Clutch - It just doesn't feel the same
 

Well I finally got the clutch bleeding SNAFU sorted out...kind of...it works now, at least! :o Little niggling things, now. Before this all happened, my clutch pedal felt firm...I assume like factory. It only traveled about a millimeter or so before you felt the resistance. I liked it; it was a sign that that it worked great and I was assured that I could shift soundly. Now....the pedal travels about 1/3 - 1/2 the way down until the clutch actually disengages. While it works, I'm wondering why the sudden change...I -think- I bled the system out all the way, but how can I be sure? Per the Haynes manual, I read the short tidbit about setting pushrod clearance (I had to take the MC out to re-bleed it...don't ask why :o ) via the eccentric bolt. Well, there's no locking nut; it's just a bolt/washer and that's it. After about an hour of fiddling around with it, no change whatsoever. :(

I'm assuming SOMEONE has had this problem before...no lying now :D

EDIT: I've been driving the girl for about a week now w/o any mechanical issues.

I am not that familiar with these clutch systems but it sounds like you may still have some air.

You bled the system by the brake slave to clutch slave method?

I would bleed the system again.
I think you should have had more than a mm of free play.

I've tried bleeding the clutch some more using the caliper slave/clutch slave hose method. I'm not getting any return fluid to the MC reservoir. Clutch still feels the same. :( It almost feels like there's a pocket in the clutch MC that can't be filled with this method...

I used that method quite a bit and finally got it down so it was dependable. I Put hose clamps on both ends of the clear hose, opening both bleeders (box end wrenches on both slave nipples) then from outside the car pumped the brake pedal by hand like crazy, crawl back under, shut bleeders, if there no clutch repeat. Make sure the clutch pedal stays up. Is that more or less how you did it?

I liked someones suggestion of using a finger pump type can oiler. Just make sure it is either new and really clean before putting brake fluid in it.

Using some method like the squirt can to push the fluid up through the system instead if using the brake slave is like comparing bleeding brakes the old fashioned way compared to using the pressure bleeder, except the squirt can is cheaper than a pressure bleeder.