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  #1  
Old 06-08-2013, 01:57 AM
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Universal coil spring spacers??

Yeh yeh I know I should rebuild my rear end and get new springs but in all honestly it isn't that bad...

I have noticed that most pre 1980 w123 sag a lot in the rear end compared to the newer w123...I have been trying to figure out why?

Well any ways my cars sits low plus I have close to a 100lbs of tools back there so I figured a simply fix would be to buy spacers i don't like the metal ones, figure ride would be to hard and a possibility of breaking a spring.

Curious if anyone has tried any of these and if they had results? I was assuming they would be cheaper, hints to why I would like opinions before I grab a pair.

Coil Spring Lift Kit Spacers Jeep Nissan Subaru Mitsubishi Suzuki Isuzu 4x4 4WD | eBay
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Last edited by cooljjay; 06-08-2013 at 02:09 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-08-2013, 10:46 AM
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I doubt the coil spring spacer you linked to will fit. The coils on an MB are much larger than many other cars. They are also spaced much closer together. Consequently, if you can even get them between the coils, they probably wont rest in the grooves and will migrate on you.

It isn't very expensive to repair what you have. Areas that are usually suspect: Subframe mounts, Trailing arm bushings, Differential mount and finally, the Coil spring pads come in 1-3 "nub" heights. For the jobs that require a spring compressor, one is available in the tool rental program here on the forum.
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2013, 11:40 AM
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dunno how the rear springs on a 116 compare but squiggle dog used those small i think alum squarish type chunks that are like a half turn install between coil springs

his car was loaded and worked out for him for that ride and load, not sure if they were left in

there are pix also
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  #4  
Old 06-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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Listen to SD Blue... he hit all the important concepts.

Seems to me that pre 1980 123's are older than the later ones.....LOL
Factory recommendations for replacing springs are WAY shorter than anyone guesses..
Do it right so your car reactions to changes in forces are what you expect them to be.
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  #5  
Old 06-08-2013, 04:07 PM
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Found some cheaper here and smaller 1"

Superior RideEFFEX™ 18-1901 - Spring Spacer | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by 300D85 View Post
dunno how the rear springs on a 116 compare but squiggle dog used those small i think alum squarish type chunks that are like a half turn install between coil springs
I seen those ones, and they worked really well on his ride. I may just get those and use them.....as he made it here from Washington....with a full load, and had no issues....plus his ride height was nice...

Agreed on a full rebuild, but huge job and I have heard sub frame mounts are NLA and that the uro brand ones don't fit...
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:23 AM
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OK

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Found some cheaper here and smaller 1"

Superior RideEFFEX™ 18-1901 - Spring Spacer | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I seen those ones, and they worked really well on his ride. I may just get those and use them.....as he made it here from Washington....with a full load, and had no issues....plus his ride height was nice...

Agreed on a full rebuild, but huge job and I have heard sub frame mounts are NLA and that the uro brand ones don't fit...
I can answer this question now.

Using this type of spring spacer is a gigundous PIA, unless ALL tension is relieved from the rear coil spring.

Like this
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs

Here is the 1978 280SE that received these spring spacers today.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/339662-whunter-joins-darkside-gasoline-1978-280se.html

A friend and I took six hours of wrestling to get them in place.
We failed to notice how much time it took (until it was done), because of the fun/exercise being violent (beating them into submission).

20/20 hind sight, we should have lowered the sub frame.

It is too late for a test drive tonight, more feedback on these spring spacers tomorrow.

.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2013, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post

It is too late for a test drive tonight, more feedback on these spring spacers tomorrow.

.
Sweet I guess I will stay away from those ones, guessing the metal twist in ones....are the best bet.....

Can't wait for the feedback, and I hope you snapped a few photos....least before and after...so I can see if that was 6hours well spent

I am glad someone else besides me, is giving them a shot and is going to give some feedback!
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:39 AM
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I drove 1,500 miles up from Arizona to Washington to retrieve my car parts before the mortgage company had them junked. I knew I would have a full load, so I brought these spring helpers that I found on a W115 in the wrecking yard:


As I was loading the car, I could tell that it was sagging way too much.


