Two non-mechanical questions. (But the car IS a diesel!)

First, what can you use to eliminate static electricity from repainted gauge needles?

My speedometer needle sticks till I get substantial speed (10-20mph.) Two things I've tried is to dip the needle in dishwasher soap and let it air dry. This works to eliminate static from coffee grinders and powder measures. Not here! The other method I've used is to wipe with a dryer sheet. This reduced the problem the best but it still slightly sticks (about 10mph.) Any better suggestions?

Second, being somewhat of a purist, I'm trying to eliminate the cord and connector for a USB port from an aftermarket radio. It has a wire coming out of the rear of the case with a short lead and the USB port on the end. I'd like to have a panel connector to which I can hook up my iPod.

Apparently there is no such thing as a panel mounted USB connector based on my Google search. Any suggestions for a 'neat' installation? I'm tired of the wires flopping around and visible.

So that's what's been happening to my speedometer!!!!

I wonder if putting some insulating black paint on the needle stop would impact it.

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Quite some time back in one of the M-B forums I read, someone suggested a drop of oil on the post. I didn't like the idea and never tried it but that was the only suggestion I heard.

I posted a general question on a tech board related to meters in which I participate, totally unrelated to cars. One of the gurus there who I know is quite knowledgeable about cars also, suggested something ladies used to use when they used to wear skirts, and that is a spray call Static Guard. I presume grocery stores have that in the laundry section. My next trip is to the grocery store and then pulling the instrument cluster out for the 29th time!! Should that work, I'll post here.

Would love to have suggestions on the USB connector question and any other suggestions re the static electricity. I do know they make a very expensive paint that eliminates static, but hardly worth it for one or two needles.

As to the USB port, here is my idea, assuming you have a 123/124/126 with the console fader:

Since you have removed the factory radio you will not be using the fader.

If you pull the fader apart you will see the guts come out rather easily leaving a shell behind. I would get a USB extension cable from a computer store, the kind with a vinyl shell around the USB female connector. With a little creativity you should be able to work that into the fader casing. Then plug the male end of the USB extension into the tail going to the radio.

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Just google "USB panel mount"...lots of choices.

usb panel mount - Google Search

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Thanks! My Google search suffered from my input. I've ordered the connector from Data Pro.

Hey Bob ---

Did you get paint from me? I haven't heard of needles sticking after being repainted.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

This sounds like an April Fool's joke. What day is it?

It'll be black, that's it.

I hope this is a joke that I just don't get, but if you guys are serious....

No I didn't. I got some acrylic paint which matched the original color, pulled the needles off, and repainted them. Do you sell anti static paint or paint speedometer needles?

This is no April Fool's joke. I've seen stuff here and on other boards where the problem has existed and various 'solutions' have been advanced.

As stated, the use of a Bounce sheet helped considerable but didn't eliminate it entirely. I understand this is a problem in delicate meters and the solution is an expensive paint that eliminates the static electricty. You can Google and learn. The magnetic field that moves the needle is not real strong and any static electricity, either on the face of the instrument cluster or the needle itself, will impact the action at the initiation of the magnetic field. One old time Mercedes mechanic suggested to me to wipe the face with Bounce. He said they did that for the occasional problem. I did that and if anything, made it worse. When I swap needles with an original faded one, the speedometer works fine.

I'm willing to learn, but I always thought the slow-speed bounce was due to the cable shaft / speedo socket being dry or worn.

Couldn't someone who wanted to paint the needles....simple use fingers nail polish?

I have never heard of static electricity coming from paint. I wonder if it's just condense that this happened? Possible it is a bad cable or something was damaged when the needle was removed?

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New speedo cable. It's not a bounce. It just doesn't move until you reach a higher speed. Obviously it sticks to the post until the magnetic field is strong enough to separate it. This happens. Trust me. Mercedes mechanics see it from other sources. Expensive anti static paints exist for delicate meters.


Yep. Nail polish works fine. Wish I had used it but I thought acrylic paint would be better.

I hadn't heard of it either and just because we hadn't heard it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.

The needle has been off quite a few times and I've even swapped it with another needle to verify the issue, as mentioned previously. A faded and unpainted needle works as it should.

Incidentally, this is on a 201.



I'll be pulling out the cluster again tomorrow (for the 29th time, I'm an expert now!) The best suggestion I have is from that other electronic board I frequent where one guru there suggested a spray called Static Guard. I bought it and will apply it. I'm pretty sure that will solve the problem.

It could be that the needle picked up some static electricity on the bench on which I originally disassembled it. I do quite a bit of electronic work on that bench and who knows what may have affected it. For all I know, it could be the paint that is prone to that. That's what I believe. Googling and reading up on static electricity is quite revealing.

I've only used the paint on a w123 and w126 cluster and it's acrylic IF I recall correctly.

I think I want to go test this on my 87 Champagne.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

USB port suggestion: remove innards of fader (bypass it prior to doing so) and install USB hub in original switch/housing:



Credit to Chad for this great modification (pic stolen from him)

Another idea: if you do the above, cut part of the dial and use it as a cover for the modified fader USB hub:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1527850-clarion-head-unit-installed-review.html

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