It is more Feasible & Pract. to get the Front section from a 300D and shorten it !! Therefore You only have 1 Weld versus 2. In my case it worked out nicely w/o Balancing! Keep in Mind it is a short Shaft and if the cutting & welding are done by a Pro there is NO Problem! Love My 4 Speed in the Mountains!! 4 Speed is also easier on the Turbo since You control it & not the Tranny & I put the Boost Gage into the Dr. side A/c Vent. Thinking about doing My Wagon!

IIRC the guys that did my driveshaft said that one part it is a press tube flange and no welding needed. I could be entirely wrong.

__________________
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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I'm not sure how that would work, Winmutt. It has to transfer torque so a weld is cheap insurance. If you look at my build thread you can see my driveshaft setup - a weld on each end, no midship bearing, and just 2 U-joints with no rubber discs. Plain and simple but probably not the easy way to go on a 4 speed into a Benz swap - the M-B rear doesn't go up and down in respect to the driveshaft (hopefully!).

Dan

It has been almost 2 years since I gave up on my project, and it has just sat. I have regained interest and have a few questions as I have forgot certain things. I recently bought a w116 300sd with a good running engine. My thought was to swap the engine over into my w123 and get a balanced flywheel. I dont remember exactly as to what needs to be done when balancing. If i pulled this engine out to put in my w123, would i only need to find a neutrally balanced flywheel to bolt up, or do i need to find out if the crank in that engine is balanced. Any input would be appreciated because I am kind of confused.

Been a while sine I read this whole thread, so don`t remember what you were doing.

Are you going to put in a manual transmission?
This is the usual reason for the balancing the Flywheels.

If you are pulling a om617 to put in a 240D or 300D with an automatic trans, then no balancing needs to be done.

If you are going to change the auto FW on the OM617 to a Manual FW with a 4-spd Manual trans, then you need to match balance the manual FW to the way the auto FW is balanced to that engine.

Look for a mark in the doner engine`s Crank and FW, if you see no mark, the use a chisel and punch a line in the Crank and FW before removing it. This will be your reference point. have the shop that understands about match balancing the 2 Fw`s, and not just balancing the manual FW.

Once they get the Manual FW balanced as the auto FW is, they will mark it. Then match this mark to your Crank.

You will need to buy 12 new 12mm 12 point manual FW Bolts from MB. They are a one time use, and a torque to yield bolt.

The Auto FW Bolts are different than the Manual FW Bolts.

Some Fw`s are natural balanced as I have read, some not.
As I have read it in the FSM, MB balances the Crank and FW as an assembly.

No you don`t have to remove the crank.

If that crank and auto FW are balanced as a unit, swapping over another FW (auto or manual) will throw it out of balance.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have a little bit of a problem. When I removed the auto flywheel, i guess i did not mark it good enough so i have no reference point to mount the flywheel. I have found a shop that can match balance my flywheels but the problem is that I dont know in which location to bolt it back up. The machine shop says they can balance the whole unit, which requires the harmonic balancer, crank with rods and pistons, and flywheel. I have the whole engine apart because i was checking the bearings but the machine shop wants $250 for this job. What should I do?

If you have it apart... and that is a reputable machine shop...
I say PAY them quickly.....
most people are not at the point where it is that simple.... most would have to take apart the engine... a much bigger risk ....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

While i was tearing apart the engine, everything got out of time, since I removed the head, and then i was inspecting bearings in the bottom end so i was turning the engine over. I am a little concerned about the IP timing. I dont know how to do it or if there are any timing marks. Also, what would everyone recommend replacing while I have everything apart. Bearings all look fine, I was thinking to new rings and new gaskets all around. Also getting a valve job done to increase compression.

Bump

Is this work on the old doner or new doner? I would do everything by the book, relax take your time. Dont fiddle with anything you cant afford to replace.
Do you have the FSM or at least a Haynes manual?

This is the engine I had in the car. I wanted to inspect the bottom end because I thought maybe the vibration would have caused some damage to the bearings, but everything looked very good. Now I plan on balancing the assembly and replacing parts.

I wanted to add my experience in dealing with the trans mount. People claim using a 240d auto trans cross member works perfectly when installed in reverse. This was simply not the case in my install, not even close. Mods were required to get the 240d auto trans mount to work.

Firstly the trans mount is jacked all the way forward on my cross member. The manual trans rubber mount fit barely but when I installed the larger auto trans rubber I had to cut off a good portion of the front to get it to fit into the 240d x member.

Second the 240d trans x member is not centered so when you reverse it the mount holes are not usable. Also the auto trans mount has a lip that sits in a ridge on the x member. Now that it's off center this causes the mount to sit a little off as the lip and ridge don't line up.

Anyhow I fabricated a couple brackets so I could use all 4 mounting holes for more stability. Due to the auto trans mount being slightly higher also put the trans a little higher of course. It's a good thing for me because now I can lower the x member if needed by shimming or using a washer btwn the x member and chassis if and when I need to lower the trans to get the driveshaft running true.

So no it's not really a simple job to flip the 240d auto x member around and use backwards. Not even close in my case. Very happy to have this part of the job done.

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I have been reading this thread and am considering a manual swap, I don't see any updates, did you quit the project?

I too am interested in what happened with the swap. I am about to pick up an 82 240d with a 4spd manual and want to swap the tranny into my 83 wagon.

I've done the swap 3 times.

All 3 times both the manual flywheel and automatic flex plate were taken to a machine shop for balancing, however upon their testing they were all neutral balanced from factory.


if by miracle, they were not balanced neutral at factory the next bit will apply...

1. Get them match balanced at machine shop

2. put the flywheel on the engine , start the engine and if it vibrates too much it's in the wrong position... turn engine off and move the flywheel 1/12th of a rotation and reconnect ( the flywheel bolt pattern is 12 bolts, so only 12 possible positions )


if smoothe, it is correct and no need to change.