Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-20-2013, 05:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Need Pilot Bearing Magic

I just messed up my new pilot bearing as I attempted to drive it into the back of the crank. The bore seems OK (clean, no rust, etc.) and I froze the bearing so it would be a bit smaller. All to no avail. I THOUGHT I had it aligned nicely but no go. Then after about 1,000 tries I destroyed one of the seals so I'll order up a fresh bearing.


BUMMER!!!!

Anyhow - any tricks out there for this?

Dan

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-20-2013, 06:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Is this the sealed ball bearing type or needle bearing?

In any event, use a small file to break the sharp edge of the crank bore.


For the ball bearing type, look at the outer race of the bearing, sometimes there will be a side that has a better curve / taper.

Use something that only contacts the outer race of the bearing, pressing on the inner race will damage both races / balls.

If it is the needle bearing type, one side will have more of a taper than the other, drive the tapered side towards the crank.

In any event, the bearing must be pressed in straight make a few taps then measure, if one side is high, hit there.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-20-2013, 07:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Thanks! It's the ball style. I'll mic the new one and see if there's any taper. Good tip on tapering each side (bearing and hole). I'm thinking a slight touch with the die grinder and a fine stone (I have some) and maybe the outer race with my green wheel (a very fine abrasive wheel on one of my bench grinders) might help. THEN freeze it.

I was using a socket that's just a touch smaller than the outer race. Next try I'll freeze that too so it doesn't heat the bearing as much.

Wish me luck. It'll be a week or so before I can get back out in the shop so I'll post my results. I'm planning to buy two bearings so I have a backup. This assures success on the first try so I'll be stuck with the extra bearing which I'll keep until I have no idea what it was for.

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-20-2013, 07:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Is there a number on the bearing? It may be a standard bearing available at any auto parts / bearing supply. You are looking for something like 6202 / 6203
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:07 PM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,544
What year is your motor? The 1985 617s had a smaller crank that's a PITA and can take some boring from a brake cylinder hone.
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
It's a standard SKF. Now that I have the number I can get one locally and for cheap.

Simpler - the engine is an '84. The bore is REALLY close so I'm thinking it just needs some angle at the opening to guide the bearing in.

THANKS all for your input!

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-21-2013, 08:33 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,978
while at the auto parts shop, ask for a seal/bearing driver set and check if it fits your bearing. makes it real easy.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-21-2013, 05:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Something to consider, if the crank bore is too small, it will compress the outer race and cause the bearing to bind when you turn it. It's sounding like this is a known problem.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-21-2013, 06:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
Dry ice to shrink it.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-21-2013, 09:32 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,346
The engine is an 84? Sure about that? Cali? If the crank is too small its an 85 or a cali 84.

Stick your finger in the hole, take a die grinder at 45* angle and eat the outside off.

Please update your sig with your cars etc....

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page