Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 06-16-2013, 04:54 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
X2

There's a lot more to a used car than what the seller tells you. It takes time to forensically unravel the truth about a car's past - then you never really know for sure.

You can buy a new car, and be left wondering too, when the car's left in a shop's custody - you never know what's taken place.

The wheel lug bolts do look somewhat cheezy IMHO too. Are they unsafe being that short??
Definitely agree on the look of the lug bolts...the extended ones look a lot better, but after a lot of research and searching, plus having the same short lug bolts (purchased from the MB dealer parts dept) on my SD, I'm okay with them. But the shorter bolts are identical except that the head sits lower...again, a genuine MB part. You can't get the extended ones new anymore (at least not from MB) as they were discontinued due to breaking/shearing off.

__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:14 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
Beyond aesthetics, it's easier to confirm lug bolts are all in place if the tips are flush with the face. You can pop clean caps onto previously loved long lug bolts, or so I heard. Snapping lug bolts aren't a problem in California particularly if you apply anti-seize to the threads and cup. If you mind who touches your lug bolts and carry a $15 Harbor Freight torque wrench with the jack, they'll never be over-tightened.

They are 107 or 126 prefix wheels rather than 124 prefix, right?

Just curious, is it an MB Behr, after market Behr or Nissens radiator?

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:18 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBZ123 View Post
That's exactly what I was getting at with the question regarding the most recent service. Hard to imagine an Indy filling it with standard antifreeze let alone a dealer? Talk about juxtaposition! Such a clean engine bay and then - WHAMMO! oops upside ya head - there's the green stuff.

As for the lugs, I seem to remember reading, here in the forum, the longer bolts are NLA and the short ones are standard replacement. Then again, I could have completely dreamt that up.

OP - How's the undercarriage look? And if you could still chime in on my previous queries, it would be appreciated.

MBZ123
Undercarriage looks good. I need to replace the rear sway bar links, and that's next on my list. The only real leaking is from the transmission, and I knew that when I bough the car (it was divulged by the PO). The transmission also jerks (with a slight delay) when shifted from park to reverse. I've read that these transmissions can last up to about 125K, depending on how they were maintained (fluid & filter changes, especially). I've already talked to a local shop that I specializes in rebuilding MB transmissions and has a good reputation. So that's the direction that I am headed, at some point. I do not plan to put any money into the current transmission.

Okay, let's talk about the coolant. It actually looks blue. It's certainly not the generic green stuff you buy at PepBoys. I just went down and checked it, as well as the genuine MB coolant that I bought at the dealer, in both the SDL and the SD. The coolant in the SDL looks blue, as I said, as does what is inside the unopened container that I bought at the dealer (specially for the SDL). It states that it is for aluminum engines.

The SD has what looks like yellow coolant, and the two unopened containers of genuine MB coolant that I have in the trunk also look yellowish. The part numbers on the coolant bottles for the two cars are different.

My mechanic only uses genuine MB or OEM parts. The MB coolant that I got for the SD, I actually purchased from my mechanic.

See pics below. Let me know if you're seeing something that I'm not seeing. The last two photos are the SD...

300SDL:






300SD:


__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:24 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Beyond aesthetics, it's easier to confirm lug bolts are all in place if the tips are flush with the face. You can pop clean caps onto previously loved long lug bolts, or so I heard. Snapping lug bolts aren't a problem in California particularly if you apply anti-seize to the threads and cup. If you mind who touches your lug bolts and carry a $15 Harbor Freight torque wrench with the jack, they'll never be over-tightened.

They are 107 or 126 prefix wheels rather than 124 prefix, right?

Just curious, is it an MB Behr, after market Behr or Nissens radiator?

Sixto
87 300D
I purchased the radiator from a fellow forum member who pulled it from a wrecked SDL. I believe it was made in 2011. As far as I know it's an MB Behr. I had posted that i was having a hard time finding a new radiator online, and before I found the used one on the forum (thanks to those who responded), which is what is installed, I also found one place online that had two Behrs in stock, so I ordered one and have it sitting in the box, just in case I ever need it. The used one arrived first, so that's what I had installed. My mechanic pressure tested it and said everything looked good.

How do I tell the difference between MB Behr and after market Behr? The box that my NOS is in is yellow and blue (I can take a picture if necessary).

Yes, 126 prefix wheels.
__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)

Last edited by chrisbus; 06-16-2013 at 05:45 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:26 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Forgot to mention the pin stripes...I agree, not really to my taste, especially how they continue above the head lights, but it's original paint (and pin stripes) from 1986...sort of retro cool (at least that's how I justify it). ;-)

You should have seen the house that the old guy original owner lived in...it was painted bright canary yellow and was huge. I got to go inside when I purchased the car and he had the popcorn ceiling with metallic glitter flakes in it...I felt like I was back in the 70s...shag carpet and all. Obviously he likes yellow (or did at the time). Not sure why MB decided to call this color "light ivory". It's not as yellow as an 86 Couple DeVille in Cadillac yellow, but it's darned close!
__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:45 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue. It's a pity it looks green through the reservoir as the reservoir yellows with age. Honda brand coolant is a darker shade of blue and there's a following of MB'ers who swear by it.

A 722.3 should be good for 250-300K miles with basic service. With the symptoms you describe, it doesn't make a lot of sense to drop it for new seals alone, though consider seals that can be replaced without dropping the tranny if you don't plan to put a lot of miles on the car.

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:50 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue. It's a pity it looks green through the reservoir as the reservoir yellows with age. Honda brand coolant is a darker shade of blue and there's a following of MB'ers who swear by it.

A 722.3 should be good for 250-300K miles with basic service. With the symptoms you describe, it doesn't make a lot of sense to drop it for new seals alone, though consider seals that can be replaced without dropping the tranny if you don't plan to put a lot of miles on the car.

Sixto
87 300D
Thanks for the input. I did replace the coolant reservoir in the SD, as the old one cracked. You're right, though...the yellowing of the plastic does make the blue look green!

I forgot to mention one other symptom of my transmission...it sometimes shifts from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 at the same time, depending on the load/acceleration, and I've also noticed that sometimes when it kicks down a gear, it will jerk a bit.
__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-16-2013, 05:53 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
My only other issue with this car is that the engine seems to be louder than it should be, as compared to the two other SDLs that I drove. I posted about this previously and received several suggestions that I plan on having my mechanic look at next time it's in for service. I'm wondering if the transmission could have anything to do with this...

Vibration from engine compartment - common causes in OM603
__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-16-2013, 06:04 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
I forgot to mention one other symptom of my transmission...it sometimes shifts from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 at the same time, depending on the load/acceleration, and I've also noticed that sometimes when it kicks down a gear, it will jerk a bit.
My 300D does the almost simultaneous 2-3 3-4 under light to medium throttle for the ~80K miles I've had the car and who knows how long with the PO. Mash the pedal and it shifts properly. Someone suggested dropping the valve body for a thorough cleaning. I don't yet trust myself with the level of cleanliness that job requires.

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 06-16-2013, 06:07 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
My only other issue with this car is that the engine seems to be louder than it should be, as compared to the two other SDLs that I drove. I posted about this previously and received several suggestions that I plan on having my mechanic look at next time it's in for service. I'm wondering if the transmission could have anything to do with this...

Vibration from engine compartment - common causes in OM603
I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 06-16-2013, 06:19 PM
chrisbus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D
Encapsulation panels are in place, as is hood pad, though it's in need of replacement soon. I just did a diesel purge and that had no effect. It's hard to describe the noise I'm referring to...it's more like a vibration, and just makes the engine sound loud, especially as the revs climb. It's almost like I'm driving an unrefined GM 4 cylinder.

I will add chain stretch and IP timing to the list of suggested items to have checked (along with the serp belt tensioner arm, pulley, shock & spring and the engine vibration damper shocks). I just had the motor mounts replaced, so it's not those. Thanks for the suggestions.

