Not after you see this pict! It can't be much worse than my 300TD with terminal body cancer (rust).

I removed my front side drivers seat today to examine the damage on my floorpan. I was not happy about what I found. Where the seat track rests is rusted completely through to open air, and the pan is also rusted through in a line parallel to the front of the seat. The rust pattern creats an upsidedown L, not so safe. It seems the local body shop is going to make some good $$ on this one, unless I can get the guy up the street to weld some scrap metal onto there for me.

So my question is, will a home-done job suffice, or should I take it to a body shop? I think there is enough good metal left to weld some new metal on, but I don't know anything about bodywork and don't want to fall out of the car on the highway!

Second question, why is the floorpan so badly rusted? As you can see from the picture, there has been oil living under the carpets for probably a bunch of years. The PO didn't fix the leaking oil gauge. But oil should NOT rust metal, right? I found no water leakage, but what is the most common drain that would be plugged to leak water into this area?

Thanks for your help.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

Greetings Sean,

Kind of a kick to the head isn't it? If I were just guessing I'd almost believe that the condensate drain for the evaporator was plugged and that water building up in there was pushed through the lowest vent and settled in the carpet just below the vent exit. I would also believe that any local body man or experienced fabricator could build you a new floor pan and weld it into place. In my younger years I remember a fellow who use to buy 55 gallon drums just for the metal to shape into floor pans and rocker panel replacements. He was very good with his hands and did a quality job at a great price. Just remember to reseal whatever work gets done and use some rubberized truck bed coating on the underneath to seal out new rust growth after the panel installation.

Charles

__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan

Anytime we put new metal into a car, we use a generous amount of the Mercedes-Benz Cavity Wax, it's like a beeswax substance. Works great in sealing off joins, etc..

We also use Wurth metal prep and weld through primer. MB also does sell their underseal in big cans, we will use this on the underside of a floorpan, then put the cavity wax over it.

__________________
Regards,
Aaron

There was another post somewhere with a mention of this place that I saved in my favorites. I just looked around and found this stuff. I don't know if you might need something more but at these prices it looks like a pretty good place to start!

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=sm

I agree....water source is likely a "corroded" drain hose (a cheap little foam thing) that connects to the AC condensate pan and drains outside through a hole in the transmission hump. Take off panels near your feet on drivers side....the culprit is located about 9 inches to the right of the gas pedal at center of hump. Either buy a new part from MBZ or put in proper size rubber hose. Very tough access though, as you will see! I fixed mine with radiator hose or washing machine drain hose (i forgot size).....it took me about an 2 hours to squeeze it in and attach a band clamp ...a real knuckle twister!!! It would have been much easier to install the OE foam thing, but I consider the rubber hose a permanent fix. When I installed the rubber hose, i worked at it from both the driver's and passenger side. I squeezed it on with my fingers part way, then poked and prodded with long screw drivers, long pliers, etc. This worked out real nice....the hose fit snugly over the "barbed" plastic AC drain nozzle, and the outside of the hose fit snugly into the hole through the hump...thus, a permanent fix and no chance for fumes etc. to enter into the car around the sides of the hose.

I had lots of water only on driver's side because of this.

Good Luck

MarkM

__________________
1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)

You should all make a visit to Sweden and our saltinfested winter roads.

The damage you have on the floorpan is peanuts compared to what the average MB of equal age shows here.

A common test when looking at a used MB is to open drivers side door and stomping as hard as you can on the floor, if you doesn't completely step through it is a good car.........

__________________
/Per

MB E300TDT -98

I have a rust in a similar place on my 123 ,I suspect it was first caused by someone trying to jack up the car under the sill rather than the jacking point.
This has 1, bent the metal and 2, damaged the thick MB underseal allowing water to get in.and result rust.....

If you have access to a oxy/cetyline or preferably mig welder and some steel and are or know a competent welder It would be a fairly straightforward job,
clear all wiring and carpets etc remove underseal from the surrounding area, and have water and fire extinguisher close by..

I suspect it maybe a bodyshop job though, to cut out the rust and weld in new steel to make it as strong..

I am lucky one of my collegues is an artist when it comes to repairing rust to UK MOT standards and people like him are worth their weight in gold when running an older car in the salt laden roads in Scotland.

I know that in the States this may not be of use, but they seem to do all floor panels for the 123

http://www.veng.dk/UKVersion/other.en.html

Good Luck

Thanks for all your replys regarding the Condensation Hose and the possibilities for repair. The rust repair website seems great! $60 for a new floorpan (and piece of mind) is very attractive.

My only concern is that I thought the floor pan on W123 was one large piece, covering the whole seating area. Am I mistaken?

Anyway, thanks for your help. I'm going to replace that hose and then bring the car to a local body shop, for further inspection.

__________________
Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

Remember, oil floats on water, so any water getting to your floorpan, whether from a leaking rear window/windshield/whatever, probably was trapped UNDER the layer of oil, and left to eat away your floorpans! Eeek!

Mike

__________________
_____
1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
_____
1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

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