I don't know what's going on with your VW powered Volvo, I'm not familiar with that engine. I've only owned redblocks and white blocks.

Federal and state law does not require a cetane rating be posted on diesel fuel pumps. That doesn't change the fact that CARB specifies minimum 53 cetane and maximum 520 micron lubricity rating, as your link points out. The latest test data I've seen from CARB said on average fuel sampled in the state was 55.8 cetane.
http://www.arb.ca.gov/fuels/lcfs/20130731arbwaterboardjointstatementrd.pdf

For better or worse, CARB strictly enforces the quality of all fuels sold in the state. Since CARB is free to make its own rule about fuels sold in the state, CA is essentially an island when it comes to refined fuels and it makes everything more expensive, especially gasoline.

Chevron Pays CARB Fine | Transport Topics Online | Trucking, Freight Transportation and Logistics News
Since CARB diesel cetane is already very high, the only thing to worry about in this state is lubricity. BOSCH pointed this out in this presentation to CARB in 2003. Bosch was pushing to include a 460 micron lubricity standard to the upcoming ULSD CARB rules but they lost that battle.
http://www.arb.ca.gov/fuels/gasoline/meeting/2003/022003bosch.pdf
Feredal law requires that all ULSD sold in the US since 2006 is either minimum 47 or 48 cetane depending on which refinery it came from. 40 cetane fuel hasn't been sold in this country for almost a decade.
Certified Labs

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

Just going by the sticker on the pump.

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83 SD

84 CD

The sticker on that pump is out of date.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

I also add a little 2 cycle motor oil (outboard oil from Wal Mart) to the fuel to help lub the fuel pump. Only when I change the main fuel filter do I fill the filter with Power Service cleaner. Runs smoothly after 26 years.

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Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback

I've contacted Exxon, no response yet. But it's the weekend.

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83 SD

84 CD

What happened is My Fuel Injection Pump Rear Seal was leaking.

Instead only replacing the Seal; and, that can be done without taking the Fuel Injection Pump apart; I decided to take the Fuel Injection Pump apart to replace 2 little Rubber Cushions that are in side.

I felt if the Seal was bad those Cushions should be hard.

Well I was wrong about that.

I for got to take some measurements of some of the internal Parts that had adjustments and now if I am just a little bit heavy on the Pedal I can get a good cloud of Black Smoke.

Also unfortunate is that all of the Fuel Injection Pump disassembly threads and pics I have been able to find on the Internet are for the VW Rabbit.
The VW Rabbit IP is almost the same with a major exception that there is a part on Mine that has an adjustment and on the VW Pump it is just a long sort of Guide Pin with no adjustment.

So there is the adjustment of that Guide Pin that I did not measure
The direction of a piece inside of the Fuel Injection Pump that can go on 2 ways but is only supposed to go on one way the I did not note.
And, the position of a lever on the side of the Fuel Injection Pump that has to do with excessive Fuel for starting that I did not mark.

Other wise it runs good.

I have only seen one Volvo Diesel at the Junk Yard since 1992 and there was only 2 other one running around in the Long Beach area and one of them was the one I saw at the Junk Yard.

So I had been driving the Car since 1992. The Fuel Injection Pump issue happened about 4 years ago.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the info, folks.

Sounds like the occasional shot of ATF or similar in the fuel filter when changed may be a good idea for maintenance, and as long as lubricity is good then a constant diet of additives is not necessary.

I fill the filter with ATF when I change it, then I know the filter is being filled from a clean container.

I add 1oz of two cycle oil to each gallon of fuel on fill up. I don`t trust that the diesel we buy has enough or any lubrisity to it. so far adding it hasn`t hurt anything. I buy it by the gallon at Wallyworld.

I remember Forcedinduction use to argue that the fuel didn`t need anything else added, it was a waste of money.
Now he is arguing on some other forum till he gets banned.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

B100 Biodiesel here in Houston, 100% as long as the weather permits. Makes a world of difference over petro diesel with any additive.

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1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k
- Daily Duty
1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k
- "Recommended for competition events only"

I use a lubricate,either MMO,2 stroke oil, or one pint vegetable oil to a tank of fuel.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Oregon diesel is B5. I should be good on lubricity.

I usually use nothing. If I remember it in the winter I will add some diesel conditioner now and again. If I suspect bacteria I treat with biocide.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.