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  #16  
Old 07-20-2013, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
So far, looks like those in dry climates are more inclined to use the jack points.
Sorry here's a vote from a mildly moist part of Europe =>

I always use my jack points. That's what they are there for.

I think it is a very bad idea to "modify" your car so they are non operational. Whilst you as driver and owner may know about your modification it only takes one chap in the tyre shop or one breakdown assistance bloke or someone trying to steal your wheels to make a mess of your car.

So I say use 'em - and if you loose 'em - fix 'em

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  #17  
Old 07-20-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
What is "rust"?
Go away. We don't like you.
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  #18  
Old 07-20-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Sorry here's a vote from a mildly moist part of Europe =>

I always use my jack points. That's what they are there for.
I thought your car was in bits and up on blocks
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2013, 05:26 PM
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I did have a rear jack-point rip out on a very rusty Fintail one time.

So far, despite varying amounts of rust on my W123s, all the jack-points have been solid enough to use - even on the left front of my Euro TD, where I had to fabricate a large patch panel for the surrounding rocker. Of course, I'd never work under there without a jack-stand.
With the worst one on my TD, the inner box-section reinforcment for the jack-tube is still very solid.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #20  
Old 07-20-2013, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I thought your car was in bits and up on blocks
One of them is - and guess where the axle stands have been positioned?

The other one actually needs some help in that area too - so that's something I'll be doing on my Sunday afternoon...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #21  
Old 07-20-2013, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
So far, despite varying amounts of rust on my W123s, all the jack-points have been solid enough to use - even on the left front of my Euro TD, where I had to fabricate a large patch panel for the surrounding rocker.
Mark, I agree that the jack points are solid even when the rocker metal has rusted. I am sure that even without the rocker metal, the jack points would be strong enough if the tubes haven't rusted out. It seems that the fronts are designed to transfer load from the tube to the A-Pillar. (Mine was fully apart a little while ago ;( ) Not sure how the rear points transfer load, but presumably they too transfer load to the rear door pillar.

I have this idea for a mechanically attached patch that would be screwed or riveted in place and have an indent that picks up the load from the tube. I have this idea that I might have seen something like that, but maybe not?

PS: Seems this not a new idea
So far no sign of any commercial jack point patch panels.
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Last edited by Graham; 07-20-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-20-2013, 07:55 PM
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Graham: Jack points do not rely on the rocker panel just as you observe. I took my rocker panels completely off once and the car jacked up just fine on the tubes. Jack stands are always a must, whether the jack tubes are good or not as the car can go forward off the jack in some cases.

I would like to see a small square patch with the proper round opening and the indent; say a weld in piece. Keep working on it!
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  #23  
Old 07-20-2013, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
Mark, I agree that the jack points are solid even when the rocker metal has rusted. I am sure that even without the rocker metal, the jack points would be strong enough if the tubes haven't rusted out. It seems that the fronts are designed to transfer load from the tube to the A-Pillar. (Mine was fully apart a little while ago ;( ) Not sure how the rear points transfer load, but presumably they too transfer load to the rear door pillar.

I have this idea for a mechanically attached patch that would be screwed or riveted in place and have an indent that picks up the load from the tube. I have this idea that I might have seen something like that, but maybe not?

PS: Seems this not a new idea
So far no sign of any commercial jack point patch panels.
On my TD, I found big blobs of filler hiding a gaping jagged rust-hole next to the left front jack-point. I cleaned it all out, trimmed the rough edges, and sprayed some prservative inside the rocker. Then I riveted some gavanised sheet over the whole area and used a ball-peen hammer to outline the jack-tube so I could accurately cut the hole.
Finally, I covered the whole repair with spray undercoat.
Except for the lack of indenting around the jack-hole, the repair isn't too noticeable. Since then, I've jacked it numerous times to make repairs to the brakes and shifter without any problems.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2013, 03:05 AM
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Yes, I always use mine when using the factory jack. I cover the jack holes with the 201 jack holes. The W123 never came with them but use these same jack holes fine (the jacks are pretty much the same size).

For lifting the car using a floor jack, I use a large 2 x 4 block of wood between the jack cup and vehicle chassis, about the same location as the jack points. The differential itself or the frame behind the oil pan works too with the block of wood on a floor jack.

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  #25  
Old 07-21-2013, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
Yes, I always use mine when using the factory jack. I cover the jack holes with the 201 jack holes. The W123 never came with them but use these same jack holes fine (the jacks are pretty much the same size).
I use these plugs, supposedly like you said the w123 never came with them but I found mine on a w123 at pnp awhile ago...in the thread the photo came from, he says they are off a w124...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/258179-w123-w124-jack-hole-plugs.html
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  #26  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:33 AM
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Early W201's and W124's use the same plugs.

The W201's came out earlier than the W124, hence my reference to the W201.
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  #27  
Old 07-21-2013, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
Early W201's and W124's use the same plugs.

The W201's came out earlier than the W124, hence my reference to the W201.
You know the part #?

I have never used the factory jack for any of my W123's. I always use a floor jack and I don't have a good spare for either so if I have a flat the car is getting towed.
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  #28  
Old 07-21-2013, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
I use these plugs, supposedly like you said the w123 never came with them but I found mine on a w123 at pnp awhile ago...in the thread the photo came from, he says they are off a w124...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/258179-w123-w124-jack-hole-plugs.html
That's my post. I have a few plugs available for sale if anyone wants. Should fit 123, early 124, 201, etc.

Jeremy
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:24 AM
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On my W123s, I often use the factory jack, as I find it's usually easier and more effective to lift the car and set it on jack-stands than the small trolley jack I have.
I use a spare Mercedes jack, that I keep with some of my tools.

A large trolley-jack might work better (in fact, I have one at my parent's home in Virginia Baech)
but it can be a real hassle wrestling with something that big and heavy, especially in confined spaces.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #30  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorblue92 View Post
You know the part #?

I have never used the factory jack for any of my W123's. I always use a floor jack and I don't have a good spare for either so if I have a flat the car is getting towed.
2018990008

1269971886 Rubber bumper/plug for jack point holes W123, W124, W201

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