Biodiesel 300D (1928). PM me if you wish to buy it.
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  #24  
Old 05-20-2013, 04:04 PM
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I would consider an air leak as a possible sorce of the problem. Fuel hose, hose clamps, sealing rings. Check them all and replace as nessicarry. Doesn't take much to cause a leak and a small leak can cause big problems.
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  #25  
Old 05-20-2013, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronnash View Post
I tried a few things tonight. Mostly on the smaller tank and electric pump. Changed the filter but the filter never filled with fuel when the pump turned on.
wait a minute... I dont quite understand this action you have made..

which pump you used? was it in parallel with already present
lift pump on the IP? not filling the filter can show some error in test
you do.... or failed primer pump....

not hearing the sound while priming I would suspect:
failed lift pump
plugged fuel/filter system
failed IP

I would suggest not trowing more items into the problem
but testing with only IP,lift pump and pre/filter alone.

you can pinch the return line if you suspect open return valve on IP


dont give up


ChO

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  #26  
Old 05-20-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
I have a used IP that was running well when pulled from a non-WVO/Biodiesel 300D (1928). PM me if you wish to buy it.
1928? ... was it pulled from Steamboat Willie

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  #27  
Old 05-20-2013, 04:45 PM
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Trouble with WVO--

They think they can chuck any old crap in the car and it'll run good....4
But--Not True! Ive seen guys run veg/WVO that is Clearly loaded with moisture--The BIGGEST killer of the fuel-system

--And hoping either a daft simple and stupid (Pointless) Twin-Tank system and or no other engine preparation will keep it going good.
FATAL!

Oil HAS to be Properly DRIED by heating to over 100 deg. C for some time to be considered 'dry' enough for use as fuel, and the Engine Itself Prepared Properly--Which it appears only Elsbett as a Company do.

Guess thats why Ive done hundreds of thousands of miles over 16-17 years and NO fuel pump OR Engine issues at all over three M.B's.....
--All Single-Tank systems and keeping much the original M.B fuel-system layout--Why change a GOOD thing

--Even poorly made BioDiesel can cause issues with corrosion--especially if they skimped on the purification and drying stages.
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  #28  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:24 PM
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Here is a link to my fuel system. http://youtu.be/o0iVDGjm-Qc
Tonight I think I figured out that my electric pump isn't performing and the spare one I have is bad too. I pulled the fuel line off the lift pump and blew some air in to the tank to see if it was stopped up. I heard bubbles right away so I don't think the lines are clogged coming from the main tank. Tomorrow I'm going to go get another electric pump and see if I can get that side working. Does the engine mounted lift pump much during the cranking? For example, should fuel be squirting out if I disconnect a line in between the IP and LP?
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2013, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byronnash View Post

Tonight I think I figured out that my electric pump isn't performing and the spare one I have is bad too.
I suspected that one so I told you to go with IP and LP only...

Quote:
Originally Posted by byronnash View Post
For example, should fuel be squirting out if I disconnect a line in between the IP and LP?
that line should go to fuel filter first....yes,it should squirt
if not your LP died and simple LP swap will resolve all your problems

I had opportunity to see one LP with some hacked shims inside
so it was failing big time.


edit: your youtube video is private only so even logged I cant see a thing


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  #30  
Old 05-21-2013, 09:25 AM
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Sorry about the bum link. Try it now.

It's much easier to get the non-stock fuel pump working since everything related to that system is on top and easily accessible. I should be able to get that side going and determine if it's the IP or not. I'll look into swapping out the LP and see what that takes.

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