Hello all,
I would like to introduce myself to this fine forum, and at the same time ask if anyone can share some insight.
I have searched the internet, and especially this forum for answers to my issue, so here goes.
1983 300d -------om617 California Model--------
starter began working intermittently and clicking rapidly as if the battery was low but much faster, so I removed said starter and found it was aftermarket rebuilt with bosch solenoid. small retainer cap was missing along with shims and c clip.

Had rebuilt (very reputable) with new solenoid and brushes ect as the wire inside was mangled.
Installed, clicks very rapidly now (as before) but starts engine. Sometimes it just clicks once though.
Checked signal voltage @ solenoid = 11.58 volts dc.
Unplugged the small 4 pin wire for glow plugs and = 12.5 volts @ solenoid.
checked signal @ glow plug 10 vdc and yes they shut off after a few seconds.
Then checked ground continuity from batt to engine all over and + continuity and voltage for any variance from batt, none.

When I jump the post at the 3 wire terminal on the pass fender it starts perfect, no clicking whatsoever.
I am afraid this issue is going to ruin my starter components.
Engine is grounded with strap cleaned at both end, all posts cleaned like new and a new battery ( huge interstate 6 mos old)
I do not think it is a battery or post related issue as jumping post produces a perfect start.
I also removed the ignition switch, OEM, and cleaned it perfectly and tested continuity on all posts. ( some oil was inside)
My theory is that something in between the starter switch and solenoid is draining max voltage = 12.5 vdc.
Lastly heat has provided no variation to the issue.
Thank you all for reading my long winded writings!!

My best guess is:

* Corrosion at the 3 wire terminal on the pass fender?
* A bad neutral safety start switch? Broken Neutral Safety Switch and replacing shifter bushings
* Failing ignition switch? Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas

.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

May also be a bad positive battery cable...

A bad starter can also take out a new battery....have it tested for free where it was bought..

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Connect a Voltmeter to the Battery and have some one crank the Engine and see how far the Battery Voltage Drops.
If you want to see how much of it is the Starter disconnect the square Elelctrical Connector at the Glow Plug Relay.

To see if it is the Netural Safety Switch try starting in Neutral instead of Park.
Giggle the Shifter around and see if that helps.
Also note that worn Shifter Bushings can mimic a Neutral Safety Switch Problem.
See Post #2 on how to bypass the Neutral Safety Switch
New Starter, Battery, No crank
If it starts all the time with the Neutral Safety Switch bypassed you have a Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter Bushing Problem.

If you still have the problem after bypassing the Neutral Safety Switch I and the Glow Plug Relay is not malfunctioning I think you would have an Ignition Switch Problem or some wiring problem.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thanks guys,I will look into all your suggestions and keep you posted !

You have corrosion inside the positive starter cable. This will require you to cut open the cable insulation at the positive post connector. As long as you keep seeing green, keep cutting. Soak in coca cola agitating every few minutes. change the coke out often. You can also use baking soda and water.

The grounding strap, cleaned at both ends, what about the middle? Is it green?

But since you say that it starts every time you jumper the 3 wire terminal on the passenger side, it's probably cause the hood is open ,,, no just kidding, could be that somewhere between the ignition switch and the 3 wire terminal you have a bad wire, you could try replacing the wire.

This is of course after you follow whunters suggestions,,, first.

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Closing the store
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I tested the NSS at the plug and no change
I cleaned all grounds all posts and rechecked all battery terminal wires, the positive terminals have some very light corrosion inside the strands but I do not believe that is an issue as I have checked the voltage at the battery itself and also checked voltage at the ends of said terminal to the starter with zero difference in voltage.
I am suspecting what is happening is the battery is unable to send out enough amperage and is thus clicking the starter solenoid rapidly.
I did a load test at the starter wire and have concluded the switch and wiring is fine as there is no variance in voltage.

These images are from the battery terminal

Attached Thumbnails

     

After doing some more research I have concluded that there is nothing wrong with the battery as the voltage drop is normal. I am going to look at the positive terminal again. I am pretty sure the + strap is good but will look again. The ignition and nss are working fine.
I am really at a loss and am now just willing to see if the problem progresses to a worse state.
thanks all.

Assuming the positive terminal is OK.

If all other diagnostics are correct:
* The main ground connection battery to body or body to engine is bad.
* The starter or solenoid is damaged/bad.


.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Take the batter to auto zone for a free charge and test....the battery may have a bad cell, it will not show up on a standard volt meter...

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I am going to have my battery tested and if that is not the issue change the positive cable, then the ground for good measure, thanks again everyone for the tips.

Good idea to replace the cables, I would suggest taking an old one with and getting the next gauge up aka a thicker cable. These cables were pretty thin out the door.

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I know this post is old but I would like to update for anyone experiencing the same issues. The problem actually arose from a bad (intermittent) armature assembly.
Once I installed a 50 dollar rebuild from oreilly auto it worked great, unfortunately it sticks sometimes.
If it persists I will be forced to return, sigh.

Some confusion here. You stated when bypassing the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and wiring it would reliabily start. The box on the front fender apron terminals jumped that is.

You were just providing more voltage and current to the starter solenoid using the jumped approach. My solutions when the system is marginal is to install an old remote starter solenoid from a ford product.

This will easily activate in marginal voltage conditions. You activate the solenoid with the original circuit but provide a good solid twelve volts to the solenoid with the secondary terminals on the remote starter relay.