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#61
09-28-2013, 01:31 PM
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...continued...
Assemble the locking lever and spring mechanism...
 ...and fit it to the casing. This locking lever is the cause of the hardest part of the assembly. You need to make sure that that spring does ping itself off as you fit the main shaft and the 1st gear / 2nd gear shifting mechanism goes into place.  To get the main shaft in place you need about four hands – slightly lift the lay shaft and tilt it so you can get the 3rd / 4th gear synchro mechanism in position – whilst you hold the casing still so that you can push back the spring (with out pinging it off) on the locking lever. Pushing the 3rd / 4th shift lever downwards helps to get the synchro under the cogs on the lay shaft.  You can now fit the external shift lever on the 1st / 2nd gear shift mechanism as well as the pivot pin on the other side of the casing.  In an attempt to try and stop leaks I'm spraying the gaskets with Hylomar. This stuff essentially turns your gaskets into sticky fly paper. The stickiness is meant to stay sticky.  Assemble the 5th gear / reverse linkage in the intermediate plate.  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 09-28-2013 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Added a picture 
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#62
09-28-2013, 01:37 PM
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...continued...
The peg on the end of the reverse lever has to be slotted into the cog on the sliding shaft that you fitted next to the lay shaft.
The fork end of the lock lever needs to be positioned correctly on the sliding mechanism part of the reverse / 5th gear linkage.  Once the intermediate plate is in place...  ...you can fit the fifth gear assembly.     Then fit the speedometer gear 
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#63
09-28-2013, 01:45 PM
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...continued...
Fit the rear cover / tail cone section – pass the long bolts all the way through the tail cone section, the intermediate plate to the main casing and tighten carefully. Align the 5th gear shifting mechanism with help of a stick / ball end on an Allen key.
 Fit the shim and then the yoke before fitting the new nut.  Fill the gearbox with 1.5 litres of ATF.  If you are filling on the side – don't forget about the vent in the tail cone section!!! 
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 09-28-2013 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Added a picture
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#64
09-28-2013, 01:54 PM
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I think that's it folks. I haven't shown absolutely every step - if anyone is unsure about it all let me know I'll try and answer your questions.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#65
11-22-2013, 03:25 AM
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Casing dimensions
Information for modifiers
Over all length of the 717.412 from the end of the tongue that sticks out from the back of the gear box to the mating surface at the bell housing is 51cm  The distance in from the end of the tongue (for the mount) to the surface of the output shaft on to which you mount a flex disc is 4cm So distance from bell house mounting surface to flex disc mounting surface is 47cm (Small print - I've done my best with these measurements - they should be good within a few mm - use this information at your own peril!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#66
11-22-2013, 07:51 AM
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Thank you so much!!!
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco...  " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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#67
11-22-2013, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Have you thought about shifter rods yet? I think that data and my (oh so clever) way of calculating the length you need might be necessary. What do you think? There's an almost out of this world chance that this weekend the gearbox gets fitted and then your chance of data from me is gone.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#68
11-23-2013, 07:22 AM
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Yeah, that would also be useful. If you can still do that, I would love it. Thanks very much for your help!
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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#69
03-27-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#70
03-27-2014, 12:57 PM
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Part number for reseal kit problems
I was asked by someone here about the ELRING reseal kit I bought. It seems that I bought one of the last ones out there...
Alternative numbers can be found here => MERCEDES 124 260 00 68 (1242600068) Gasket Set, manual transmission Mercedes p/n = 124 260 00 68 Elring p/n = 597.899 Trucktec = 02.43.131 (never heard of them before!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#71
03-27-2014, 01:02 PM
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124 260 9201
Is the good Mercedes number. List is $94. I believe 0068 superseeds to that number.
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i
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#72
03-27-2014, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
MERCEDES 124 260 9201 (1242609201) Gasket Set, manual transmission Complicated process this part number hunting... ...three times the price for the dealer part though - I'm glad I got that elring kit => doesn't help you though. Making your own gaskets could be a possibility - though special attention should be made to their thicknesses - as the wrong thickness will mess up the clearances for the shafts (but these of course can be adjusted with the expensive shims from the dealer! <= vicious circle)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#73
03-27-2014, 01:27 PM
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When I rebuilt an iron case 230G transmission I made my own gaskets, it seems to be leak free a year later.
I can get ~30% off list, when I redo my 200TD trans I may just have to pony up for the OEM gasket set. I need to buy the synchros before the price goes up on them too.
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i
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#74
04-10-2014, 05:16 AM
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Awesome work. Excellent DIY.
__________________
 EURO 04 M3 Current Mods: Eibach Pro Kit & AntiRoll Bar kit, INTRAVEE II + Alpine KCA-420i, CF Roundel Kit, Monochrome M3 Badges, Depo's, EAS Screen protector for OEM 16:9 display, H & R 12mm & 10mm spacers, VCSL Bumper + Race Lip, VCSL CF Boot, VCSL CF Rear Diffusor, DIETZ TV in Motion, Streamline, Oem exhaust + 80mm tips, Z8 Starter Button, Lamin-X, GM SMG Paddles, RE RTABs/RSMs/RCAs, 0-60 Steering, OEM CSL interior, K&N/ECIS intake
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#75
04-13-2014, 12:45 PM
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Help for fitting the shifter linkages
Just in case you get to fit your refurbished gearbox and you don't end up using it as a bit of modern art...
...the connections at the gearbox are  Haynes says the connections at the shifter are  I have a different shifter that has reverse back and to the left and the 5th gear is top and to the right  If you have one like this the connections shown in Haynes won't work - these do though 
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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