1981 240d help
 

Is there anyway to turn the fuel up?
Thoughts on straight pipe no muffler

The throttle stop on the ip if I Turn it all the way down will I have mor throttle ?

Yes, but not real easy. Have you ever tuned an injection pump before?

My suggestion for a start would be to check fuel pressure at the IP and get that right. Check timing and give it a degree or two more then factory specs. Make sure throttle pedal does indeed move the throttle to it's stop. I would not at this point change the throttle stop. Many things to set inside the ip first.

Straight pipe, lots of noise little if any gain in power.

pc's can be reamed and will have a very nice effect. Look in the performance section of this website and you will find a lot about turning up the ip, and reaming pc's.

of course the ultimate is adding a turbo, but need to have basics done right first.

Last but not least is to put an egt gauge on if you do any performance mods. High egt's will ruin the engine if you do not moniter your temps.

Are you anywhere close to Virginia?

Yeah, ensuring the timing chain is right is your first move.

Don't add a turbo.

I live in Georgia. I have zero experience with Diesel engines
I'm ASE mechanic when it comes to gassers but I know how diesel works and these cars are really simple. How ever I have a oil pressure problem I need to fix before anything
I changed the oil today even dropped sump pan to clean all the gunk out
Put 5 qt s of delo 15/40 and one bottle of Lucus
When I first start the car oil pressure jumps to 3 after I hit the gas it will drop to 1/2 or 0 !!!! Ugh what the heck. I can't afford I new oil pump rite now if that the problem. Of anyone has a used one for sale let me k ow

Kind of uncommon symptom for these engines. The oil pump on the five and six cylinder diesel engines are chain driven. Your four cylinder engine has a shaft driven system with bevel gears in there.

I would not rush into an oil pump purchase quite yet. Not saying it is not the oil pump either. Just I might want to investigate it a little further first.

Also even though the oil pressure gauge is operated with engine oil pressure directly. (mechanical system) I would also want another direct reading from the oil pressure point on the engine.

Any major dents on the oil pan that might have gotten the oil pickup? Could even be too much sludge on the pickup screen. You did take off the pan and remove some sludge it seems. Did you clean the pickup screen and tube? I am not a working mechanic so take what I mention with a grain of salt.

Also I changed the two little o rings on the bottom of the filter tube.
And have a oil leak at the oil cooler line lower line leaking from crimp.

I would change those hoses NOW? If the crimp is leaking, that is a warning she will most likely cause a catastrophic loss of engine oil, then your other problems will look insignificant.

I had a lower one that was wet around the crimp. then it started to drip, and by the time I got home, she was spraying oil. I had a ways to drive, knowing what I know now, when they are wet, "Do it now".

Charlie

Fix the leaking oil cooler line....

Drain all your oil, replace it with pure 15-40w.....use no additives, no miracle in a can product, no lucas, no engine cleaners....just plain oil....

Now I would remove the drivers knee panel and inspect the gauge, it may be leaking....I have changed my oil a few times, and have had a high pressure reading and then accelerating...it would bounce to 0....it was because there was air in the line....if your gauge is leaking....then when you turn the engine off, it will suck air....

Be sure to add the proper amount of oil.

You have a 616.

I agree it sounds like either a gauge problem, or restricted oil pickup.

oh yes and add a turbo...... ok just kidding you have plenty to fix as it is. Always get an engine in tip top shape before any power mods.

After you get the engine adjusted and running properly, and you still want to turn up the fuel etc... here is a good thread explaining how the IP and fuel system works.

Injection Pump fuel adjustment for the MW and M pumps, pyrometer install - Mercedes Forum - Mercedes Benz Enthusiast Forums


Charlie

The other option is to replace the 4-cyl NA OM616 with the 5-cyl turbo OM617 from the early 80s 300D or 300SD.

Forum member greazzer did this to my old 240D and coupled with a manual transmission, that car is now a rocket.

If your an ASE mechanic, then you know the sounds of a motor with low oil pressure. I'd suspect the guage. Should be 1-2 bar at idle / start up and then rise to 3 bar when driving.

This is forced injections stuff. Lots of controversy as well as bad feelings.....

Quick note do not remove rack limiter. Will not give any more then just maxed out. Better ways to get more power. I have tried both ways.