New-to-me 1986 300SDL
 

Finally getting around to posting pictures. I purchased this car almost a month ago from the original owner...80 year old man. He had all the records, all the keys, a binder full of service records and the car was in immaculate condition. I've wanted to replace my SD with an SDL for a while, and just had to jump on this one. It has been garage kept since day one, and it shows. The car still has original paint, which is in really great shape. The interior is near perfect. It's obvious that he had the seats color sprayed at some point, but whoever did the work did a good job. I actually didn't notice this until after I bought the car.

I had the brakes, motor mounts, radiator and AC push button control replaced right after I bought it, and it's going to need a new transmission (rebuilt) at some point, as the current one leaks and there's a bit of a delay and a slight jerk into reverse.

The car came with chrome 15 hole rims and old tires, however I swapped those onto my 300SD, which I'm selling. Today I picked up some rims which I bought locally and had refinished. They look great!

Also took the original Becker out and sent it back to Becker Autosound to clean/rehab and install an auxiliary cable so that I can use it with my iPod/iPhone. And I replaced the headlight doors, which were old and cracked, and the cruise control amp with a rebuilt unit from fellow forum member JamesDean (highly recommended, by the way).

This car has a #14 head, but the temp reads normally, unlike one of the other SDLs that I looked at, and it's obvious that it has never been overheated (I plan to keep it that way). I'm amazed at how much smoother the 603 engine is than the 617 in my SD, not to mention the difference in performance!

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Simply......
 

Very clean and very nice! Just wish he could have ordered something a little more spicey in the color combo field.....

Thanks! Definitely not my first color choice, especially on the exterior. It's growing on me, though...particularly the palomino interior. I think it looks a lot better since I got rid of the chrome wheels and put back on stock painted.

Wow, that is such a nice example!
I am NOT jealous :D

I too was amazed at the difference between the 603 and the 617. The five cylinder seemed like a tractor engine compared with the six.

For even more performance you can remove the ALDA and set the boost pressure up to 13psi. My SDL was only making 7 psi of boost when I got him...

OK OP you ready? I gotta buncha q's...
 

When was the most recent service according to the records you were furnished?

How was it obvious the seats were re-dyed?

Please qualify "temp reads normally" and how did it differ in the "other" SDL you looked at?

Finally, where did you get the wheels redone? They look really good.

Thanks,

MBZ123

Very beautiful SDL congrats

Awesome SDL despite it not being the best color.

Nice looking radiator too!



.

How is this obvious? Why did you replace the radiator? Because it was more than 5 years old is a good answer but was it cracked or leaking?

There isn't much to criticize in the pictures so I'll say it needs proper length lug bolts. I'm not feeling the pinstripes continuing over the headlights or what appears to be green coolant, either.

Sixto
87 300D

Color/condition/records/miles/options/ghetto-window-tinting/exorbitant pricing/seller-deception, or most anything can kill a used car's desirability from the standpoint of a buyer - but at the end of the day, condition/records trumps everything on aging/scarce used cars.

Discovering false and/or misleading pitches about any used car after seeing it - will kill the deal for me in a heartbeat. Everything must match-up when determining the credibility of the car and seller.

X2

There's a lot more to a used car than what the seller tells you. It takes time to forensically unravel the truth about a car's past - then you never really know for sure.

You can buy a new car, and be left wondering too, when the car's left in a shop's custody - you never know what's taken place.

The wheel lug bolts do look somewhat cheezy IMHO too. :D Are they unsafe being that short??

Ahhhhhhhh..beat me to it!
 

That's exactly what I was getting at with the question regarding the most recent service. Hard to imagine an Indy filling it with standard antifreeze let alone a dealer? Talk about juxtaposition! Such a clean engine bay and then - WHAMMO! oops upside ya head - there's the green stuff.

As for the lugs, I seem to remember reading, here in the forum, the longer bolts are NLA and the short ones are standard replacement. Then again, I could have completely dreamt that up.

OP - How's the undercarriage look? And if you could still chime in on my previous queries, it would be appreciated.

MBZ123

Sorry, for some reason I wasn't receiving e-mails on these responses.

Regarding the service, the original owner's son is a mechanic at a local BMW dealer, so he has done the maintenance for the past few years. I don't have actual records of the work that has been done during that time, but have lots of print outs for parts orders placed online. Some things that he has done are obvious...changing the belts, fuel lines, shocks, etc. The original owner used the dealer for service for the first 15 or so years of ownership...all of those records I have.

