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-   -   99 e300 td sluggish with major turbo lag (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/341680-99-e300-td-sluggish-major-turbo-lag.html)

pnolet 07-24-2013 11:04 PM

99 e300 td sluggish with major turbo lag
 
Hi all,

I have my 99 e300 diesel and I had chasers fuel problem for over a year. The lines in the tank were pittedand leaking at certain spots in the tank. This quieted it down a lot. However I believe this problem is fuel related. There is a fuel leak coming from the plate on the side of the IP also there are bubbles in the lines after the fuel filter. I have new genuine mb filters brand new and all new lines from the tank to the pre filter all new. And new gas tank as well. Recently the clamps that hold the muffler together right before the cat busted apart and bent the clamp. Possible too much pressure? I'm curious As to what diagnostic route I should be goin on? Anything I should check? Thanks my symptom is extreme power loss under heavy acceleration until the turbo kicks In way late and then it will go. It so sluggish it's almost dangerous when first taking off

EdzBenz 07-25-2013 12:01 PM

Have you checked your vaccuum lines going to the turbo? A leaking vaccuum line can cause your turbo to engage later in the RPM band.

pnolet 07-25-2013 02:25 PM

Vacuum lines are good. Could it be a bad turbo. I'm working on a Volvo xc90 twon turbo at work And the turbo leaks so much it smokes like hell. Mine doesn't smoke that much but how can I check/test the turbo?

TMAllison 07-25-2013 03:01 PM

Check transducer and wastegate, then for a plugged/restricted cat.

KarTek 07-25-2013 06:26 PM

One problem that this model car has experienced is a plugged cat. This will slow the turbo by quite a bit. The only way I know to test the theory is to remove the V band clamp so there's a gap between the turbo exit and the pipe an drive it that way for a test run.

Yes it'll be kind of loud and soot up under the hood a little but if it goes like a scalded dog, there's your answer.

Also need to eliminate all the bubbles.

pnolet 07-25-2013 10:27 PM

The clamps at the cat busted it off so it already had that gap, so to further prove that I took the cat back exhaust off including cat. Still no change. How do I check the transducer or waste gate and where are they? Thanks

pnolet 07-25-2013 10:29 PM

Can the ip itself leak? Not the delivery valves, sov or lines but the actual pump itself? I Ask because it leaks a thin black fluid around there looks like a mixture of oil and fuel smells like it too. But I still can't figure that out. Also the line from pre filter to fuel thermostat leaks down and is empty immediately after turning the car off. So it has to be leaking down somewhere. What about a faulty ip what are this symptoms?

KarTek 07-25-2013 10:31 PM

There are 2 transducers, one for the turbo and one for EGR. They are identical so you can swap them for testing. The turbo transducer is located near the turbo inlet and the EGR transducer is located on the left side of the car, near the shock/spring tower.

pnolet 07-25-2013 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek (Post 3182189)
There are 2 transducers, one for the turbo and one for EGR. They are identical so you can swap them for testing. The turbo transducer is located near the turbo inlet and the EGR transducer is located on the left side of the car, near the shock/spring tower.

The black valve with the vacuum lines to it and the turbo? Or is that something else?

KarTek 07-25-2013 10:46 PM

Black valve, 3 vacuum lines and an electrical connector. One line is a vent, one goes to the wastegate and the other to the vacuum source.

pnolet 07-25-2013 11:27 PM

Ill try tomorrow and post results

winmutt 07-26-2013 07:34 AM

Hey Evan do later manuals have a test procedure for the transducers? I've thought about using them to control vents.

TMAllison 07-26-2013 02:45 PM

FYI - The prefilter fuel line draining back to the fuel thermo is normal. Ignore it.

pnolet 07-26-2013 04:09 PM

Ok is there anything else I can check for the source of the sluggish acceleration

KarTek 07-26-2013 06:07 PM

If you have access to a scan gauge, you can connect it to verify the boost levels and the MAP sensor operation. Conversely, you can also "T" a standard pressure gauge into the MAP sensor feed to measure boost.

Also, when the car is idling, remove the vacuum line on the waste gate and connect a vacuum gauge to it to verify there is 100% vacuum present. As a test, you can also connect the vacuum supply line going to the transducer directly to the waste gate so you get 100% boost all the time. If you regain your performance doing this, you can take a closer look at the transducer.

Rolf,

The transducers are variable vacuum devices controlled by a PCM signal from the ECU. If you can do with a "on/off" control rather than variable one, you might do well with an EGR purge or "switchover" valve.


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