I ordered a lower oil cooler line and the brand listed was Trucktec. It was priced in the mid $50 range and I was a bit skeptical but decided to chance it. It came in the mail today and I noticed that on both metal collars, is stamped "Made in Germany." I feel I should be surprised. The hose used is Conti-15x4 AEM/AEMK. Thoughts? Should I have any concerns?

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Trucktec is a German aftermarket parts supplier. I think they are a fairly recent arrival in North America.

When I first saw the name somewhere I googled and found they have a spotty reputation, put it that way -- however not 100 pct junk peddlars like Uro.

However, given recent threads, many parts suppliers that formerly had sterling reps are now getting spotty in terms of what's shipping in their boxes....

Edit: so what I meant overall, but now see I didn't make clear, is that I would not worry about the lines you bought.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Look at your motor mounts. I posted pics of new & old. Also, the engine shock mounts are likely shot. I'll be trying alternative repair once my stuff gets here.

Installation wasn't bad. Just relax & the top hose will come out without cutting as some have posted. DieselGiant has basic directions which cuts down on the experimenting for those that haven't done this particular task. (I do have the radiator out of the way because of other things but doubt it plays a part.

Sorry to hear that Tructec may not be ququality. I don't want to do the job again on this car. My other SD needs hoses also.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

You can always go with aircraft quality braided stainless hoses. You'll need to have -10AN male fittings brazed on your hard lines and drill and tap your oil cooler for a 1/2NPT fitting to attach a 1/2NPT to -10AN 90 degree fitting, but then you're set. The hose fittings are reusable so if the hose should happen to fail, just get a new hose (about $10 a foot) put your fittings on it and screw it in. You'll never have to mess with the oil filter end again (or raising the engine and taking off the motor mounts just to change the lines)



The stainless braid also offers some protection should a fan belt let loose.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Plenty of Oil Cooler Hose options:
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm still not convinced that I need to raise the engine to get the lines out. I guess I will find out...

I am thinking of buying another 300SD and if I do, I will retrofit the old hoses off my current car to use a replaceable rubber hose.

Mach4, can I just cut the barb off the end of the metal and solder on the AN fitting? If so, I can probably do that myself. Do you have any links to the correct fittings and hose that I could order online? I am thinking I will just use the stock end fitting on the oil cooler side. I'm not too keen on drilling and tapping my oil cooler.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

That was my first thought, and it would work, I felt that the tight 90 provided a stronger connection with less possibility of failure. A spare oil cooler cost $14 so it was a cheap experiment that worked amazingly well. I've got over 25000 miles on the conversion so I think it's pretty well proven itself.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

AN fittings and hose are available almost anywhere. A good place to start would be eBay. (Just be careful with your search terms - for example searching for "-10 AN hose fittings" would give you all AN hose fittings except -10 fittings.

Most of the fittings used are still the legacy red-blue fittings which look good on aircraft and race cars, but I think detract on our MBs. Nickel, black and silver are better options I think.

Other sources are the online speed shops, buggy shops and even aircraft shops (Aircraft Spruce and Wicks). In my area there are at least a half-dozen places to get the fittings locally. I've even seen some of the smaller fittings in the local Pep Boys.

Here's a video that shows how easy it is to assemble a hose using reusable AN fittings - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeeflgGlenY

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Did you have to use any specific solder for the fitting? I'm thinking regular lead/tin or maybe metalwork solder.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

I don't think soldering is a good idea. You need to braze.

These lines are under pressure and get quite hot. If you solder you run the risk of the lines heating to the point of softening the solder and causing leaks.

And if you're not sure of the difference, really its: welding is hotter than brazing which is hotter than soldering. Temperature is the main difference.

I'm going the same route with the AN fittings and I'm taking the lines over to a welding shop later on this week. Or if you know anyone in the Air Conditioning business or plumbing, they could probably help you out with some brazing work.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I had all my fittings brazed by a radiator and A/C shop. I don't have torches and felt that it was money well spent to have these done properly. The same shop did my oil fittings as well as my A/C fittings. It's my undersanding that silver solder is what should be used if you go that route, but not positive.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

You can get low temp Silver Solder that melts at like 425 F but that is not as good as the Silver Solder that is used on Refrigeration setups or Brass Brazing.

Some Silver Solder will work with Aluminum but not the Brass Braze.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Something tells me that silver solder is not cheap...

Well, I have a ways to go before I even start getting things together for that project.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge