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  #211  
Old 12-03-2013, 11:04 PM
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Sounds good! Salem is less than half an hour from Dayton, PM inbound. Cadin is in this area too.

I did run the shutoff tube into the cab. Still looks funny.

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  #212  
Old 12-04-2013, 02:07 AM
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Yeah, I'm right up here across the river from Portland in Vancouver. Though my build is certainly a different kind of beast (FJ80/R151f) with different challenges.

'617YOTA: I would have figured you would have put a syringe on the stop vacuum line in the cab by now!
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  #213  
Old 12-04-2013, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
...

I have to disagree with you. Toyota designed the Prius perfectly. It wasn't designed to get good economy(people truly interested in economy rarely make a car payment), or to save the world, or to make Jesus love the baby whales, or any of that. It was designed to make money for Toyota. And it does so, by the truck load.

...
I get the point about making money but it isn't a good bit of engineering in my opinion. My point is that there are many people here who would probably have engineered a much nicer vehicle given the resources of Toyota. I'm impressed by engineering not by marketing.
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  #214  
Old 12-04-2013, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadin View Post
Yeah, I'm right up here across the river from Portland in Vancouver. Though my build is certainly a different kind of beast (FJ80/R151f) with different challenges.

'617YOTA: I would have figured you would have put a syringe on the stop vacuum line in the cab by now!
Well my sister lives in Vancouver as well and I plan on stopping by to see her as well. I would love to yank the 4.5L out of my 80 (has some sort of valve tick anyway) and throw in a 603/606 to the stock A442. Hopefully I can meet up with you all.

Glad you are not gaving to get out of every time. The syringe is a good idea. I'd let you know what I have done but I haven't gotten that far yet.
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  #215  
Old 12-04-2013, 06:32 PM
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Right on, if you are looking into the 603/606 you may want to call Luke at 4x4 Labs to pick his brain. The red '80 on his website has a 603 I believe...
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  #216  
Old 12-04-2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cadin View Post
Right on, if you are looking into the 603/606 you may want to call Luke at 4x4 Labs to pick his brain. The red '80 on his website has a 603 I believe...
Haha I promise I will stop hijacking your thread after this but glad we are all Toyota fans as well. I've seen a OM606 with a 603 pump in a 60 mated up to a H42 Trans and the adapter was made by Luke and that was a couple of years go now. Not sure how much more difficult it is to make one for the auto but I believe the A442 is only partially electronically controlled and it is seperate from the engine controls.

I just got the word from my old man you all are supposed to get snow. If you cant get your heater chord in time I think there is some weird fella in Lebanon that would likely have one as I think he runs a junk yard for the cars. In addition even a small uninsulated shed or enclosure with a couple of light bulbs hanging down on the sides of the engine with the hood shut will do a lot more than you think. My favorite old trick to help her start on cold mornings though was putting a hair blow dryer in the intake and using a pair of pliers on the passenger side fender to bypass the starter and she would crank right up once the warm air made into the cylinders. If you get bored and have time do a video...it is always fun to hear these things start up in the cold. Kinda sick in a way as it is HORRIBLE for the engine in terms of wear but fun none the less.
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  #217  
Old 12-04-2013, 11:26 PM
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No worries on the thread hijack.

I personally was not impressed by Luke at 4X4 Labs or his customer service. If I do another swap, I will definitely NOT be using his kit and will do what I can to avoid sending him money or business in the future.

I did get my block heater cord today but didn't get it installed. Tried for a few minutes and couldn't get it to plug into the block heater. I also had other things to take care of after work while the day light held.

Supposed to get down to 15F tonight. Was 19F last night and started fine. While I glow a lot longer when it's cold out, the engine cranks over the same and has (so far!) started on the first cylinder that comes up on compression, no matter if it's 85F or 19F.

I'll try and get video tomorrow morning.
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  #218  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:27 AM
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I've had no problems with the cold as well, she has fired up first go here! I'm also running a 5-40 syn. (Sometimes I pulse the plugs and let them heat up the cylinders.)

Now I just think about gelling, are you running anything with your fuel?

(I have read the same thing about the trans, I looked into it while researching my swap, but the ~30% power consumption (loss) of the almighty (bus trans) A442 is too much to ask for this OM617, and no 603/606's were very abundant, so I went with the R151f.)

Last edited by Cadin; 12-05-2013 at 02:39 AM.
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  #219  
Old 12-05-2013, 03:07 PM
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Totally spaced the video this morning.

13 degrees, she cranked right up. Grumbled a bit but stayed lit. I'm running Power Service Arctic Formula anti gel. My glow plug controller is a manually actuated Ford starter solenoid, I don't have to let it glow through cycles, I just turn it on and let it run for however long I feel like. Leaving it on for a few seconds after it first starts in this cold weather really seems to help the idle smooth out quickly.

Come to think of it, just about every Ford owner I've known with a vehicle using an external solenoid has carried a spare solenoid with them and the tools to change them out. I've even seen a spare bolted to the fender next to the in-use one. Kind of like the Chrysler electronic ignition boxes. This thing ain't starting without glow plugs. I'll need to either add a spare or switch to a different relay.
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  #220  
Old 12-05-2013, 11:25 PM
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Yeah, I am using the ford starter solenoid idea as well (the back-up idea is a good one; of course you could always do it manually if you needed too!), I just run it for ~20 sec wait 5 and 20 again.

I'm sure it really does nothing; but keeping them on at idle I have noticed the same thing that you have and it does really smooth it out. I'm sending my injectors out for rebuild, so we will see how the Monarchs compare...
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  #221  
Old 12-06-2013, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadin View Post
Yeah, I am using the ford starter solenoid idea as well (the back-up idea is a good one; of course you could always do it manually if you needed too!), I just run it for ~20 sec wait 5 and 20 again.

I'm sure it really does nothing; but keeping them on at idle I have noticed the same thing that you have and it does really smooth it out. I'm sending my injectors out for rebuild, so we will see how the Monarchs compare...
There is no doubt that leaving them on makes for a smoother idle. Besides the newer cars that don't even use a glow until it is below 52 (depending on the year and MFG), a lot of older engines use the controller to continue to run the glow plugs until the engine warms up. On my 97 F-250 I could actually hear the change on the alternator and view the change in RPM. On my 02 7.3L not as much. On our 06 TDI and 08 Blutec not at all. My understanding is though you have light off (not sure of tech term) the cylinder walls act a heat sink and rapidly cool the air being compressed (used to heat it up) in the cylinders. Combine that with cold fuel that may not be atomizing correctly and that provides for a very difficult idle. I have gone back multiple times on weater to use a manual switch. In the end I believe I will use the stock Mercedes switch as I KNOW eventually I will forget to turn them off on my own.
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  #222  
Old 12-06-2013, 04:23 PM
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I'm not sure what '617Yota is running, but my switch is momentary so I have to hold it down. I'll bet you could supplement your current your system with one and have both auto and momentary...
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  #223  
Old 12-06-2013, 09:58 PM
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My glow plug switch is a toggle, lets me do other stuff while the glow plugs are heating. The switch is between the steering wheel and the driver's door, I open my door and flip the switch on before I get in the truck. Get in, close the door, put on my seatbelt, most of the time that's enough glow time to get her to crank up.

Supposed to be 11 degrees tonight, and I'll be driving the little lady to work tomorrow morning. We didn't get much snow but the roads are slick and the idiots who can't drive in snow are out in force. Bunch of cinder blocks in the back of the truck for weight, carried chains and such, truck did fine.

I'm having trouble getting the block heater cord to plug into the block heater. The cord is a Kat's cord mentioned elsewhere on this site - don't have the exact number at the moment. I don't like cold starting my diesel like this, she cranks up faithfully but she ain't happy about it and neither am I. Any tips?
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  #224  
Old 12-07-2013, 02:28 AM
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You do have a timer relay fitted to the glow plugs don't you?

Truck looks pretty Mad Max = nice

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #225  
Old 12-07-2013, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
You do have a timer relay fitted to the glow plugs don't you?

Truck looks pretty Mad Max = nice
Thank you! I get odd looks everywhere I go.

I am the glow plug timer. They stay on until I turn them off.

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