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  #16  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:21 AM
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Thanks for the feedback.

Exhaust is 2.25" with no muffler and dumps in front of the rear wheels.

There are LOTS of metal filings and grindings from all the fabrication needed for the conversion still in the area. I wouldn't feel comfortable using just a chunk of window screen as a filter. I'll probably find a cone filter that I can put straight on the turbo and try that.

Last edited by OM617YOTA; 08-04-2013 at 12:29 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2013, 12:00 PM
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Thanks all! I'm at work right now, will answer more in-depth when I get time.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2013, 04:04 PM
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Got a little time now, lunch break.

The surge tank is fed by the stock in-tank Toyota fuel pump, with a straight pass through and return to the tank. The MBZ pump pulls fuel from that surge tank. The surge tank holds a little over a pint of fuel, so even if the engine's fuel consumption was to outrun the in-tank pump's delivery(doubtful, designed to feed a higher HP gas motor), it would still have over a pint of fuel to use before having an issue. By then I would long-since be off the throttle. I'd be VERY surprised if this is a restriction. Eventual plan is to eliminate the surge tank, pull the in-tank pump out of the fuel tank, and convert to the same system MBZ used. Eliminate un-needed complication, power consumption, and allow the engine to run without electrical power, once started.

Simpler, that syringe shutoff idea is GENIUS. I'll get the stuff for that on the way home from work today and bet I can have my shutoff working in five minutes. I'd still like to wire in a vacuum solenoid and key shutoff, but that will have to wait for the electric vacuum pump for the brakes.

Those donuts are awesome, but holy cow that's pricey. I'll have a look around the scrap metal yard and see what I can come up with before going that route. The "weld" on my sharp angle piece is actually a series of mig tacks, and I'm glad you think it looks good! Took me a long time w/ many burn throughs. I'm not a welder.
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:56 PM
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Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
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My shut-off solenoid is a Peter Paul (yep, that's the company and they're a good one) PN 54KK8XGM. It a 12 VDC normally OPEN so if it fails it shuts the engine off. In my case, the rear-mounted power shut off switch (you've probably seen them on race cars) has to make the engine stop - the sanctioning body requires it.

I plan to use the engine vacuum pump but I have an electric pump from a late-model S-10/Blazer if the engine pump doesn't do the job.

Options!

Dan
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  #20  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:10 PM
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Not my idea for the syringe shutoff, I stole that from someone on here. Pretty slick eh?

For an electric vac shutoff the merc climate control relays can be setup to be naturally open or closed. Gasser EGR solenoids are another way to do it, although those are normally open and would take some playing with to make them normally open(if you can at all)

For the filter-turbo connection anything works (assuming it's properly sized). Radiator hose, pvc pipe, etc. Have you considered the stock 180 paired with some PVC pipe?

Found one of the filter threads, the style in post #11 is my favorite:
Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather
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Last edited by Simpler=Better; 08-02-2013 at 10:23 PM.
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  #21  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:29 PM
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Thanks for the input, folks. I have the stock MBZ vacuum solenoid, as well as a couple spares from the Yota emissions junk and ADD system. I'll install a vacuum shutoff that turns the engine off with the key after I get the electric vacuum pump for the brake booster installed and running.
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  #22  
Old 08-03-2013, 12:46 PM
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Forgot to mention in my post that I'll install a vacuum reservoir for the shut off solenoid to work with when the power goes off. It'll have a one-way valve on the vacuum input line from the pump so it has vacuum with the engine off. All this stuff is available at the Pick 'n Pull.

Dan
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  #23  
Old 08-04-2013, 04:42 PM
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Got the vacuum pump and vacuum switch mounted. Still need to connect up vacuum lines and finish wiring. It's topping 85 degrees in the shade and supposed to add another ten degrees in the next three hours, so I'm done with outside stuff for today.
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My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread-1375642592734.jpg   My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread-1375642755429.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2013, 07:10 PM
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Cobra Head Elbow 2.31" ID X 2.5"ID: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps

Solution to my intake flow issues. I wish I had known about cobra head plumbing fittings when I started this project, that angled bend sure took a long time to build!
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2013, 11:43 PM
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I have power brakes!

