Blew an oil cooler line. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hounds · #1 05-20-2013, 03:02 PM

OK. I know this topic has been discussed but couldn't find anything QUITE like my question.
So, I blew the hose closest to cooler on top.
I drove it maybe 10 seconds before turning off engine and coasting to a stop after I noticed it was about to over heat.
SO, I had the sucker towed to my buddies.

I have a local hydraulics guy who builds hoses and we fixed it. It ran well with no apparent issues all day.

The following day, however, I started it up and ran for maybe 10 minutes before I took off and within seconds I noticed a 'ticking' or tapping noise coming from the engine, almost sounded like something was getting caught up in the fan belt. I saw nothing while engine was running but DID notice it was coming from the 'area' of timing chain/valve cover is. It was in that area. I was only half mile from home so figured I'd milk it home.
Noise only got louder and harder banging so I pulled over again. No oil leaks, oil looked fine, all fluids fine.
Had the sucker towed AGAIN but to my house.

COuld this be a half broken timing chain? or something with valves?

Or am I pretty much F%$#'d ??

Why would the car drive perfectly normal for a half day if this was a problem caused by the oil leaking out. It didn't over heat too badly before I turned it off.

No oil in the antifreeze or any fluids under the car.

I really love this car and should I simply start by taking the valve cover off at least or am, like I said, pretty much Screwed, F$#d or whatever you want to call it.

The car has 130K on it.
Thanks

TheDon · #2 05-20-2013, 03:08 PM

Timing chains are either broken or not broken. Pull the valve cover and inspect.

Hounds · #3 05-20-2013, 03:16 PM

If it were broken would it still be drive able? Even if only 100 feet or so?

My thought was IF I blew a rod or some other crap, the car wouldn't even be driveable or runnable.

thanks., I'll start disassembling the sucker and see what I have.
Sure can't hurt at this point.

cho · #4 05-20-2013, 03:47 PM

.

how much of oil you had to add after repair?

.

Alastair · #5 05-20-2013, 04:27 PM

.......................'after I noticed it was about to over heat.........'

So--the engine had pumped out all its oil, then actually started to overheat before you shut it down?

Its Toast!

An engine will only last seconds with no oil-pressure before major damage is done to it...

kerry · #6 05-20-2013, 04:29 PM

How do you know you only drove it for 10 seconds after the hose failed? You say you drove it for 10 seconds after you noticed it was about to overheat. Those are two different events. You could have been driving for quite a while with very low oil pressure prior to the engine beginning to overhear. The answer to the question as to how much oil was left in the engine is crucial. Does anyone know how long it takes to pump all the oil out if a hose fails? I remember Tyler blew an oil hose once. Maybe he has that data.

Hounds · #7 05-20-2013, 06:33 PM

To answer some of your questions

After the fix, I added 4 quarts to bring it to the TOP of the dipstick FULL marks. Could have put 3 to be in the middle. I knew it was a lot of oil.

YES it appears the engine pumped out MOST or a LOT of its oil before I noticed the temperature getting a bit hot.
I am going by engine temperature, not oil pressure. The OP guage is not working.

I saw oil splattered (small spots) on the windshield and immediately pulled over, then at the same time looked down and the engine temp was going past normal.

I can't recall how much oil the car takes at change. But 4 to bring dipstick to the top line is a LOT.

SOOOO, my question I guess is how is it that I drove the car for maybe 15 minutes after the fix with no apparent problems? I wanted to 'test' the fix so I drove it about 10 miles at 65mph and then let it idle for a little bit before shutting it down. The next morning is when this all happened with the pinging or pounding.

I suspect a rod now from what my neighbor thinks, but he's not a mechanic.

If it's a rod, is it repairable? And for what cost? DIY?

Why do you say the engine is toast? I drove it for 10 miles with no apparent problems AFTER the oil fix.

Is this problem related? or could it be something totally happening at the same time by CHANCE. lol ?? Hey gotta ask.

I guess I just don't get why I was able to drive the car for 10 miles and 'test it' with no apparent problems and then the next day the pinging noise.

Thanks all to answered. I am debating what to do.

What would this car be worth if I were to simply sell it needing engine?
Tranny perfect, shifts well, fluids changed regularly. Interior EC, needs tires, not much rust if any. No radio, no A/C, everything else works great.

cooljjay · #8 05-20-2013, 06:39 PM

Yeh buddy I think your engine is gone. It sounds like a baring went....the no 1 cylinder is the farthest from the oil pump. If you would have killed the engine once the oil pressure started to drop....it could have been saved but letting it over heat till you went to the side of the road.....its gone.....

kerry · #9 05-20-2013, 06:44 PM

That's not an uncommon occurrence. Engine is worse the next day. The problem is that as soon as you open a hole that big in a pressurized system, the pressure drops and the engine starts succumbing to high friction.
Driving without an oil pressure gauge is a dangerous practice.

Junkman · #10 05-20-2013, 06:47 PM

I surmise that none of the cars here are worth "much". All are old, few are in great shape. $3,000 will buy a decent looking car with most things working.

AC is expensive and I'd bet that there are other things needed before your car would be good enough to drive anywhere. You also need an engine and to a purchaser, most things like the tranny can't be tested without driving.

Unless the car is cosmetically beautiful, I'd only give parts car price for it only if I needed an extra parts car or project. So....$300 (salvage value) to $500.

I'd probably buy an engine or parts car and repair or buy another and use the current for parts.

Diesel911 · #11 05-20-2013, 06:48 PM

Look for Metal Particles in the Oil you drain out and in the bottom of the Oil Pan.

mach4 · #12 05-20-2013, 07:02 PM

Can't be certain until you open things up and look, but all signs point to a trashed engine. If you got to an overheated condition with no loss in coolant, that's some pretty massive friction going on.

Driving around with a broken oil pressure gauge is just asking for trouble. You don't need it until you need it and then it could easily cost an engine... as apparently it has. Certainly a good reminder for all of us.

oldiesel · #13 05-20-2013, 08:11 PM

Take the oil filter out and cut open the pleated part and spread it out,if it`s got lots of bits of metal in it your engine is finished.

TheDon · #14 05-20-2013, 08:16 PM

I'm going with it being toast. I always monitor my oil pressure. The gauge is in my peripheral vision.

If it idles and you can get under the engine and listen it might help. Knocking/banging from the bottom of the engine is no bueno.

eatont9999 · #15 05-20-2013, 10:37 PM

I am assuming you are talking about the 1984 300SD in your profile. If the engine ran that long with no oil pressure, you are not looking at a good situation. I can't explain why the engine ran OK one day and not the other but perhaps the bearings, etc were dry and not making sound but once they were lubricated, they loosened up. It sounds like the engine is cooked.

Value of the car is scrap value. These cars typically need a lot of deferred maintenance caught up on to begin with, not to account for a shot engine. If you have a grey interior in mint condition, I might be interested if you decide to scrap the car.

Good luck but it is not sounding promising.