The spring helpers were fairly easy to install. I lifted one corner at a time and installed them in the rear only (2 in each rear spring).


They did help to lift up the rear of the car and stiffened the suspension as well. I think they probably saved my springs from getting worn out, though I think the trip is what did in my shock absorbers.


They got me the rest of the 1,500 miles back to Arizona. I think the metal twist-in type like what I used would be a good band-aid repair until new springs could be installed. I think my springs survived the trip.
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:56 AM
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That is amazing Squiggle Dog
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:35 AM
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those rubber spacers have been around forever

i remember once having a tuff install even with the springs fully extended, forget what vehicle at this point, they just wouldn't go in but i could tell if the rubber spacers were just a tad shorter in width it would be dooable, i think they only came in one standard size and shape, for a universal application fitting

ended up slicing the rubber lips (upper, lower inside only) down with box cutters, you can work one or both lips depending how tight the gap working with, rather than using the full one piece length, i also cut the spacer in sections suitable for easier fitting

basically i recall it being a half circle shape to fit in a universal way, or most standard sized springs, some way more of a matching fit than others

picture this cross section shape 'u' (reversed lower section 'n' not seen here) for the spacers and cutting down the inner portions, which are fairly thin (however robust in application) rubber where they extend past the half circle area

anyway, i do remember being able to hammer in cut off sections that way quite easily but i don't remember if the spacers stayed in place having modded them, or cutting off quite a bit of the inner lips, but i think it worked out

Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
I can answer this question now.

Using this type of spring spacer is a gigundous PIA, unless ALL tension is relieved from the rear coil spring.

Like this
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs

Here is the 1978 280SE that received these spring spacers today.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/339662-whunter-joins-darkside-gasoline-1978-280se.html

A friend and I took six hours of wrestling to get them in place.
We failed to notice how much time it took (until it was done), because of the fun/exercise being violent (beating them into submission).

20/20 hind sight, we should have lowered the sub frame.

It is too late for a test drive tonight, more feedback on these spring spacers tomorrow.

.

Last edited by 300D85; 06-09-2013 at 10:05 AM.
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  #11  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:00 AM
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Squiggle Dog, If you had a flat out on the road... would you have to unpack all that stuff on your trunk lid ?
They have new fangled inventions called ' trailers' ... which are made to avoid the spring issues, etc...
LOL
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Squiggle Dog, If you had a flat out on the road... would you have to unpack all that stuff on your trunk lid ?
They have new fangled inventions called ' trailers' ... which are made to avoid the spring issues, etc...
LOL
Yes, I would have had to unpack the items in the trunk to get at the spare tire. I barely had enough money to pay for diesel there and back, let alone renting or buying a trailer.

Trust me, the only reason I overloaded my car like that is because I have no job, no source of income other than selling used Mercedes parts, a mountain of debt, and the mortgage company gave me only a few weeks to retrieve my spare parts, otherwise they would have been disposed of.

I think that when people have a steady income, they forget what it's like for the rest of us that live in harder times. I wanted to rent a small moving truck, but I couldn't afford that, so it was either drive my car up there and load what I could, or lose all my spare parts (new old stock taillights, parts I need for future repairs, rare stuff that I would probably never find or be able to afford again).

A trailer would have cost more than I paid for my car, LOL.
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:49 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Sweet I guess I will stay away from those ones, guessing the metal twist in ones....are the best bet.....

Can't wait for the feedback, and I hope you snapped a few photos....least before and after...so I can see if that was 6 hours well spent

I am glad someone else besides me, is giving them a shot and is going to give some feedback!
Sorry, no pictures yet.

I will say they are fantastic, the car is perfectly level now.

Previously riding with no load, the headlights where point into the sky.

The first picture in this post is how my wifes car LEVEL - looked with NO load.
My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project

.
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2013, 07:30 PM
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Just threw in some 1.5" twist ins at the rear and 1" in the front. The rear sits level and the rear wheels sit straight when viewing from behind. Stopped a lot of the lane wander and the rear squatting when accelerating.
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:37 PM
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New shocks people...
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