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  #16  
Old 07-09-2013, 10:41 AM
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Its a torx bit, cant remember the size. Probably the same as the intake manifold cap bolts? Torque is not more than 20NM, very low. The oring does the work.

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  #17  
Old 07-09-2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preben View Post
Just a side note:
Here is a thread regarding a Mercedes / Bosch blunder when designing this fuel system. Bosch intended to have a 10mm fuel line from the tank to the diesel heater. But MB made that a 8mm in stead. That have given problems regarding power, since the flow rate of the fuel is too low.

The vacuum is also so high (in the pulses) that the diesel viporases and gives "air" bubbles in the system - even though no o-rings leaks there are bubbles in the system.

Well, I am so eager to get to my car and find the shut off valve o-ring. That is the only one that is not yet changed. ;-)

Just trying to find how to remove the SOV.. :-)
That is very interesting to read, Ive always wondered where the little bubbles are originating from in my E300D. In order to get the best power out of the engine, I believe one has to install a new wider dia fuel line under the car, eliminate the heater and connect directly to the filter assembly. Or use a pressure pump like the old Dodge diesel guys use.
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2013, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Preben View Post
Awesome!
Allen, is that the same as umbraco?
Unbrako=Allen or hex key. I think it's 5 or 5.5mm
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2013, 05:57 PM
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Thank you :-)

I'll bring my umbraco-set with me. I have changed every o-ring except that one, and I still get too much air. My engine won't even hesitate to start. There is absolutely no sign of starting, even after 20-30 seconds of cranking. Never been that hard to start.

Is the o-ring the same size as the other ones?
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2013, 05:59 PM
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Short memory...

Found the right size here hopefully:

Quote:
1 shutoff valve 2.5mm x 12mm ID
9 fuel line 2.5mm x 8mm ID (1 located at fuel filter housing)
3 fuel filter housing 2.5mm x 10mm ID
1 pre-filter 3mm x 18mm ID
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  #21  
Old 07-16-2013, 06:12 AM
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PROBLEM :-(

I have tried to unscrew the shut off valve, but have met some problems you might help me with.

After testing different sizes, it sems like torx t-30 is the right size for the screws. BUT the bit does slip when I try to unscrew the screws (counter clock wise- CCW).

If I try to do CW, it grips hard. If I try to turn it CCW, the bit is somehow presses OUT of the screw's head, and slips. For me it seams like these are one-way screws. (???)

I have taken some photos, so you might help me with what I need to do to access the o-ring on the inside...

See attached images. (PS: I see that the forum turned these images side ways. But you probably see the screws in the middle :-) )

I am very open for help and insights as to how to uscrew these screws ;-)
Attached Thumbnails
MB E300TDT 210 -Just stopped, will not start.-bilde-26-.jpg   MB E300TDT 210 -Just stopped, will not start.-bilde-27-.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:10 AM
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Hit the cap bolts with some cleaner to make sure there isn't any crud in there, sometimes that prevents the bit from seating properly.
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  #23  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:21 AM
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Like CRC 5-56 or similar?

The strange thing is that it seams like the bit seats fine for CW rotating, but not for CCW. I'll try to clean it, and try once more. :-)
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  #24  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:28 PM
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Carb or brake cleaner are my favorites.
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09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #25  
Old 07-17-2013, 01:30 PM
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Check the crankshaft position sensor is plugged in

This causes your symptoms. It is in center of firewall down in engine. It is a black plug off the main engine glow plug wire harness. This will cause no start and air bubbles. It might have worked lose or even gone bad. I forgot to plug mine back in after messing with fuel lines and glow plugs and wasted hours trying to start and chase air leaks. Plugged that in and bam , starts right up.

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