Oh that's rough. Push start her, ATF etc. can be used as an emergency fuel. DO NOT burn engine oil as fuel it can mess up your injectors(ask me how I know)

The MB auto transmissions can be push started, just get it rolling and slap it into 1. Be careful not to exceed 25-30mph if you end up tow starting it.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Got her jumped and got her home and on the battery charger. Got a water leak and an oil leak. To be continued.

It's got the stock Yota 5 speed behind it, push start would have been completely doable.

As an aside, it stops OK without power brakes. I got used to it pretty fast and just about ate steering wheel when I got in my MR2 afterwards.

I suggest you modify the MR2 to suit the truck then it's all good!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hah! That would be the "easy" way!

I'm going to have to upgrade the alternator, the stock 55 amp MBZ alt just isn't keeping up. After powering all the electrical stuff on this truck there just isn't enough capacity left for charging, especially on short trips. And I haven't put the vacuum pump on it yet.

Think it's time I start a swap thread, and only start new ones on specific issues if needed.

Vacuum pump and vacuum switch arrived, got it all mounted up and plumbed in, still have wiring to do. Going to order a fuse block and some relays and relay sockets that will snap together to make a continuous relay bank to keep things clean. Have several other circuits to add that will require relays and independent fusing, and the fuse block and relay bank will keep things clean.

Anxious to have power brakes back, darned difficult to heel-toe when the brake pedal requires a LOT of force.

Is your vacuum switch adjustable to set the vacuum high and low.
I have the vane pump, just need a switch and in she goes.
I thought I would keep the piston pump as a spare and install a blanking plate over the hole. Is that possible or does the two lobe cam protrude out too far?

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

From what I have read, it's easiest to take a vacuum pump, gut it and use it as a cover. A flat plate won't work.
My question is are there any detriments to running without a load on the driving mechanism.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

how do you have the motor shut off rigged up?

I have a MB check valve with a single vac line to run the shutoff, followed immediately by a GM check valve in my vac line going to the booster

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anddddddddd BACK FROMMMMM the DEADDDD

any hints on gutting the one to deactivate the pump?

is there any parts inside the block one should remove.. in particular the parts that like to fail and take out the engine after parts grenade?

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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro

The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels

You can pull out the pivot shaft and remove the roller. Forgot the details but did that once. Vaguely recall tapping out a cross-pin which secures the shaft. Then use the shell as just a cover. I found a hub cover from a big truck which "should fit", with matching bolt pattern. Just need to file clearance for one guide rail pivot shafts which the cover overlaps (look at your vac pump flange). Have one, but never tried it and forgot PN. Only reason was to gain a little space.

Some people here thought the timing shaft (whatever its called) requires the axial force from the vac pump spring to keep it in position and not move around axially. I recall one who did a pump-gut and rigged a spring and roller to apply a slight load. Seems overkill to me and unlikely the designers relied on a force from the vac pump, but just relating that concern. Adds risk of your home-rigged stuff falling apart and sliding into the timing chain to do bad things.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans