OK,

Very good points!
The dog pushes into the center of the key cylinder that is good info.

MY wire only goes in about 5/8" and stops no matter how hard I push.
A jewelers screw driver might be a better option.

How far should the screw driver, or wire, go into the hole so I know when
I'm far enough?

The wire I'm using now, once it is in the hole, stops the key from turning.
Is this what should happen?

I have some channel locks that I'll tape up to turn the shroud :-)

Thanks again for all the great help :-)

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

You're still hung up with the use of the wire. A wire can only work if it is the perfect diameter and stiff enough to force the dog inward. Although some members have success with it, your chances are slim.

A jewelers screwdriver gets inserted to the stop...............5/8" sounds about right from memory...........and you pull the screwdriver outward (away from the lock centerline) so that the tip is levered inward (toward the lock centerline). You should be able to feel the spring resist the lever action of the screwdriver if you're paying attention to it. At that point, the housing will turn...............BUT............you'll probably need the grip from the pliers to do it, and you cannot let go of the screwdriver in the process.

It's a real challenge for anyone doing it for the first time.

I finally had success getting the key cylinder out :-)
I edited my original post so that in the future if someone else
is having a similar problem the solution would be at the top
of the thread.

Does anyone know how to remove the pins from the key
cylinder?

Thanks!

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

Does the tumbler turn OK out of the switch assembly? If so, the problem is not the tumbler pins. Pretty unlikely since tumblers usually turn easier as they age (assuming you keep it lubricated w/ dry graphite), which is why lock picking is much easier on an older lock. If above is true, look at my prior post for the real problem.

Hi Bill,

The tumbler is out of the car, on the bench, and when I turn the key
I can feel it stick and grab as I turn it. It feels like the pins are not
quite released. This is with the brand new key from Mercedes.

Also if I push the key in too far it will get stuck in the lock position,
until I wiggle the key out a little bit.

While turning the key past the lock position to the accessory position
I can feel little hangups and clicking sounds. Maybe this is the pins
dragging on the inside of the cylinder?

I can rotate the locking mechanism, in the dash, with a pair of needle
nodes pliers and it turns very smoothly with no hangups or drags.

If I can find out how to open the tumbler I will check to see if the
pins or inside of the cylinder are scored.

I'm hoping this is the problem, since a new tumbler installation is
a whole lot easier than removing and replacing the whole lock
mechanism.

Thanks for your help!

Willw

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

If you know someone who has an Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank; even the small Jewlery one that Harbor Freight has you can throw the tumble in there and you will be suprised what comes out of it.

If not get some WD-40 and hose the inards of the Tumbler out and if you have an Air Comressor or one of those compressed Air Cans that Computer Guys use stick the Nozzle in the Key Hole and blow it out.

Also if you look inside of the Steering Colum Lock you will see a spring loaded Metal Finger. In normal use that Metal Finger presses against the tip of the Key when the Key is inserted in the Tumbler; meaning that when you insert the Key with out the Tumbler Being assembled the Key may go a bit further in the Tumbler than it might with that Finger pushing onit.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I do have a small ultra-sonic cleaner at work

The dragging and slight sticking of the key between off and
accessory position has me worried. I think this problem is a
bad tumbler, but I can't rule out the steering lock pin problem
just yet.

I've decided that I'm going to leave the tumbler out of the lock
until next weekend. That way if its the locking pin problem I'll
find out before putting in a new tumbler. I don't want to risk
getting the key/tumbler assembly stuck in the off position again.

I guess I could cut/grind the dog off the tumbler so that the
shroud could always be removed. But its too late on Sunday to
do that. Maybe I'll do that before I install the new tumbler just to
make sure that everything is all right.

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

You're going to waste a lot of time trying to diagnose/repair a lock cylinder properly. The recommended approach is to procure a new one...........keyed to the vehicle............from the dealer.

After installation, at that point you will know if the problem is with the lock cylinder or with the lock mechanism. Unfortunately, you must make the test the hard way and, if the mechanism is the culprit, it could be a very painful test.