Seats...there are a couple of areas where it looks like some sort of a spray was used on the seats. On the drivers seat on the metal hinge between the back and seat rest, there is what looks like a zip tie and it has this coating on it. Also, on the front edge of the passenger seat I can almost see what looks like the original finish underneath whatever was sprayed on. The original owner's son did mention that the seats/leather had been reconditioned, however I didn't press him on what that meant.

The temp on this SDL normally reads about 85 and gets up to as high as about 95, but never higher since I've owned it. From what I've read online, that is the normal range. The higher limit that I gave is when the AC is on and I'm sitting at a stop light, or when pulling a load on a highway incline (which we have here in SoCal). The other SDL that I drove sat at around 95 to 100 and got a bit higher than that while I was test driving it with the AC on. As I side note, I'm probably going to replace the green temp sensor on mine with a red temp sensor so that aux fan will kick on and the AC compressor will kick off at slightly lower limits. I have observed the aux fan on low while the AC is on.

I purchased the used wheels from SoCal Mercedes Parts in Orange, CA. They sent the wheels out to a guy that they use all of the time, and that also does wheels for House of Imports (a local MB dealer in Orange County). Yes, I think they look great.

Radiator...when I took the car to my mechanic right after purchase, I had him change the oil and filters and give the car a once over. The metal clamp where the upper radiator hose connects to the top of the radiator was positioned a bit further out than normal (he noticed this; I hadn't), so he recommended checking this. I had this connection break at the top of the radiator on my 84 300SD, so I knew this could be a problem. Sure enough, when he removed the upper radiator hose to check it, the connection snapped and I was forced to replace the radiator.

Lug bolts...I researched these as well. The extended lug bolts are no longer available from MB...there were apparently problems with them snapping due to being over torqued. The car came with the extended lug bolts with chrome 15 hole wheels, which I didn't like. I used the extended bolts temporarily on the painted rims that I switched onto the car from my SD, however they bolts had chrome caps, some of which were missing. So I just bit the bullet and ordered new MB lugs from PeachParts and had those installed when the refinished wheels were installed. Didn't want to take a chance that the old extended bolts had been improperly torqued in the past and also didn't like that some were missing the caps (which I couldn't find anywhere).

Coolant...see below...

Couldn't agree more. I haven't found anything that was intentionally mislead...I lay no claim to be the most savvy car buyer...I'm sure that others would have asked a lot more questions and probably could have scored a better price. But, the car is worth what the buyer is willing to pay for it. This car certainly doesn't fit into my criteria of being the ideal SDL (not the best color, and of course there are things that it needs), however it's damn close based on what I've seen being an old MB diesel owner for the past 4 years. I'm very happy with my purchase, and in the end, that's all that matters. :)

Definitely agree on the look of the lug bolts...the extended ones look a lot better, but after a lot of research and searching, plus having the same short lug bolts (purchased from the MB dealer parts dept) on my SD, I'm okay with them. But the shorter bolts are identical except that the head sits lower...again, a genuine MB part. You can't get the extended ones new anymore (at least not from MB) as they were discontinued due to breaking/shearing off.

Beyond aesthetics, it's easier to confirm lug bolts are all in place if the tips are flush with the face. You can pop clean caps onto previously loved long lug bolts, or so I heard. Snapping lug bolts aren't a problem in California particularly if you apply anti-seize to the threads and cup. If you mind who touches your lug bolts and carry a $15 Harbor Freight torque wrench with the jack, they'll never be over-tightened.

They are 107 or 126 prefix wheels rather than 124 prefix, right?

Just curious, is it an MB Behr, after market Behr or Nissens radiator?

Sixto
87 300D

Undercarriage looks good. I need to replace the rear sway bar links, and that's next on my list. The only real leaking is from the transmission, and I knew that when I bough the car (it was divulged by the PO). The transmission also jerks (with a slight delay) when shifted from park to reverse. I've read that these transmissions can last up to about 125K, depending on how they were maintained (fluid & filter changes, especially). I've already talked to a local shop that I specializes in rebuilding MB transmissions and has a good reputation. So that's the direction that I am headed, at some point. I do not plan to put any money into the current transmission.

