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I was working on my need change for coolant cardboard sign, already found the perfect street corner to stand on :P |
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but the radiator, stat housing, heater core is alum. |
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I love how squeaky clean the cooling systems are on my MB and VWs :) -J |
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On the OM617 and earlier engines: IMO; The radiator, thermostat housing, and heater core are extremely rare issues if the coolant is changed on schedule. My rule of thumb is to drain / flush the cooling system a MINIMUM of every three years, or when the coolant test fails -45° C, regardless of miles driven. WIS document# WH20.80P-KW00-00z I have seen many abused engines that have original factory coolant at 250,000 miles, the cooling system corrosion is shocking. Often they require a cylinder head gasket. . |
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* Heat exchangers are much higher quality aluminum. * Heat exchangers rarely have mixed metals (electrolysis) as engines do * Heat exchangers are more subject to calcium depositing in the small passages. I am old school: Here is an example of extreme cleaning on my personal vehicles. #1. Supplies = a gallon of Cider Vinegar, fresh antifreeze, a small box of baking soda. #2. Drain the cooling system #3. Pour in the gallon of Cider Vinegar #4. Top off the cooling system with water #5. Take a thirty minute drive #6. Drain the cooling system ********************************** #7. Flush the cooling system ********************************* #8. Drain the cooling system - - - Neutralize the cooling system - - - #8A. Pour in four - six ounces of baking soda #8B. Fill the cooling system with water #8C. Take a thirty minute drive #8D. Flush the cooling system #8E. Drain the cooling system #8F. Pour in one gallon of fresh antifreeze #8G. Top off the system with distilled water #8H. Take a thirty minute drive, expecting to see several temperature guage fluctuations, as air bleeds out of the system. . |
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Use test strips or read the voltage present between the coolant and ground. As the corrosion inhibiters wear out or are consumed the voltage goes higher I think..
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A neat trick I learned from my radiator shop guy, is to put a small piece of magnesium in the cooling system. It somehow counteracts the electrolysis damage that occurs in cooling systems/engines with a lot of aluminum. Also, not to add to the coolant debate (I have not read the old threads on the subject and want to learn), but if not green, what coolant came in the 1980's Diesel MB's? I can see that the newer aluminum head engines probably need different coolant, but the older iron head engines probably came with green coolant from the factory (only coolant available at the time?)....Rich
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FYI
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If you want to research the topic, use these terms: Galvanic anode sacrificial anode sacrificial anode radiator cap . |
I'm not sure this is common knowledge but the vast majority of cars built in the last 20 years have aluminum cyl heads running. The vast majority of cars built in the last 5 years have aluminum head and block. The coolant manufacturers are well aware of these facts and design their products accordingly. There is nothing special about the metallurgy in a Mercedes engine. Just change out the coolant every 2 years and you won't have anything to worry about.
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