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#1
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Need Pilot Bearing Magic
I just messed up my new pilot bearing as I attempted to drive it into the back of the crank. The bore seems OK (clean, no rust, etc.) and I froze the bearing so it would be a bit smaller. All to no avail. I THOUGHT I had it aligned nicely but no go. Then after about 1,000 tries I destroyed one of the seals so I'll order up a fresh bearing.
BUMMER!!!! Anyhow - any tricks out there for this? Dan |
#2
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Is this the sealed ball bearing type or needle bearing?
In any event, use a small file to break the sharp edge of the crank bore. For the ball bearing type, look at the outer race of the bearing, sometimes there will be a side that has a better curve / taper. Use something that only contacts the outer race of the bearing, pressing on the inner race will damage both races / balls. If it is the needle bearing type, one side will have more of a taper than the other, drive the tapered side towards the crank. In any event, the bearing must be pressed in straight make a few taps then measure, if one side is high, hit there. |
#3
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Thanks! It's the ball style. I'll mic the new one and see if there's any taper. Good tip on tapering each side (bearing and hole). I'm thinking a slight touch with the die grinder and a fine stone (I have some) and maybe the outer race with my green wheel (a very fine abrasive wheel on one of my bench grinders) might help. THEN freeze it.
I was using a socket that's just a touch smaller than the outer race. Next try I'll freeze that too so it doesn't heat the bearing as much. Wish me luck. It'll be a week or so before I can get back out in the shop so I'll post my results. I'm planning to buy two bearings so I have a backup. This assures success on the first try so I'll be stuck with the extra bearing which I'll keep until I have no idea what it was for. Dan |
#4
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Is there a number on the bearing? It may be a standard bearing available at any auto parts / bearing supply. You are looking for something like 6202 / 6203
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#5
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What year is your motor? The 1985 617s had a smaller crank that's a PITA and can take some boring from a brake cylinder hone.
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#6
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It's a standard SKF. Now that I have the number I can get one locally and for cheap.
Simpler - the engine is an '84. The bore is REALLY close so I'm thinking it just needs some angle at the opening to guide the bearing in. THANKS all for your input! Dan |
#7
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while at the auto parts shop, ask for a seal/bearing driver set and check if it fits your bearing. makes it real easy.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#8
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Something to consider, if the crank bore is too small, it will compress the outer race and cause the bearing to bind when you turn it. It's sounding like this is a known problem.
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#9
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Dry ice to shrink it.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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The engine is an 84? Sure about that? Cali? If the crank is too small its an 85 or a cali 84.
Stick your finger in the hole, take a die grinder at 45* angle and eat the outside off. Please update your sig with your cars etc....
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
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