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  #1  
Old 08-04-2013, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 80
Windows Stopped Working - Not Switches

Hey all,

After sitting for about 7 years, finally got the 81 300SD on the road. All of the windows would roll down (front passenger is off track but tries to roll down) until recently. I used the front driverside and rear passenger the most. After parking it for a few hours, both of those windows stopped working.

I tested the switch by plugging in the rear driver's side cable to the front and it rolled down without a problem.

It's very strange that both of the windows that I used more frequently quit on me all of a sudden (or maybe it's not?). If the switches are good, should I be looking into replacing the motors or has something gone wrong with the wiring?

Thanks for your input.

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  #2  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:13 AM
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Since both failed at the same time, look for a common fuse that failed. There is a cover on the firewall inside the engine compartment. Slightly different in an SD than my 300D.
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  #3  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:57 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Find fuse "b" in the fusebox and replace it. Clean the brass contact points.
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,702
Correct, the fuses cover diagonal opposites on these cars.

Fuse b operates driver front and passenger rear
Fuse a operates passenger front and driver rear

Inspect the fuses carefully, sometimes they develop hair line cracks and don't pass even though they look good.

And make sure the fuses are ceramic and copper. If you need some click on the parts link above, this site sells the right kind. It is good practice to re-fuse the entire box as preventative maintenance if the fuses have any significant age on them.

When cleaning the brass points on the fuse block use no abrasives. Use Brasso or Tarn-x on a q-tip and be sure to remove all residue with a clean q-tip dampened with water and dry thoroughly. If you abrade the contact points you will remove the plating and be left with a worse problem in a few months.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)
2008 ML320 CDI (Older sonís DD)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
----------
gone but living on
1983 240D (body to greazzer, engine to t walgamuth)

Last edited by jay_bob; 08-05-2013 at 09:49 AM. Reason: updated fuse codes for 1st gen 126
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post

Fuse g operates driver front and passenger rear
Fuse h operates passenger front and driver rear
AFAIK, the 126 has no "g" or "h" fuses.
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
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You are right, I saw his user name 300SD90 and thought that he had a 90 SD which is like the 124 electrically. The 81 SD is like a 123 electrically and they only had the a-d fuses.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)
2008 ML320 CDI (Older sonís DD)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
----------
gone but living on
1983 240D (body to greazzer, engine to t walgamuth)
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:40 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
You are right, I saw his user name 300SD90 and thought that he had a 90 SD which is like the 124 electrically. The 81 SD is like a 123 electrically and they only had the a-d fuses.
You might want to delete post #4 to prevent confusion.
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 80
Didn't even think it'd be a fuse problem since I figured there would be one fuse for the windows or a fuse for the front and back, not diagonally. I'll definitely check that out.

Speaking of fuses, dash lights do not come on and fuse 15 (I think) keeps blowing every time I put one in. It's shorting out somewhere obviously. Any known issues that I should look for first?
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  #9  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:10 PM
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If Your Fuse Chart is in the Lid of the Fuse Box what all does that Fuse Cover?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:20 PM
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Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
F15 provides power to:

Trunk Light
Power Seats
Warning System
Courtesy Lights
Automatic Antenna
Anti-Theft Alarm

The most suspicious is the automatic antenna. The grommet deteriates and water runs down into the works. Try unplugging it and see if there is a change.

The failed dash lights is either the bulbs or the rheostat. Sometimes just working the rheostat back and forth a little will clear the slight corrosion and get them to come on.
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2013, 05:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
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Okay, I also have jumping gauges. The brake light is on but is intermittent. Most of the time the fuel gauge is at "R" and the oil pressure and temp gauges are erratic.

Loose wiring? Corrosion? I'm wondering if this is part of the dash light issue...
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2013, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greater Metropolitan Beaverdam VA
Posts: 2,877
All of those functions

that are erratic find ground on a buss behind the instrument panel. Pull your gauge cluster and it is right there in front of you. Try clip leading the ground block to a good chassis ground point and see if it clears up most of your electrical issues. If it does, then simply imrove the quality of that ground block and you will be good to go.

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