Pump gets warm but not hot. With the help of a vacuum switch and a relay, it pumps down to a set level and shuts off, instead of running continuously. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet as the engine currently has no water pump, but the pedal feels much better than it did before. The pump kicks back on as soon as I push the brake pedal, and changes tone every time I pump the pedal. If I pump 3-4 times continuously, I can feel the vacuum-boost lessen. I don't expect to be pumping it while driving, but I think I'll be adding a vacuum reservoir anyway.

I was going to add an indicator light in the cab to tell me when the pump was on, but by golly I'll HEAR that thing running.

Electric lift pump, electric cooling fan, electric vacuum pump. That poor 55amp alternator ain't going to cut it, and it's only going to get worse when winter hits and I'm running HVAC van and exterior lights. Anyone got an upgrade laying around for cheap? I know the Saab alternator bolts in, may have to go that route from the junkyard. Funds are getting low!

Edit: Whoops, forgot the pic. I'll be tidying up wiring, zip ties are a wonderful thing. The relay is on the fender wall, I figured everyone here has seen one of those and how they're wired up.
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  #26  
Old 08-07-2013, 08:45 AM
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awesome! interesting solution, also thanks for the cobra link, I need a couple elbows for my project as well. Right now I have some pretty poor quality cheap chain store stuff mounted up
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
I have power brakes!

Pump gets warm but not hot. With the help of a vacuum switch and a relay, it pumps down to a set level and shuts off, instead of running continuously. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet as the engine currently has no water pump, but the pedal feels much better than it did before. The pump kicks back on as soon as I push the brake pedal, and changes tone every time I pump the pedal. If I pump 3-4 times continuously, I can feel the vacuum-boost lessen. I don't expect to be pumping it while driving, but I think I'll be adding a vacuum reservoir anyway.

I was going to add an indicator light in the cab to tell me when the pump was on, but by golly I'll HEAR that thing running.

Electric lift pump, electric cooling fan, electric vacuum pump. That poor 55amp alternator ain't going to cut it, and it's only going to get worse when winter hits and I'm running HVAC van and exterior lights. Anyone got an upgrade laying around for cheap? I know the Saab alternator bolts in, may have to go that route from the junkyard. Funds are getting low!

Edit: Whoops, forgot the pic. I'll be tidying up wiring, zip ties are a wonderful thing. The relay is on the fender wall, I figured everyone here has seen one of those and how they're wired up.

Glad to hear it

The Bosch AL129X bolts in, was around $120 new on the bay last I checked. Pretty much any alternator that has similar mounting can be modified to work, you can possibly get a nice 200A unit from a big domestic truck and hack up/ weld your mount to make it fit.
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2013, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
Got the vacuum pump and vacuum switch mounted. Still need to connect up vacuum lines and finish wiring. It's topping 85 degrees in the shade and supposed to add another ten degrees in the next three hours, so I'm done with outside stuff for today.
You Orgonians sure can`t stand anything over 65 deg, over that and you melt. My daughter lives up there and is complaining.

I`ll trade our Fog for some of your heat. 55deg at 10am on the porch, BRRRRR.


Your project is coming along, looks good.


Charlie
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2013, 02:39 PM
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Thanks!

Guilty as charged on the heat. I'd be completely happy if the temperature never topped 65. On the plus side, 55 deg is T-shirt weather for us.

Last edited by OM617YOTA; 08-07-2013 at 04:58 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2013, 10:02 PM
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Got the new water pump installed and test drove her, goes down the road just fine.

Highlights:

Despite what the gas station dudes said before, the gasoline and diesel fuel filler nozzles on their pumps ARE different sizes. I'll have to modify the fuel filler on the Yota. My apologies to the guys at Shell for the mess.

Oil leak has returned. When I got home, I looked under the truck. Looked like rear main seal! I went holy jebus, not that! Poked around a little more, valve cover is leaking from the rear, dripping down the back of the motor. I've had the valve cover off several times, never replaced the gasket. Read on the forums here that I should replace it, even if it looks good, because once removed it won't seal again even if it looks good, so I DID buy a new one. I just didn't install it...because the other one looked good. Again, my apologies to the guys at Shell for the mess.

Diesel was less per gallon than premium gasoline, which is what both my other cars require.

Once the engine cools down I'm going to go take a peek at the cooling system. If it's still full then I'll be taking it to work tomorrow. I SHOULD go out there and replace that valve cover gasket so I won't be marking my territory at work. This is a German engine, Japanese truck. Nothing English about it.
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