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  #16  
Old 07-25-2013, 06:17 PM
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I can't find a distance specified of the surface of the timing device relative to the surface of the block in the FSM (may be there's a book worm out there who has seen it?). If I remember I'll try and measure the distance on my engine tomorrow. I could be barking up the wrong tree about this though...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #17  
Old 07-25-2013, 08:10 PM
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Thank you! Please don't go out of your way to find it, it's a moot point now.
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2013, 10:28 PM
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More redundant stuff since you already have an Electric Vacuum Pump.

I ordered the below double Diaphragm Vacuum Pump from an eBay Seller. It is made in Germany.
Ford subcontracted a small Electric Delivery Truck from another Company that went Bankrupt. These VPs are surplus from that.
I don't know if there will ever be a repair Kit available for it unless I can identify the company who made the VP.
This VP was made from the onset to be a Brake Booster VP.

I figured the Diaphragm Pump is not going to over heat like the Hella vane type Vacuum Pump did. I was hoping it would come with a Vacuum Shutoff Switch Built in but there is none.
Don't know when I will get around to trying it. The eBay Seller
Ford Continental Electric Vacuum Pump 12VDC Ford A426C | eBay

Here is the article on the electric Truck:
Azure Dynamics Bankrupt, Built Ford Transit Connect Electric

The parts with the Red Line on them are actually Mounting Bolts you cannot see the other 2 but there is a total of 4 of them.
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OM617 vacuum pump disabling-vacuum-pump-front-view.jpg   OM617 vacuum pump disabling-vacuum-pump-side-view.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 07-26-2013, 11:13 AM
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One last monkey wrench:
With a manual transmission,
a choke cable shutoff,
and an oversized master cylinder to replace the booster

Why would you need vacuum?
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  #20  
Old 07-26-2013, 11:34 AM
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Personally I like having the Power Brakes and the Auto trans. Also so My Wife can drive the Car.

Without some Trial and Error how would you find the correct sized Manual Master Cylinder unless there is a Manual Model out there to get one from as in the OP's Toyota.
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  #21  
Old 07-26-2013, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Personally I like having the Power Brakes and the Auto trans. Also so My Wife can drive the Car.

Without some Trial and Error how would you find the correct sized Manual Master Cylinder unless there is a Manual Model out there to get one from as in the OP's Toyota.
It's going to take some fabrication, but I imagine a large MC from a big truck would do the truck, or a "racing" MC with a 1"+ bore
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  #22  
Old 07-26-2013, 08:47 PM
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By my understanding, simply increasing the bore of the MC would not increase braking power at the wheels, only make it so I have to push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same line pressure. A smaller bore would make achieving the same line pressure with less pedal effort possible, with a longer stroke to move enough volume. I would have to increase the size of the entire braking system to achieve the same stopping power without power assist.
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  #23  
Old 07-26-2013, 09:17 PM
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I did a little searching in the past. I recall that 93-99 VW Jetta, Golf, & Cabrio have the electric vacuum pump for power brakes. I don't know if all models or just diesels. They also have a pump in the trunk for door locks. I bought one of the later real cheap on ebay for possible backup use on my 300D's. I was able to re-wire it to run as we need, but a lot of work, and I did something to fail that (forgot), so now it runs continuously. I now use it for AC work (pumps down to ~25" Hg after tweaking). The power brake one should have simpler controls and be more robust, but they do cost more. The $110 surplus Ford one looks interesting.
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2013, 04:29 AM
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Brake booster information that might help

The W123 FSM has a bit of data for checking the brake booster - this might help to give an indication of the pressures that should be achieved at the calipers

Chapter 43-325

The vacuum pressure for these tests should be 0.75 to 0.8 bar

Attached Thumbnails
OM617 vacuum pump disabling-w123-brake-booster-pressures-fitted-diesel-engines.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #25  
Old 07-27-2013, 11:24 AM
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Thank you Stretch, that's good data.
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  #26  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:14 PM
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another easy way to skin the cat is a 4wd 98 up chevy pickup power steering pump/ vacuum pump combo they are everywhere.
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  #27  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
another easy way to skin the cat is a 4wd 98 up chevy pickup power steering pump/ vacuum pump combo they are everywhere.
Is it elec motor driven?
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  #28  
Old 07-27-2013, 11:10 PM
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Electric vacuum pump arrived today, still waiting on the switch. I got nothing done on the beast today, was at the Great Oregon Steam Up from 7am until a few minutes ago. Time to get some steaks on the grill and get a glass of iced tea.
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  #29  
Old 07-28-2013, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
another easy way to skin the cat is a 4wd 98 up chevy pickup power steering pump/ vacuum pump combo they are everywhere.
Are you talking about the hydroboost system?
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  #30  
Old 07-28-2013, 11:22 PM
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Drove it to the fuel station. They're both closed, and the truck won't restart - battery dead. Good times!

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