Hello all,

I've got the new lock cylinder from the dealer. Didn't cost as much as I thought it would.

But my tale of woe isn't over just yet.

I can put the cylinder back into the lock assembly, but the dog doesn't latch into the
lock assembly. The key cylinder dog has a large square area that fits into the grove of
the armor shroud to keep the shroud from turning except when the dog is depressed,
but the dog also has a small leg off to the side of the main square area to lock the key cylinder into the lock assembly also.

I've tried putting the key cylinder into the lock assembly without the shroud and even
pushing the key cylinder in as hard as I can I can't get the dog to raise and lock
the key cylinder into the lock assembly. If the dog doesn't raise into the locked
position then the key can't turn either. So I'm stuck.

I have the lock turned to the ACC position where the key cylinder was when I removed
it. The key cylinder dog almost raises to the locked position but not quite.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

Is it possible you need to rotate the innards of the Steering Colum Lock one way or another to index the 2 bumps on the back of the tumbler into the 2 holes in the Colum Lock?

I noticed one thing when I installed the New Steering Colum Lock. When I turned the outer sleeve all the way against the Colum Lock Housing the slots the Blocks rise up into were not line up. I had to rotate it counterclockwise till if found a spot it liked and it locked into place.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Good work. It sounds like your sticking was in the tumbler itself, not the hidden detent spring on the back of the switch assembly. I forgot exactly how you re-install the tumbler, but it is (obviously) the reverse of removing it. You need the key in the correct position. I recall you need to hold the locking dog down with a small flat screwdriver or such as you rotate the lock ring.

OK!

All is fixed :-)

With the shroud tightened as tight as it goes, it wouldn't allow the dog to rise.
Either that or I turned the steering wheel to 90 degrees from center, or both.

Now my key is locked in, the dash moulding is back in place, and the key
turns silky smooth.

Project completed.

Thanks for every ones help !

__________________
Will W - 1984 300SD federal

Acquired my first diesel back in December, 1980 300SD, which has a slew of its own issues, but now she is in a bad place due to an ignition problem. It has had the sticky ignition issue for weeks; however, I have always been able to find that niche and get the key to turn and successfully start the car. Last weekend someone entered my car and stole some belongings (I say entered because the central locking system has never worked since I bought the car) at which point the key will no longer turn to "ON". Several attempts that night, I returned the next day with my spare key, tried the wiggling, jiggling, angling of both keys I have for the car, to no avail. Unfortunately, I had to have the car towed home. After the tow, no changes in symptoms.

My key unlocks the steering wheel but will not turn to the "ON" position. It goes no further than the "paperclip hole" at 12 o'clock. The resistance in the ignition is solid and not similar to the sticky ignition issues of the past. I have used enough force just shy of bending or twisting either key.

I cannot be sure if the perpetrator may have attempted to start the car but there is no visual evidence of any tampering with the ignition. I'll keep searching and reading posts....hoping to avoid the destructive 'dremel' option..

__________________
Roy Brake
Fort Worth
1980 300SD
1987 560SEL SOLD@216K

If you can get to the Paper Clip Hole you ought to remove the Tumbler and Ignition Switch while you still Can.

Also you locking system is supposed to lock and work manually as long as you have the Key.
If the Lock push downs keep coming back up go under the Hood and disconnect the Check Valve. On mine it had 2 lines on one end and one line on the Vacuum Supply end. You want to disconnect the side with 2 lines so that when you pull and push the Lock Push Downs there will be no trapped pressure to push them back up.

If you can get the locks working manually it will be safer for you to remove the Steering Colum Lock so you can leave the Ignition Switch separete connected to the Connector and turn the Ignitiong Swithc with a Screwdriver.
After that you can inspect the Lock Tumbler and the Steering Colum Lock.

Don't be suprised if it turns out something inside of the Steering Colum Lock broke.
More info in the links:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Also when I went to remove My Lock Tumbler what I thought was the Hole for the Paper Clip turned out to be a Roll Pin and Hole. The Paper Clip hole was further clockwise.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel