Replacing the starter is premature when it's known that deteriorated connections in the ignition circuit cause these same symptoms.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

60 Miles for a yard sale? Better be good...

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Frankly the fact that it works when its cold screams bad starter to me. I could be wrong but thats just my opinion. The starter is a ***** the first time you do one but after you figure out where to put the extensions and universal joints in there to get the leverage you need its not all that bad. I've had to replace the starter on both my 1985 SD and my previous 1979 300D. Provided he has cleaned the electrical connections and the problem still exists I would say replace the starter.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

I don't know why people don't use this method to remove the top bolt. It's been mentioned a few times but doesn't seem to stick. I did not have enough extensions or wobbles to get to the top bolt. I was thinking, why can't I remove the bolt from up top? I removed the air cleaner, and battery tray. I then slipped a 10mm socket onto the top bolt..now how to turn the socket? Wait 10mm...must mean I can put a 10mm box wrench on the Allen part of the socket. And there we go....I was able to break the bolt free and I was able to easily undo the starter connections. Then I removed the bottom bolt and slid the starter out....now mine is a non turbo so I don't know if the same can apply to a turbo....but its worth checking into..

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The non turbos can be accessed from the to side, and that is how I got the starter out of my 1979, however I seem to remember that when I did the one on my SD (turbo motor) I couldn't get at it from the top side, hence the large number of extensions, and I seem to recall two wobble joints.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Some of those top starter bolts are tight beyond imagination. Some not. You are not going to get a tight one started from above in my opinion. It can take everything you give a three foot power handle before they snap loose sometimes.

[QUOTE=funola;3171759]On the turbo models,isn't there a heat shield between the turbo and the starter or is the heat shield for the battery?

I had a starter on my 83 that would not start when hot and would just click and would have to let it cool overnight before it would start again. Battery and ground strap was good. This problem confounded me for a few months and it turned out to be partially shorted winding on the rotor that became more severe from heat. The short was due to a worn bushing causing the rotor iron core plates to pinch the winding causing a partial short to the core. I took the starter apart and rebuilt it with a good used rotor, new bushings and it's been fine since.

Other things you can try is check starter RPM (should be 140 RPM or above), starter current (should be around 300 amps). Mine was drawing 500 to 600 amps due to the partial short.[/QUOTE]

I did not comment on this when you previously posted this Info. Using a DC inductive Amp Meter I only get about 155 amps when I crank My Engine. I have ones by different companies; one is a Snap-on and they have similar readings.

The Multimeters with the Amperage Loop on them is meant for testing AC amps.
Sometime when You have the opportunity to use a Amp Meter made for DC Amps try that and see what reading you get.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The 300 amps is from memory and I could be off. Clamp on ammeters are made for DC also but until recently, not affordable. When I get a chance I will measure it again. I have both types, clamp type and one placed next to the wire (made by Snapon).

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3174393]

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

[QUOTE=funola;3174772]The 300 amps is from memory and I could be off. Clamp on ammeters are made for DC also but until recently, not affordable. When I get a chance I will measure it again. I have both types, clamp type and one placed next to the wire (made by Snapon).


You Memory is Good; 300 amps is what you said previously. I remember it because it was close to double of what I got.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

After two separate hour long trips the car would start up immediately after turning off. Only thing done was spraying the junction box with WD40. If it reoccurs I'll be back. Thanks for all the input!

Where is the junction box you sprayed? I have a similar problem on my 82 300SD

In the 3rd post Diesel911 has a picture of the junction box. You can follow the wire from the battery or from the starter, they meet in this plastic box with a plastic flip cover.

Once when I had similar starter problems, I changed everything else first. Ignition switch, Neutral switch, ... Finally had shop change starter (i think on 123 there is a chassis member in way. Starter was dirty and had some bad spots on commutator or whatever it is called. Depending on where it came to rest, it sometimes would not work. For example, I would pull in to to fill up with diesel and then have to push car out of way because it would not start. Then when it cooled a bit, it usually started. Seemed to be combination of dirt and wear.

Shop rebuilt my starter and it has been good since (about 15 years)

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3174839]The 300 cranking amps was on my 83 300D w 297k. I measured my 85 300D w 157k today with the digital clamp ammeter and it was 350 amps. The higher current on the 85 maybe due to lower mileage engine with higher compression.

Can you measure yours again with a clamp ammeter? You can get one from Radio Shack for $60.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked