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Any way to test a driveshaft?
Could I test the driveshaft in my '84 300D to see as to whether it is in good shape, or is this something that can only be ascertained when the car is driven?
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If the DS and flanges are not bent, cracked, or rusted away it's good. There are shops that can check the balance if you pull it. Why are you questioning the DS?
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I read a procedure for testing the universal joint...beasically just making sure it does not bind. Other than that and what was already stated....not much can fail.
I was thining next time I took one down I would bring it to the DS shop and have them replace the u-joint and balance it just for good measure. |
The rubber web that supports the center bearing can be ripped and sometimes it's hard to see so check that carefully also.
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Physically, if you see no damage on the shaft, and if you have not removed it, rubber parts and U-joints seem to be all to check. |
You can take it to a driveshaft shop and have it checked for balance etc.
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driveshafts
I've read a few forum posts that if you remove the driveshaft, it's best to wire it together because if you let the front section come apart from the rear section, there's little chance you will be able to get it back together and it be in balance.
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After a particular year, maybe mid 80s, MB started marking them but I never count on that, always mark the two halves, that way you wont have a problem.
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The two halves are supposed to be balanced as an assembly. The reason why the alignment matters between the two halves is that they may have differences in balance if you get them out of alignment. As mentioned mark them with a punch or a scratch awl to ensure they align all the time.
Take it off the car, then take it, with the flanges and u joints attached, to a place that can balance the entire assembly. Have them balance, straighten, and check the u joints. Then you can be sure it is OK. Thanks, Packman |
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You can check for flat spots on the U-joint by bending while rotating a bit.
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Every Drive Line I have pulled, my own cars and the one`s at PNP have all had the flat spots. they will have a notchy feel when bending the joint.
I had the 240 and 300D U-Joints replaced at a DL shop, center support Bearing and the Centering Bushing in both ends. this will run a good $300, but you should be good for another 300K miles. Charlie |
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