Morning Merc-guru's,

Finally got around to checking the timing chain (err...remembered to check it) when doing my normal (maintenance) valve adjustment. Having never done it before I wanted to get confirmation that I'm reading this right...I used the 2 mm method described in the FSM...and it looks like I'm at 12* (If I'm reading the FSM correctly, the target is 11* so I'm pretty happy) If I'm reading this right. Thoughts?


'85 300D 167000 mi. 70k of which are mine.
617.952 engine

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong

I would be happy with 4 or 5 degrees but would start thinking about a new chain, at 11 degrees I would be ordering my new chain and reading up on the job.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Very timely for me. I did my valves last fall but did not check the chain ( long story ) Then today I am driving down the road and ticking off items I need to repair on the SD this weekend. I looked down at the odometer and crud she just hit 216,000 miles SOOOOOO ! One more item for the list. But on a high note she is running so damn good !
Alan

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )

A bit confused here and wanting to get things clarified....what timing should ideally be displayed??

Attached are 2 of the pages I went by in the Service Manual

See Step 7 in the first pdf referencing "intake valve opens" and the chart in the second pdf re: the 11* timing..

Thoughts ???

Attached Files

	FSM 215:4.pdf (244.7 KB, 161 views)
	FSM 220:1.pdf (263.4 KB, 165 views)

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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong

I need to do this this weekend for my 81 240. The FSM is as clear as mud IMHO on what all this means? Is there a step by step write up for idiots like me?

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1978 Mercedes 240D
1981 Mercedes 240D
1982 Mercedes 240D

When you are doing the 2mm Method what ever degrees you end up with and see on the Crank Damper you need to compare to the chart in the Factory Service Manual to see the actual degrees that it is off.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks 911....I believe I'm all set then

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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong

NC-Diesel

I hit the manual for my info but shoulda searched a bit more .... there's just a huge amount of wisdom on this site ... like this:
PeachPartsWiki: Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong

You are correct. The spec per your procedure is 11° ATDC for a used chain.

Others are confused...........as usual.

Bring the cam mark up to alignment with the notch at #1 cylinder near TDC.
Read the degrees on the crankshaft pulley.
If the reading is above 5 degrees you should consider a new chain and tensioner.
Snapped old stretched cam chains destroy diesel engines.

My recommendation is not to do this - well not to do this and rely only this method to ascertain if either a chain should be replaced or an offset key should be fitted.

By all means do this quick check - but the so called 2mm lift method is a much more reliable method.

The problem with the 2mm method is that it is complicated. It is particularly complicated if you are doing it for the first time. But like anything it gets easier each time you do it.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!