Anyone ever coat their gas tank ?
 

Its a 190 tank with the issue ,pulled out the tank last week to find a failed tank screen with rust debree ,an inside look is not terrible but the rust presents is their .So far Ive slushed muriatic acid over the walls 1/2 gallon,the trick here is to lay the tank flat onto one of those garden buggies ,you can push it back and forth without getting close to the fumes ,its important to NOT breathe or get any on you , let set for 10 minutes while flipping every so often,(I DONT RECOMMEND THE STEP WITH M ACID ,after all the work and smell /danger,NOT IMPRESSED) rinse with a touch of baking soda and alot OF water several times ,1/2 gallon of apple cider vinegar wash a set ,rinse cycle .The last was a phosphoric acid wash ,but let this set over night ,each step done very carefully with rubber gloves and water near by with baking soda.The phosphoric acid really has done the best and if dried provides a seal over the rust ,it wont hold up to gas though.Coat or not to coat ,that is the question.If Im not coating , Im just going to spray a whole can of wd-40 ,fill with water ,then drain ,that will at least give me some time before buying a new tank.

I restored a saddlebag style tank on my 1974 IH 100 pickup using a kit from POR-15. Granted that was a gasoline tank but that POR-15 paint is impervious to just about everything, I've got a spill on my driveway that's been there for five or six years now.

Try a radiator shop
 

I've taken gas tanks to the local radiator shop in the past for cleaning/flushing. Second the recommendation on the POR-15 kit. There is a product called Kreem that I've used on chopper gas tanks some years ago. All I can say about it is that it won't fix leaks from cracked welds and that old Harleys with no suspension in the back vibrate a lot.

The por-15 kit gives you a bottle of marine clean then a metal prep ,followed by qrt of the product coat.I wonder if the marine clean is just a mild acid like apple cider vinager,the metal prep is phosphoric acid you can by at Home Depot,then the real saling product is the sealer.I found at Orielleys auto parts a product called Red Kote ,the directs are straight forward ,not cheap at $35 a qrt and my tank at 18 gal. requires 2 .

3rd on the por15, did an MGB fuel tank.
No issues.

Dwayne

I went with the red kote ,got the tank fully coated and drying .The directions I followed require you to cleans the tank at the last step with acetone before inserting the red kote ,I did this twice just to be sure .The product looks like nail polish ,clear and a strawberry red ,I wonder just how close the chemical make up is to nail polish,maybe an old farmers trick ,who knows .Ill dry two days to make sure its cured then back on the car for fire up .At $90. for cost of etc ,etc, plus my time I may have nixxed the old rust tank issue for now ,Ill update if any issues arise.

I've got 4 years and 80k on a KBS sealed tank in my 300D and 3 years and 10k miles on my 350SL tank also sealed with KBS. No issues with either.

KBS is similar to POR15, jegs carries KBS and I live near jegs so I went with KBS to to not have to pay shipping.


The key is not plugging up your vent line with the sealant. The previous owner of my 190SL made that mistake. I always blow some air through the vent during the drying process to keep it clear.

I just picked up the KBS Tank Sealer kit.

Like yourself, I found a rusty surprise when i peeked into the tank..

I hope to do this once I can find a place to rinse out the diesel residue. Not on my lawn, Not on my driveway... No idea where I am going to do this haha

what about the wagon tanks with the lower chamber? Any wagon owners use this?

My go at the KBS product.
Before, prepped, coated
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/10/ute3evy7.jpg