Okay, let's talk about the coolant. It actually looks blue. It's certainly not the generic green stuff you buy at PepBoys. I just went down and checked it, as well as the genuine MB coolant that I bought at the dealer, in both the SDL and the SD. The coolant in the SDL looks blue, as I said, as does what is inside the unopened container that I bought at the dealer (specially for the SDL). It states that it is for aluminum engines.

The SD has what looks like yellow coolant, and the two unopened containers of genuine MB coolant that I have in the trunk also look yellowish. The part numbers on the coolant bottles for the two cars are different.

My mechanic only uses genuine MB or OEM parts. The MB coolant that I got for the SD, I actually purchased from my mechanic.

See pics below. Let me know if you're seeing something that I'm not seeing. The last two photos are the SD...

300SDL:

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300SD:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18b3fbc9.jpg
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I purchased the radiator from a fellow forum member who pulled it from a wrecked SDL. I believe it was made in 2011. As far as I know it's an MB Behr. I had posted that i was having a hard time finding a new radiator online, and before I found the used one on the forum (thanks to those who responded), which is what is installed, I also found one place online that had two Behrs in stock, so I ordered one and have it sitting in the box, just in case I ever need it. The used one arrived first, so that's what I had installed. My mechanic pressure tested it and said everything looked good.

How do I tell the difference between MB Behr and after market Behr? The box that my NOS is in is yellow and blue (I can take a picture if necessary).

Yes, 126 prefix wheels.

Forgot to mention the pin stripes...I agree, not really to my taste, especially how they continue above the head lights, but it's original paint (and pin stripes) from 1986...sort of retro cool (at least that's how I justify it). ;-)

You should have seen the house that the old guy original owner lived in...it was painted bright canary yellow and was huge. I got to go inside when I purchased the car and he had the popcorn ceiling with metallic glitter flakes in it...I felt like I was back in the 70s...shag carpet and all. Obviously he likes yellow (or did at the time). Not sure why MB decided to call this color "light ivory". It's not as yellow as an 86 Couple DeVille in Cadillac yellow, but it's darned close!

Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue. It's a pity it looks green through the reservoir as the reservoir yellows with age. Honda brand coolant is a darker shade of blue and there's a following of MB'ers who swear by it.

A 722.3 should be good for 250-300K miles with basic service. With the symptoms you describe, it doesn't make a lot of sense to drop it for new seals alone, though consider seals that can be replaced without dropping the tranny if you don't plan to put a lot of miles on the car.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for the input. I did replace the coolant reservoir in the SD, as the old one cracked. You're right, though...the yellowing of the plastic does make the blue look green!

I forgot to mention one other symptom of my transmission...it sometimes shifts from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 at the same time, depending on the load/acceleration, and I've also noticed that sometimes when it kicks down a gear, it will jerk a bit.

My only other issue with this car is that the engine seems to be louder than it should be, as compared to the two other SDLs that I drove. I posted about this previously and received several suggestions that I plan on having my mechanic look at next time it's in for service. I'm wondering if the transmission could have anything to do with this...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339244-vibration-engine-compartment-common-causes-om603.html

My 300D does the almost simultaneous 2-3 3-4 under light to medium throttle for the ~80K miles I've had the car and who knows how long with the PO. Mash the pedal and it shifts properly. Someone suggested dropping the valve body for a thorough cleaning. I don't yet trust myself with the level of cleanliness that job requires.

Sixto
87 300D

I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D

Encapsulation panels are in place, as is hood pad, though it's in need of replacement soon. I just did a diesel purge and that had no effect. It's hard to describe the noise I'm referring to...it's more like a vibration, and just makes the engine sound loud, especially as the revs climb. It's almost like I'm driving an unrefined GM 4 cylinder.

I will add chain stretch and IP timing to the list of suggested items to have checked (along with the serp belt tensioner arm, pulley, shock & spring and the engine vibration damper shocks). I just had the motor mounts replaced, so it's not those. Thanks for the suggestions.

BTW, the previous owner's son replaced the injectors with Monark injectors. I know he did a bunch of research on it, and purchased his own pop tester to do the work. I'm not sure when that work was done, though, so it's possible that they need to be cleaned. I remember him telling me that his dad was very gentle and slow with the car, and that when he (the son) drove it, he liked to push it hard. Other than the diesel purge that I just performed, it's probably in need of a good "Italian tune-up"...

mmmmmmkay class?
 

The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!:D

Good lux

MBZ123

mmmmmmkay class?
 

The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!:D

Good lux

MBZ123