BTW, the previous owner's son replaced the injectors with Monark injectors. I know he did a bunch of research on it, and purchased his own pop tester to do the work. I'm not sure when that work was done, though, so it's possible that they need to be cleaned. I remember him telling me that his dad was very gentle and slow with the car, and that when he (the son) drove it, he liked to push it hard. Other than the diesel purge that I just performed, it's probably in need of a good "Italian tune-up"...
__________________
1986 300SDL - 116K
2014 Prius Plug-in (company car)
2014 Q5 TDI (wife's car)
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 06-18-2013, 05:18 AM
MBZ123's Avatar
So F&@%ING Hollywood Baby
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 326
mmmmmmkay class?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
I purchased the radiator from a fellow forum member who pulled it from a wrecked SDL. I believe it was made in 2011. As far as I know it's an MB Behr. I had posted that i was having a hard time finding a new radiator online, and before I found the used one on the forum (thanks to those who responded), which is what is installed, I also found one place online that had two Behrs in stock, so I ordered one and have it sitting in the box,
The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue.
Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
My 300D does the almost simultaneous 2-3 3-4 under light to medium throttle...Mash the pedal and it shifts properly.
Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D
Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
It's hard to describe the noise I'm referring to...it's more like a vibration, and just makes the engine sound loud, especially as the revs climb.

BTW, the previous owner's son replaced the injectors with Monark injectors...I remember him telling me that his dad was very gentle and slow with the car, and that when he (the son) drove it, he liked to push it hard. Other than the diesel purge that I just performed, it's probably in need of a good "Italian tune-up"...
I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!

Good lux

MBZ123
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rhona" 218k
1986 300SDL "Johanna" 166k - Abducted 5/15 outta SFV Reward 4 info
1984 300TD "Petra" 212k - Parts yard pirate, arrrrgh
1982 300CD "FrankenFemme" 178k - Eyes only TS-XWRKS transplant abomination (loc. classified)
1980 230CE "Lulu" aka "Terminal" 277k - Dying the slow death
1985 300CD "Gerda" 203k - She ain't playin' SOLD
1983 300TD "Svetlana" 240k...and pleading for more. SOLD


"What a heavy load Einstein must've had...F&@%!NG morons everywhere!" - David Lynch
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 06-18-2013, 05:18 AM
MBZ123's Avatar
So F&@%ING Hollywood Baby
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 326
mmmmmmkay class?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
I purchased the radiator from a fellow forum member who pulled it from a wrecked SDL. I believe it was made in 2011. As far as I know it's an MB Behr. I had posted that i was having a hard time finding a new radiator online, and before I found the used one on the forum (thanks to those who responded), which is what is installed, I also found one place online that had two Behrs in stock, so I ordered one and have it sitting in the box,
The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue.
Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
My 300D does the almost simultaneous 2-3 3-4 under light to medium throttle...Mash the pedal and it shifts properly.
Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D
Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbus View Post
It's hard to describe the noise I'm referring to...it's more like a vibration, and just makes the engine sound loud, especially as the revs climb.

BTW, the previous owner's son replaced the injectors with Monark injectors...I remember him telling me that his dad was very gentle and slow with the car, and that when he (the son) drove it, he liked to push it hard. Other than the diesel purge that I just performed, it's probably in need of a good "Italian tune-up"...
I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!

Good lux

MBZ123

__________________
1987 300SDL "Rhona" 218k
1986 300SDL "Johanna" 166k - Abducted 5/15 outta SFV Reward 4 info
1984 300TD "Petra" 212k - Parts yard pirate, arrrrgh
1982 300CD "FrankenFemme" 178k - Eyes only TS-XWRKS transplant abomination (loc. classified)
1980 230CE "Lulu" aka "Terminal" 277k - Dying the slow death
1985 300CD "Gerda" 203k - She ain't playin' SOLD
1983 300TD "Svetlana" 240k...and pleading for more. SOLD


"What a heavy load Einstein must've had...F&@%!NG morons everywhere!" - David Lynch
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page