not enough oxygen
 

so i just moved to Colorado and now live at 7980 ft ( used to live by the ocean )**** update 1982 300cd om617 turbo**** on the trip out it ran worse and worse the higher we went starting harder and smoking more, then refused to run. did a lot of reading and im going to do all filters,and try checking chain stretch and drip timing, already did the valve adjustment ( almost all were tight) and started removing everything that doesnt make it run. i dont feel the need for ac or cruise control pretty much anything, but my main question for this tread is , what tricks or tuning have you diesel guru's found works good for high altitude.

What model are we talking about?

My turbocharged 300D handles altitude pretty well until you get it over 10,000 feet. My non-turbo 240D made it over 8,000 foot passes, but was down on power. I never got either car up high enough to not start, and I've never done anything special for high altitude, but I only live at 4,700 feet, and seldom go any higher than Mt. Rose Summit (a little under 9,000).

What year and model car?

When I got up here which I think is 5000ft....I had a lot of issues....my car wouldn't start, it was due to the battery, starter, cables and glow plugs.....when you come to high altitude, you have to make sure everything is tip top condition. If your valves were tight, then I would suggest adjusting them again....I am going out side to do my third adjust since I have been here and its only been 7 months...I am lucky to keep 55mph on a step hill....right now I have been getting down to 40....so I know my valves are tight...

You don't say what kind of car you've got, but since you're describing symptoms that would most likely be evident on a N/A engine I'll assume that for the time being. At 8000' you'll automatically have a power loss of about 25%. If you're putting out 100hp at sea level you'll be down to 75hp at 8000'.

Since the air is a lot thinner, during start you'll have less vacuum available to pull air into the engine so you'll have less air to compress and therefore generate less heat to start the engine. Good glow plugs will be essential.

On top of a N/A injector pump is a pressure compensator - kind of like the ALDA on a turbocharged engine. The purpose is to turn down the fueling at altitude. Since you're smoking badly, it might be that this is not working and you're overfuelling the engine.

On the last road trip, I went to start the car after a stopover in ABQ (about 6000msl) and it was hard starting and ran rough for just a bit. I was worried at first, then remembered the altitude.

Anything you can do e.g. valves, timing, filters etc to help the engine run better will help, but you're still at 8000'.

A/C can take power, but the cruise control doesn't have any effect.

The best thing for high altitude driving is a turbocharger or supercharger. It won't help it start any better, but you'll be able to maintain almost full power to about 10,000. I don't get full boost until 2200 rpm under load.

oh dam, didnt even seen i left out the model. its a 1982 300cd om617 turbo

it has 300,000 on it now and alot of things were not up keep. but im going through them one by one. im thinking it was a combination of high altitude and a needed tune up. but doing the tune up was wondering if there would be better specs for setting everything back to for high altitude rather than factory specs

and as far ask glow plugs i reamed the holes put new plugs in and a manual override

it use to have a love craft system ( which got ripped out) and putting back factory for now till a proper system can be built

and was thinking of a oil filter relocate ( since im going to be messing with the IP) does any one still make those plates

Banks Power | Nitrous Oxide & the Diesel

It's a thought. On a more practical level I'd suggest adding a turbo to your motor - which may include intercooler, EGT sensor and gauges etc. There's also making sure the engine is in tip top shape as previously mentioned.

I'd leave the oil filter alone. Going with a relocate system will open up a lot of opportunity for failure.

Since it's apparently been run with WVO that could be the source of most of your problems. First thing I'd suggest would be to pull a compression check. Well, ok, not first, but right after doing a careful valve adjustment. If you've got low compression, that would be cause for lots of problems. If the compression turns out to be low, do a soak for a week or so using MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) Squirt a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder and come back in a week. (Spin the engine for a few seconds to blow the oil out before putting injectors back in to avoid any possibility of hydraulic lock) While you've got the injectors out, have them pop tested and balanced - well, since they've apparently had WVO, just get new Monarks and have them balanced. Also consider doing a diesel purge to try to clean out all the WVO residue you can from the IP.

As long as you're tearing into things, might as well pull the tank screen and get that cleaned up too.

Will look in to a mmo soak sounds good, have to get a compression gauge but just contacted greazzer for a rebuild and balance on the injectors

To do a diesel purge the motor has to be running correct?

Try removing the ALDA and see how it does.

That is correct.

I am really against wvo use, unless you really know how to purge the system before shut down and start up.....I would also think that running wvo is what is causing your issues....wvo produces a lot of carbon, my engine had so much carbon and gunk in it...that I was always hoping to find diamonds under the tail pipe and under the hood looked like a grease dumpster....I would also think, it wouldn't be wise to go back to wvo at such high altitude...

82 300CD has a Turbo engine.

Charlie

look up banjo bolt cleaning.

the tubing that sends pressure from the intake to the alda, for proper fuel compensation with turbo pressure, needs to be clean.
removing the alda will result in a lot of smoke off the line, but it will improve power. it'll also waste fuel.

After the Banjo Bolt is Cleaned check the Boost Pressure you are getting.

You man Need to adjust the Tension on your Waste Gate Spring to bring the Boost Pressure up if you are not making good pressure.

I have been wondering if You are also having Fuel Supply issues due to an old Fuel Supply/Lift Pump, Fuel Pressure Relief/Over Flow Valve, Fuel Tank Vent issues.
If you can scrounge up the 5mm O-ring Fastlane used to sell a Valve Kit for the Fuel Supply Pump. But, that kit lacks the little O-ring.
Info in the DIY section.

ForceInduction lives somewhere in that State. He is the Moderator over on the Diesel Discussions - Mercedes Forum - Mercedes Benz Enthusiast Forums Forum if you need answers to some specific questions.